Rca ctc-5h

[old_tv_nut]

The asymmetry of the pure red is really odd. Did you do a thorough degaussing both from the front of the tube and the back (in case any of the mounting hardware is magnetized)?

If you do degauss it again, retract the edge magnets first, so that you don't bake in an opposite field in the tube.

Regarding the dynamic convergence, I found that it is critical to get the right spacing of the neck hardware (convergence coils and purity rings) - unfortunately, you may not be able to see the location of the convergence pole pieces if the internal dag covers them, and the service info doesn't give you any measurements of the proper spacing, so then you need to experiment, making a first guess based on the illustrations in the manual.

[etype2]

I’m probably talking out my butt, but have you examined the magnets thenselves? Ive learned they can break and cause bad things to happen.

[old_tv_nut]

Looking better all the time.

[etype2]

Keep at it. Good progress.

BTW, I worked for a law firm on Court House Square “downtown” Elkhorn. My wife worked for a Judge in the Courthouse.

[dieseljeep]

I just acquired a CTC-5 super model from the HFH Restore. They're starting to sell items that seem to be so-called Antiques.
The back was hanging partially off so I looked inside to see if it's complete.
I moved it closer to a power source and removed the 5U4's to see the CRT heaters light, as I couldn't see any white around the getters.
Hopefully, the CRT has some life in it, as it was replaced at one time with an RCA replacement.
The cabinet is a Masonite table model and a little rough.

[EdKozk2]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

I just acquired a CTC-5 super model from the HFH Restore. They're starting to sell items that seem to be so-called Antiques.
The back was hanging partially off so I looked inside to see if it's complete.
I moved it closer to a power source and removed the 5U4's to see the CRT heaters light, as I couldn't see any white around the getters.
Hopefully, the CRT has some life in it, as it was replaced at one time with an RCA replacement.
The cabinet is a Masonite table model and a little rough.

Hope your crt is still usable. Dave if you do decide to recap the set, I found it easier to remove each circuit board. That way you don't have to reach over the whole chassis. Maybe you can start a thread on your progress. Do you know the chassis number of your find ?
Ed

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

I just acquired a CTC-5 super model from the HFH Restore. They're starting to sell items that seem to be so-called Antiques.
The back was hanging partially off so I looked inside to see if it's complete.
I moved it closer to a power source and removed the 5U4's to see the CRT heaters light, as I couldn't see any white around the getters.
Hopefully, the CRT has some life in it, as it was replaced at one time with an RCA replacement.
The cabinet is a Masonite table model and a little rough.

Dave, if your CTC5 has a good 21AXP22 in it I'd be interested in trading you a good 21FBP22 and a wad of cash...

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Dave, if your CTC5 has a good 21AXP22 in it I'd be interested in trading you a good 21FBP22 and a wad of cash...

I probably wont get to it until the middle of the week.
I'm interested to see if the jug is good. I don't remember seeing that light of a screen color. I always remember the screen color a darker green. Naturally, it has a safety glass.
More info later!

[EdKozk2]

[QUOTE=dieseljeep;3200012]I probably wont get to it until the middle of the week.
I'm interested to see if the jug is good. I don't remember seeing that light of a screen color. I always remember the screen color a darker green. Naturally, it has a safety glass.
More info later! [/QUOTE

The dud 21AXp22a I removed from my CTC5 had a much lighter screen, almost white color also. It was a Sylvania.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Dave, if your CTC5 has a good 21AXP22 in it I'd be interested in trading you a good 21FBP22 and a wad of cash...

The set is a CTC5A, built in the 3rd quarter of 1956.
I was mistaken about the CRT, it's original! It seems to check out very good.
PM me on this website and include a phone # where you can be reached and the best time to call.

[Electronic M]

PM sent.

[UberVacTuber]

I'm currently undertaking the same conversion. I have all the parts gathered based on the extremely helpful advice here.

One question, I need to bore a hole in the side of the plastic boot for the anode lead. based on the required orientation of the CRT and other items, the hole will be right along the rib on the 3 O'clock position. Did you guys have the same issue? Is it a problem at all?

Also, I was reading the part about keeping the CRT grounded through the plastic boot, as directly grounding the dag on the CRT with the boot on caused problems. Wouldn't that double up the capacitance for the HV (Through the glass envelope of the CRT, through the dag on surfaces, and then through the plastic)? I'm a bit confused on how that works.

[old_tv_nut]

Converting to a glass CRT but still using the plastic boot to hold it in place, right?

If you ground the dag and the boot, then the voltage is between the inside dag of the tube glass and the outside dag, so it's only that pair that makes a capacitor. It doesn't matter how many layers of grounded stuff you add on top of the grounded dag, since there is no voltage between those grounded layers.

[old_tv_nut]

By the way, I'm not reading back through all the posts, but I'm surprised that people use the boot from the metal tube to hold a glass tube, which has a more bulging shape than the 21AXP. IIRC, when I tried it, it seemed like it would force the deflection yoke back too far on the neck. When I converted mine (temporarily) to a glass tube, I adapted some hardware from a CTC-7 that had a metal framework that held the bell of the tube, by adding some extension threaded rods and hinges to attach to the bezel hardware and bend around the shape. I removed the boot and kept it for when I got a 21AXP, rather than drilling it or anything.

[UberVacTuber]

You can still get the yoke to fit properly. You just need to extend the slots for the yoke clamp screws and remove the ring inside the boot that prevents more forward travel.