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1940s Westinghouse AM/FM Radio Model H-1821
Hello everyone yesterday I picked up for $20 at a garage sale near me a 1940s vintage Westinghouse AM/FM Radio model H-1821 (which all the service literature such as Sam's and Rider's referred to it as an H-182, which is kind of weird when the back of my radio specifically says "Model H-1821").
It's a "Walnut" Bakelite cabinet and the unit has all miniature 7 and 9 pin tubes in it which I thought was kind of unusual for a radio from the mid to late 1940s, it also uses a 4 watt 120v nightlight bulb for the pilot light. I had to order a NOS Interlock cordset for the radio off ebay because the original cordset had worn through to bare wire at where the cordset attached to the back of the radio. The Radio is almost pristine minus a few paint splatters on the cabinet, of which most of it I was able to get off without harming the bakelite (there's still a couple of bigger paint splatters on the cabinet and tuner dial that I can't seem to get off as easily as the smaller splatters). Just out of curiosity, how rare is this set? I'm wondering becuse when I google this radio's model number nothing comes up in search results, not even anything in Radio Museum's website! Thanks for your help with this Radio. |
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#3
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Like I said Radio Museum's website doesn't have it in their records. |
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Do you have a chassis number? The Sams (#53-25 published in 1949) for model H-182 covers chassis numbers V-2128 and V-2128-1.
jr |
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The tube lineup is almost exactly like the Zenith 6 tube AM/FM radios from that time period. |
Audiokarma |
#6
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If you have Sams set 50 folder 22, it covers the model H-202 and H-204 (chassis V-2128-3) which is nearly the same radio but with a selenium rectifier.
jr |
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Have you tried injecting audio yet? That test divides the possible problems in half at least. Since it is a series string radio plug it into an isolation transformer or use a battery-powered signal source for injection.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
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No I haven't yet. I don't even know what I would use as a sound source to inject sound into the radio.
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Got a beater Walkman/CD/mp3 player? Got an isolation transformer to power the radio and some lousy AC powered audio source with a line out jack? Got an audio signal generator? Audio is audio.
There is a small chance you could fry any source device by touching it to high voltage...use something you don't care about or a test generator designed to take some abuse, or be extra careful in how you go about connecting it (dc blocking caps are not a bad idea).
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
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Also I tested the B+ voltage coming off of Pin 7 of the 35W4 rectifier tube and C2 (which is the first section of the power supply filter cap can), and according to the schematic it should measure 120v and I got about 130v, does that indicate anything problematic? |
Audiokarma |
#11
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Could also use the old touch a screwdriver to the grid of each tube, starting with the output tube, and isolate the problem this way based on the amplitude of the click and buzz noise the screwdriver makes.
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Anything within 30% on a voltage test is usually ok especially B+. Line voltage in the 60s and earlier was usually assumed to be 117V and nowadays it is assumed to be 124V.
Granted if it is high at 117V input it could mean a stage is not drawing it's fair share of current....like say for instance the audio output transformer is not passing B+ to the audio output plate... Another troubleshooting method is (assuming you have the manual and it lists the voltage at the pins of the tubes ) check the tube voltages and see if anything is too far off designed value.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#13
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Last edited by vortalexfan; 10-06-2019 at 10:14 PM. |
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