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#1
05-09-2016, 10:54 AM
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RCA 8PCS41 question
Does anyone know how this resistor mounts to the cabinet, spacers? bracket?
I know where it goes, I just don't know how. It can't go flush against the cabinet because there are wires coming out the bottom. 
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#2
05-09-2016, 02:28 PM
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I'll post a picture of mine tonight. That grey paint looks nice in close-up! Your distance picture in the other thread had me worried. Jas.
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#3
05-09-2016, 03:13 PM
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 If you can include some pictures of the wire routing that would be very helpful too. If I can get it all back together and working then I can keep an eye out for a better cabinet. There have been a couple on eBay but they were far away from me. Now if I could just remember where I put the mirror for the screen. 
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#4
05-09-2016, 10:54 PM
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Adding the 67 years of original dust is optional On each end, a wood screw first goes through a washer, then through the insulator on bleeder resistor, then a second washer, then a 3/8 inch spacer with a built in collar towards the cabinet. Do a trial assembly outside, and measure the protrusion to avoid accidentally penetrating the cabinet panel. Your 1948 8TCS41 is in a slightly different black perforated box than my 1949 8TCS41. One final thing, don't attach the skirt until you have set up all the adjustments. When you stick your hands inside that set to make the final adjustments, you want to see where you are poking your hands. The only wiring layout that I have is for the 1949 model and my chassis are in the basement and the cabinet is in the garage. The two differences I'm aware of are: One, you have the original projection barrel, and I think the shielded HV lead is dressed to the rear, and not in front of the barrel (as viewed from the back of the cabinet.) You also want to keep it away from the speaker. The other difference is the "Local/Remote" switch was standard on the 1949, but was an expensive extra on the 1948. I'm assuming that your 8TCS41 does not have the Local/Remote knob to the right of the channel selector, when viewed from the front. Hope this helps! James Last edited by earlyfilm; 05-09-2016 at 11:01 PM. Reason: Reworded sentence for clarity
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#5
05-09-2016, 11:20 PM
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Thank you, this helps a lot, so just some spacers under the resistor, I can find something that will work, I think it was already taken off when I got it so I don't have the original hardware.
The diagram is great, I realize now I should have installed the off/on switch before I put the chassis in, I don't recall where the Interlock switch is mounted either, but I assume it's in the location on the diagram. I'll have to get a light in there to find the mounting holes.
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#6
05-10-2016, 06:54 AM
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It just dawned on me that you did not use a factory schematic to rebuild your set. There is one ground connector that the Sam's schematic forgot to include! Connect both ends of the shield on the CRT anode lead to ground. This shield is your HV return! Do just prior to final install in the cabinet: Place the Sweep Chassis and Optical Barrel on the floor behind the TV cabinet and connect the HV leads (center wire and shield) on both ends. Then check for zero resistance between the Sweep chassis and the Optical Barrel (puncture the barrel paint to do this.) After installing the two units in the cabinet and before plugging the two other connectors into the barrel, repeat this test. Failure to do this can give you a very nasty bite if there is a bad connection here. James Last edited by earlyfilm; 05-10-2016 at 07:17 AM. Reason: Left out word "barrel"
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Linear Mode
