#16
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Ok, changed the 35v 220uf and now it looks like this:
Last edited by pac.attack76; 04-19-2024 at 09:19 AM. |
#17
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deflection has gotten better. you said it outside for awhile, now you can sub a cap underneath. just make sure its + to + and - to - until you find the bad one. Theirs a bad cap in there close.
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#18
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Yeah, the next cap in line is a 35v 1000uf. I have a 35v 1500uf. Ok to use?
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#19
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yes you can.
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#20
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Cool. Tomorrow's agenda👍
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Audiokarma |
#21
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Replaced the 35v 1000uf and here's how it looks:
Last edited by pac.attack76; 04-19-2024 at 09:18 AM. |
#22
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well after i looked the picture again that's not the vert section. coming from the yoke there should be 2 wires one yellow and one green. follow them down to the chassis that will be the vert section. same thing find the bad cap.
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#23
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At the yoke, I got two sets of wires. One set says yoke H which as brown and red. The other set is yoke V and it's brown and black.the brown and black run to the caps we changed. I do have a yellow and green but they come from the board on the gun.
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#24
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https://elektrotanya.com/rca_chassis...wnload.html#dl hey i found the service info. with thosehttps://elektrotanya.com/rca_chassis_ctc203_training_manual.pdf/download.html#dl sets the tuner ground did not have goo solder from the factory. that cause the e prom go bad, but first check the voltage on the vert side only see if what the reading is. plus do a ohms check on that side. i leaning towards bad vert chip. the e prom was just for a few chassis. the bread butter of shop. give that a try.
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#25
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Quote:
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Audiokarma |
#26
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I'm not good this multimeters except when using for home wiring etc. I took the board to a guy and showed him what u said. He said he can't check it because he doesn't have an oscilloscope etc. I have my meter but not sure of where to set it or where to test.
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#27
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i am going to be honest i don't you to get hurt. there's not much in the vert section. 90 percent is in the output chip. i hate to say the parts cannon, but you half deflection and the bottom has a nice picture, so do not give up. the tough dogs are more rewarding to fix. there's about 10 parts in the circuit. you replace the 3 caps and has the pulse from fbt. cap from the ic was replaced and the 3rd was to. that's the next thing other checking resistors and diode.
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#28
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Quote:
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#29
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check diode 14501 the resistors download the service menu a look at page 43 shows the whole section. it has to be the output replace that.
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#30
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Ok I found the cr14501 right next to the caps we replaced. I have trays full of new diodes. Is there a specific number or something I need to look for yo get a match?
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Audiokarma |
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