a real challange?

[Kevin Kuehn]

For starters don't go randomly tweaking all the IF's. I'm reviewing the alignment instructions from Sams. Do you have an rf signal generator that you can trust the frequency settings? And a high impedance DC voltmeter(I prefer a scope) to monitor the AGC voltage?

[Kevin Kuehn]

Following Sams, you basically want to adjust only A4 and A6 on the coil you replaced per directions below. If you don't have a reliable rf signal source I suggest substituting a test pattern on a DVD through a rf modulator into the tuner. Assuming everything else was close, I think you could get away with visually aligning A4, A6 for best picture. Since it's a replaced IF you don't have much to loose by only adjusting those two coils. If you do that make sure you have the tuner adjusted for best picture. Since the sound is split from the picture at the tuner, don't worry about best sound for the time being.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

For starters don't go randomly tweaking all the IF's. I'm reviewing the alignment instructions from Sams. Do you have an rf signal generator that you can trust the frequency settings? And a high impedance DC voltmeter(I prefer a scope) to monitor the AGC voltage?

all I have are DVMs, not sure if they count a high impedance, but for most settings, they are asking for highest / lowest DC point, so a o-scope set to DC would work as you mentioned,
I do not have a generator right now, but am looking at...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Signal-Gene...ry!78665!US!-1

[Kevin Kuehn]

Yes most modern DVM's are high enough impedance, but for myself it's much easier to watch an analog needle or scope trace moving than numbers flying by. Some DVM's even have a analog graph.

Your call if you want to wait until you have appropriate alignment equipment. My gut feeling is you could get your first IF stage visually better, understanding that you keep track of your starting points and you don't mess with any other coils. Generally it's not advised to adjust anything without having the correct alignment tools, although over the years we've been proven wrong when complete newbies pull off almost miraculous visual alignments. If you be patient I'm sure someone wiser than I will provide alternate suggestions.

Oh, forgot to ask, did you ever get your sound working?

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

Yes most modern DVM's are high enough impedance, but for myself it's much easier to watch an analog needle or scope trace moving than numbers flying by. Some DVM's even have a analog graph.

Your call if you want to wait until you have appropriate alignment equipment. My gut feeling is you could get your first IF stage visually better, understanding that you keep track of your starting points and you don't mess with any other coils. Generally it's not advised to adjust anything without having the correct alignment tools, although over the years we've been proven wrong when complete newbies pull off almost miraculous visual alignments. If you be patient I'm sure someone wiser than I will provide alternate suggestions.

Oh, forgot to ask, did you ever get your sound working?

Yes, sound works, but at this point, I have to choose to tune in for better sound or picture
https://imgur.com/ej7sfiL
https://imgur.com/gbsSKCO
https://imgur.com/1oDkIJe
how it looks with yolk NOT backwards..

the problem is with trying to do the 1st IF visual is, there is on adjustment that you can get to from top and the other only from the bottom...

but in order to hook up the CRT safely I need to lay the chassis down, cutting off access to the adjustments on the bottom...
https://imgur.com/lsyrjzp

I have no easy way to have the chassis on the side and have the CRT supported, mainly cause of the short leads to the yolk

[Yamamaya42]

that rf signal generator i mentioned will be here wed

now, do I just start with tweaking the replaced coil for the 1st IF, or should I be looking at ALL of them, since it's so old?
and it says use "isolated alignment screwdriver" but most if not all these adjustments are done by turning brass turn screws that move the iron cores, are they not already isolated?

[Kevin Kuehn]

I would only adjust what's known to be replaced, then reevaluate and proceed from there.

I'm not so sure that generator is going to serve you justice. I'm not familiar with it's circuitry, but unless you have a frequency counter it's hard to know how accurate something like that is.

It would be best to use a plastic blade screwdriver, or in a pinch you can sand a flat blade shape on the end of a wooden dowel.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

I would only adjust what's known to be replaced, then reevaluate and proceed from there.

I'm not so sure that generator is going to serve you justice. I'm not familiar with it's circuitry, but unless you have a frequency counter it's hard to know how accurate something like that is.

It would be best to use a plastic blade screwdriver, or in a pinch you can sand a flat blade shape on the end of a wooden dowel.

I have 2 "cheap" frequency counters that I used when I was fixing the color problems on my CTC-16LXL, I'm also going to take it work and hook it up to the digital Tek o-scope which has frequency counter in it which is calibrated and check it and my frequency counters against it, to make sure they are all correct.

[Kevin Kuehn]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

I have 2 "cheap" frequency counters that I used when I was fixing the color problems on my CTC-16LXL, I'm also going to take it work and hook it up to the digital Tek o-scope which has frequency counter in it which is calibrated and check it and my frequency counters against it, to make sure they are all correct.

Ahh, good plan. You could even mark the dial at the specific frequencies you'll need. One thing I've noticed with low cost AM generators is that they often have all kinds of harmonics, especially on the higher frequencies. In fact they often rely on harmonics to produce some those high bands. Sometimes a good counter can even have trouble sorting that all out.

[Yamamaya42]

YES, audio does work!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-40z8WvsQs
the WERRRRRRRR you hear in the background is my server, in which are 3 vantec tornado 80mm fans, that sound like a 747 when they start up! :p

[Kevin Kuehn]

It sounds nice and clear. One could always roll off some high end with a tone control hidden under the chassis, but for my hearing it sounds about right.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

It sounds nice and clear. One could always roll off some high end with a tone control hidden under the chassis, but for my hearing it sounds about right.

that's NOT the speaker that will go with it when done, obviously I just hooked up a tiny 3 inch 16 ohm speaker from an old color TV for test, I still have the 8 inch jensen speaker that was in the set that still seems to be good after 71 years

[Yamamaya42]

adjusting the 1st IF coil helped a bit, but I still have a lot of RF noise, the B+ getting to the tuner is very low, 99v where it should be 130v i need to replace resistors in the IF bias chain, cause they put the tuner at the END of that chain :/

[Kevin Kuehn]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

adjusting the 1st IF coil helped a bit, but I still have a lot of RF noise, the B+ getting to the tuner is very low, 99v where it should be 130v i need to replace resistors in the IF bias chain, cause they put the tuner at the END of that chain :/

Did you adjust the 1st IF per the alignment instructions using your new rf generator, or was that a best visual tweak attempt? You are still using the test CRT in that last video? It almost looks like outside interference.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

Did you adjust the 1st IF per the alignment instructions using your new rf generator, or was that a best visual tweak attempt? You are still using the test CRT in that last video? It almost looks like outside interference.

i tried but got no reaction via the trap A4 adjustment as per instructions , so i did a4 visual

i am still using the test CRT

I am starting to doubt this rf generator is viable, HOW exact does it have to be for this?

it could be outside interference, but i have the rf mod hooked up directly to the set, how sensitive can it be?