#91
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__________________
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#92
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I may have gotten a flaky or bad NOS 12GN7A video output tube, it's that, or there is something off, in that circuit, cause when I put the old tube back, the odd bit about no luminance when first turned on seems to have gone away, not sure, still waiting for the new 6lm8 and ordered yet another 12GN7A.
did have a bit of an accident today when trying the tube wiggle test, got my finger caught on the flange on the Drive control PCB, SHOCKING! http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0603231855.jpg I'm literally putting my blood sweat and tears into this set! It's not really THAT bad, it's gonna hurt later, but i have it sealed with Cyanoacrylate, cheap and easy something an ER room would charge $300+ to do.
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#93
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best result yet!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kIqNFMaDMAE Still have hum bar problem may have to cut out and replace C1 after all, and it still had the odd problem of no luminance when first turned on, but after fiddling with it pops on, not sure why it does this yet.
__________________
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#94
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the 6LM8 NOS it still on track to show up on Monday, will have to see if it fixes the strange brightness control problem.
still at a loss at what to do about C1, as replacing C2 & C3 did not get rid of the hum bars. but as mentioned, there is just no room I may try the unspeakable and do what many say not to do and tack in new caps in parallel to it, and hope it never shorts. http://suzaku.live-evil.org/magg1-cap.jpg R219 is very easy to reach and add a cap to, however the point of L56 and the bridge wont be so easy to reach, I have 82uf 500v caps now, but I think that will be a little too much to add in parallel to the existing C1, i was thinking of using 33uF 500v caps. sound reasonable?
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#95
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So, for lack of any better idea to try, I will order 2 of these to put in parallel to C1A & C1B this weekend, 661-EKXJ501ELL330MK4.
And hope it helps with the hum bars, if it does not, then there is something else causing it, Due to my unfortunate shocking adventure in protruding electrified edges this weekend, something I've not had the joy of experiencing since High School with a vicious Zenith hybrid, I won't be pulling the chassis for a while in this till it heals a bit. :/
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Audiokarma |
#96
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“R219 is very easy to reach and add a cap to, however the point of L56 and the bridge wont be so easy to reach”
Why not add the 82 uf caps downstream, at the circuits that are supplied by the 400 and 390 A sources? jr correction: C1 B is on the 270V source not the 390 A source. Last edited by jr_tech; 06-05-2023 at 03:14 PM. Reason: correction |
#97
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Quote:
yes, I do have access to R112, the only point that seems to be hooked to 400v can't find the 2nd that is mentioned on the distro chart, won't putting in the 82s w/o being able to reach in and unhook the old C1 cause undue stress on the diodes? or will the termistor dampen this? this was the only reason I was thinking of using 33uf.
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#98
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“won't putting in the 82s w/o being able to reach in and unhook the old C1 cause undue stress on the diodes?”
I suspect C1 sections are now effectively much less than 80 uf, and wouldn’t worry about the diodes. Also, thermistor should limit inrush current. jr |
#99
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Quote:
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0605232106a.jpg best pic so far! 6LM8 NOS did seem to help found why I was getting such a snowy pic I am missing a tuner bias! http://suzaku.live-evil.org/tuner111.jpg bias source 1 is not there, which powers the RF amp. problem with R240? in the mean time till i can pull the chassis, i took a 18 ohm resistor and hooked it to the B source 2, and it now has a clear pic.
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#100
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Quote:
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Audiokarma |
#101
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did not like it at all :P
__________________
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#102
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I found out why I lost B+ source #1 on the tuner.
when I was first poking around trying to reach in there to get to C1, I broke R240! http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0609232225.jpg it's just so dang packed in there! it USED to go to that orange wire, you can see C! way down in there. http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0609232243.jpg the fix! all tacked down with silicone
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#103
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seeing a little bit of color echo/ ringing to the right, mostly on reds.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0610231942.jpg can be seen on the V on their shirts. have new V20 color demod, and V22 killer burst amp ordered, these are also old original tubes.
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#104
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Replace that 6GH8 Video blanker tube. It's a common problem with dim pictures on this chassis and several relatives. It's not unusual to see these weak or bad. It makes a major difference in how the set functions. I always replaced weak/bad ones when I was a grunt technician in my younger years.
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#105
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Quote:
now I wanna try and clean up the color echo a bit.
__________________
=^-^= Yasashii yoru ni hitori utau uta. Asu wa kimi to utaou. Yume no tsubasa ni notte. いとおしい人のために |
Audiokarma |
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