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#1
12-06-2011, 02:12 PM
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RCA console
Found this on craigslist on my birthday !!!!
 Now sitting in my home !! OMG is it heavy  Does anyone know where to get prints for it ?? or can I just use a CTC-16 print for the TV chassis and hope for the best for the tuner and amp resto I think it is a 1964. 
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#2
12-06-2011, 02:25 PM
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The Sams index says the CTC-16 TV is covered in Set 736, Folder 4 (1965). It says the remote is covered in 736-4-A and the power amp chassis in 736-4-B.
You can buy the Sams manual direct from the company, http://www.samswebsite.com/ . If you live near a large library, ask them if they have Sams (mine does), in which case they'll make you a free copy. Phil Nelson
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#3
12-06-2011, 02:25 PM
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its just a CTC-16 comp separate from the tuner amp, they use a switch on the TV on off to switch the speakers from the CTC-16 audio out to the Stereo amp audio out and cut the power to the stereo when the TV is on.
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#4
12-06-2011, 02:28 PM
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nice combo!ctc16 chassis.cataract doesnt look like too much work.this is a great roundie and as i have said,the ctc 15 and 16s are the best electronically in my opinion.they produce a picture as good as most 70s era sets and they look great on the round screen.bruce in new york is the combo king.if you need anything,i have an excellent crt,working chassis,etc
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#6
12-06-2011, 03:15 PM
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I would recommend pulling the HOT and doing a slow startup with a variac, a metered one is best (amps and volts), start out at about 10vac and see what the current is (should be nil), ramp up slowly over time, checking the filter can for heat, monitor the B+ (there is a tp on the chroma board, should be marked with 390 or 410v iirc). I stop when I can get it to about 400v which is around 80vac. If all that goes well then pop in the HOT with a cathode break to check the current. Do a full power start, and keep an eye on the HOT current, if it goes over 220, just pull the plug. Start trouble shooting.
the Vert circuit is kinda fussy, the .0082 cap off the plate of the 6GF7 takes a real beating, so if you have issues with the vert check that one and the 50uf cap electro on the same board.
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#7
12-06-2011, 05:19 PM
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Don't forget to reflow the two ground stakes on the far right end of the chroma board. They exist in only one of two states: cracked or gonna crack soon.
That kills the heaters on the 6GU7s, launching the CRT beam current into avalanche. 
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#9
12-06-2011, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
 
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#12
12-06-2011, 08:43 PM
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I like it! :-) CTC-16's are pretty reliable once you get the bugs out!
__________________
"It's a mad mad mad mad world" !! http://www.youtube.com/user/mwstaton64?feature=mhee
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#13
12-06-2011, 09:04 PM
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It's listed in the 1964 catalogue
"The Brindis" Mark 10 Series HF-865 Delicately decorated Italian Procincial lowboy in selected hardwood solids with veneers of Antiqued Florentine Walnut or Antiqued Brushed White finish, 120 watts peak power (60 watts EIA), frequency response 45 to 20,000 cps. Two 12" Disphonic dui-cone speakers plus six 3 1/2" tweeters. Deluxe 9-tube FM/AM Radio with FM Stereo. Lighted phono compartment, FM Stereo indicator, tuning controls. Plug-in jack for stereo headphones (headphones optional extra). H-30 7/8" ; W-62 1/8" ; D-26 3/8".
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#15
12-09-2011, 10:31 AM
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i would like to thank everyone for their comments and suggestions !!
I did power it up slowly with the HOT un plugged seemed ok. Brought it up slowly with HOT back in the set as I got a hint of HV tick the degauss thermistors got hot and smoked. I pulled the chassis for closer inspection. The tuner and amp work but left channel is weak. (not worried about that now)
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