|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
Westinghouse H14T17 Restoration/Questions
Picked this Westinghouse 14 inch "portable" set from 57'
Few questions as I'm still new to the field of television repair (patience appreciated) There's a 4.7 ohm resistor placed right before the half wave rectifier that's gone bad. According to the datasheet, it should be 1/2w although it looks like a much higher wattage resistor. Is this a typo or am I reading this wrong? Datasheet and resistor(R82) http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...psiponvcba.jpg |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Looks to be in the 5-20w range. Word to the wise Sam's are full of typos, and even the good ones are not the last word... There were often many production changes throughout the life of a chassis... Sam's are usually a snapshot of one. Whether it was the first, last, best, or worst is not usually known.
When you restore a set it is best to go by the original parts instead of the schematic... granted if someone has worked on it before you and hacked up the wiring or made questionable replacements, or if the originals are damaged beyond identification the schematic is your best guide. That resistor is probably for current limiting the selenium rect. Resistance is not critical ( wattage will be though) and may be increased to compensate for the reduced voltage drop across the diode that you're presumaby replacing the selenium with. The preceding was a message from your friendly neighborhood insomniac TV restorer.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Also, the 4.7ohm resistor was before the selenium, could the value be added to the resistor or would it have to be placed after the new diode? |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
When using a Si diode, the selenium can be left in place but with the 'upstream' end disconnected so the selenium's out-of-circuit. |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Once I purchase new caps, I'll do a power test and see how it goes. Stay posted for updates and likewise, more questions. Thanks all, Zach |
Audiokarma |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
If the 4.7Ω 'fuse' resistor popped quickly enough, there's a chance you didn't kill the caps.
Good idea to replace at least the first one anyway, since it wouda took the hardest hit. Last edited by old_coot88; 05-07-2018 at 10:08 PM. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
That is a fusable resistor and they act like a slow blow fuse. You can sometimes find them on the auction site or replace with a fuse and a resistor. I would use a 10 watt resistor if it were mine.
Gregb |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
4.7 ohm 5 watt
Last edited by mrjukebox160; 05-05-2018 at 07:58 PM. |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
So I replaced the 4.7 ohm resistor with a 10watt resistor of the same value. Unfortunately it's blowing the resistor, any recommendations on how to isolate the problem?
|
#10
|
||||
|
||||
Blowing the resistor or just getting really hot? Hot would be normal, burning it out would probably indicate a shorted filter cap.
|
Audiokarma |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
It burned out, I checked the caps prior to putting them in, and now they've fried as well. So the real question is why did the filter caps burn out when they're brand new? Is this something I should troubleshoot further before putting in new caps?
|
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Did they smoke or get hot? |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
Are you getting any high voltage to the top of the 1X2? Just touch the tip of a (well insulated) ungrounded screwdriver to it and you should draw an arc.
I have this same set by the way, it's a Raymond Lowey design. |
#14
|
||||
|
||||
Yes, it does arc though not very far, and it's a fun set, good learning process for me
|
#15
|
||||
|
||||
So the brightness control that's supposed to be 100k ohms is now about 800k, any idea where to find a replacement as it is also connected to the vert. hold and vert. linearity pots?
|
Audiokarma |
|
|