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  #16  
Old 10-20-2009, 07:12 AM
Mick AV-8 Mick AV-8 is offline
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ALL RIGHT!!

I am starting to really follow along. Thanks man.
I think I haver located it here on the drawings...but not sure location in the chassis.
Are we talking about the other bigger electrolytic..since we are talking (+) sides of caps?
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  #17  
Old 10-20-2009, 11:46 AM
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jr_tech jr_tech is offline
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Yes, It is the one that you have indicated with the "smilie" face on the schematic. It would be an electrolytic, perhaps a metal can on the chassis, or perhaps similar to the the one the diodes are connected to, under the chassis. Perhaps if you took picture that shows more of the wiring, I can spot it. It could be the one that is right next to the first cap, but I can't tell from the picture what that cap is connected to.

jr
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  #18  
Old 10-20-2009, 03:55 PM
Mick AV-8 Mick AV-8 is offline
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Great.
I will take a few pictures and post them tonight.
thanks again
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  #19  
Old 10-20-2009, 08:56 PM
Mick AV-8 Mick AV-8 is offline
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few shots in search of next step.
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File Type: gif philco-2.gif (145.1 KB, 12 views)
File Type: gif philco3.gif (139.9 KB, 11 views)
File Type: gif philco4.gif (142.8 KB, 13 views)
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  #20  
Old 10-20-2009, 09:00 PM
Mick AV-8 Mick AV-8 is offline
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Also forgot to ask..as we looked at the diodes and resistors..there are two lines to two differents pins. One pin is cut off on the tube..so one of the diodes is not doing anything. But was it wired this way with the intent that the tube being used had all pins attached?
So should I use a tube that has all pins?
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  #21  
Old 10-20-2009, 09:30 PM
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Could you take a picture that shows the end of the capacitor that is above the one that the diodes are connected to? I think that it is C27 and C27A and the Red and Blue leads that are visible in the picture connect to it. If that is the case the red lead should measure about 180VDC to chassis ground and the blue lead about 100 VDC to chassis ground.

The fact that the pin is missing on the tube is of no consequence YET as the diodes are getting voltage from the blue wires attached to pins 2 and 3. You could pull the tube and still get the same voltage at the first cap (part #62 on the schematic).

jr
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  #22  
Old 10-20-2009, 10:20 PM
Mick AV-8 Mick AV-8 is offline
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hope this is what you mean
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  #23  
Old 10-20-2009, 11:02 PM
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Yes, it appears that the Red and Blue wires that go to the terminal strip come from the cap that is mounted in the same clamp as C62 (the cap that the diodes connect to). I can't quite see the end of the cap but there is nothing else in that corner of they must be connected to that cap. Measured to chassis ground, can you measure any DC voltage on the Red and Blue wires?

jr
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  #24  
Old 10-21-2009, 06:07 PM
Mick AV-8 Mick AV-8 is offline
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Measured the red wire to ground and it was 146 DC
Blue wire was 82 DC.
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  #25  
Old 10-21-2009, 06:22 PM
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Seems a little low, but at least there is voltage... But you hear NOTHING from the speaker?... no hum, no scratch when you turn the volume control? The Type 41 output tubes should both have DC voltage on pins 2 and 3 (measured to chassis ground)...anything there?

jr
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  #26  
Old 10-21-2009, 06:36 PM
Mick AV-8 Mick AV-8 is offline
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there is crackle ..slightest hum...especially when I put the probes on the wires I hear crackle from the speakers
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  #27  
Old 10-21-2009, 07:21 PM
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How about the voltages on the 2 audio output tubes... (The type 41s) These are 6 pin tubes and the pins are numbered with the two larger diameter pins as the "key"... the large pins are #1 & #6. These are the heater pins, and should have about 6.3 VAC between them. Pins 2 are the plates, and should have about 175VDC on them (on both tubes) measured to chassis ground. Pins 3 are G2 and each tube should be around 175 v as well. Pins 4 are the grids of each tube and should be negative voltage. You should hear a louder click in the speaker when you touch pins 2 with the probe, as the tube should amplify the signal.

jr
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  #28  
Old 10-21-2009, 09:07 PM
Mick AV-8 Mick AV-8 is offline
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I replaced all of the caps.
Except the electrolytics that are hooked up screwy to the diodes.
I can now get two local stations (only) with a weak crackly signal.
But that is a milestone..as I got nothing before.
Few weird things though:
Put in the 84 6Z4 with all the pins on it and it works better.
ground pin 4 and the tube lights up..but this does nothing to improve function or signal. so left that out and did not solder a wire to ground there.
On the antenna I hooked it up the way I took it apart and the speaker gets quite.
If I only hook the "G" wire I can get the weak signals..if I hook up the "A" antenna wire..I get no signal...weird huh?.....
So now wondering if I should replace the electrolytics and wire them the way it is with those diodes and resistors on 84 tube.
as the next step?
Look forward to any advices or comment.
Much appreciated.
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  #29  
Old 10-21-2009, 09:15 PM
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Just a question about the antenna. There are three wires, right?

John
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  #30  
Old 10-21-2009, 09:26 PM
Mick AV-8 Mick AV-8 is offline
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yeah 3 wires "A", "G", "S".
that how they were labeled with a marker...no signal unless I tought the "G" screw on the radio with a screw driver..or hook up the wire.

What do you think..should I now replace the electrolytics?
Think that could help?
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