Samsung Celebrity Tv with an odd power issue

[Sealtest]

Originally Posted by Jon A.

Good call, I've done my share of damage due to inexperience.

On my meter the jack for testing current draw is fused so nothing to worry about. I would rather avoid blowing the fuse though, those I need tend to be unavailable locally.

Keep your eye on the listings, 4 bills sounds like a pretty common gouging for one of those units. Fortunately I found a nice one for a decent price when I had some extra scratch come in, around 3 bills shipped in early 2015, and even then the cross-border shipping prices were pretty bad. I'll probably still make a test jig for my meter though as that measures current draw up to 10A.

So I just tested the tv and the amp draw is 1.5 amps roughly. When I saw that I smacked the emergency kill button on the variac to avoid damaging anything. I have had units cook in the past to hopefully this set is okay.


Even if a fuse is blown on a meter sometimes you have to get another one. I blew a fuse in my craftsman meter and that caused it to become wildly inaccurate with resistance tests and now on some setting instead of reading "0.00" it always gets a reading. Maybe that's just the nature of this particular meter when it gets damaged, but I have been warned about fuses protecting a unit too late.

I will certainly keep an eye out for one of those. I am trying to get a bunch of tv repair equipment Saturday from someone with bulk. Maybe a hidden gem will be in there. Dang I hope so.

[Sealtest]

Quick update here, there are already some bad parts.

On the heatsink there are two transistors, a 2sd555 and a STR30125. The 2sd555 is obviousally bad, and the STR30125 seems to have taken damage since the collector reads as 711 ohms, and the emitter reads as 2850ish ohms. From what I can tell both of these parts are part of the HV section.


So far I haven't found any other dead parts which is odd. It is also odd that the fuses did not blow. They are covered in heavy dust so it is obvious they have not been replaced.

[Jon A.]

Originally Posted by Sealtest

So I just tested the tv and the amp draw is 1.5 amps roughly. When I saw that I smacked the emergency kill button on the variac to avoid damaging anything. I have had units cook in the past to hopefully this set is okay.


Even if a fuse is blown on a meter sometimes you have to get another one. I blew a fuse in my craftsman meter and that caused it to become wildly inaccurate with resistance tests and now on some setting instead of reading "0.00" it always gets a reading. Maybe that's just the nature of this particular meter when it gets damaged, but I have been warned about fuses protecting a unit too late.

I will certainly keep an eye out for one of those. I am trying to get a bunch of tv repair equipment Saturday from someone with bulk. Maybe a hidden gem will be in there. Dang I hope so.

Did you remember to unplug the degaussing coil before powering up? That draws a lot of current on a cold start.

I think it's likely you'll get some good stuff out of that bulk deal, assuming you're in the US. I got my modest selection from US sellers, it's a lot harder to find that stuff North of the border, especially in my region.

I wouldn't expect much from a Craftsman meter, especially a newer one. I use a Fluke 77.

[zeno]

The STR is the 125V regulator.
2SD555 makes no sense. Maybe a 2SD1555 ?? if
so its the hoz out. They only dead short, will get zero ohms
no mater where the leads are.
Did you get pix or sound ?
Also post the model ###

73 Zeno
LFOD !

[Sealtest]

Yes, the coil was unplugged. Funny thing though, but this set and my trinitron are the only sets I have even noticed the coil on. They all do have them though, right?

I am in the US so maybe this lot of gear will be decent. I am helping someone get into the hobby so this will be good from him as well. The owners think it's awesome someone messes with old Tv's like they used to so that's always good,

My bad, the transistor is a 2sd1555 model, which I have ordered in a set of 5pcs for $1.42 free shipping (surprising really). This one is not a dead short, but it reads something no matter where the leads are so it is not longer functioning as a transistor. More like a wonky three way resistor. I have had transistors in amp sections do this so and it was not pretty.


This set did not stay on long enough to get a picture. I did briefly get a low pitched garbled noise out of the speaker (terrifying noise too, it made me jump), but then the set turned off.

The model is "celebrity" TC9140M according to the tag. I did not see a number on the chassis so hopefully that is enough info to identify it.

[zeno]

Yup all modern colors have a DGS coil.
Set is unlisted in Sams. Look on CRT socket for a chassis ##
like K20. If not there look on main board. We can still go father
without a manual.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

[zeno]

BTW for all.........
MOST horizontal outputs ( HOT's) from the late 70's on have a built in
damper diode & base resistor. The resistor goes from B-E & screws up
that reading. The damper diode will give a diode reading E-C one way
& wide open the other on the meters diode setting.

BTW #2
I lied ! I had ONE HOT open out of hundreds I found shorted. In a Zenith
custom series 25".

BTW #3
Quick check of HOT is ground meter & measure C to ground. If shorted
unsolder the HOT's C & retest. if no short its somethin else like FBT.
If the HOT is shorted the fun begins finding out why it did without
blowing parts.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

[Sealtest]

Originally Posted by zeno

Yup all modern colors have a DGS coil.
Set is unlisted in Sams. Look on CRT socket for a chassis ##
like K20. If not there look on main board. We can still go father
without a manual.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

According to the socket the model is "K-50".

The board has no number, but it does say "file name: CT513V". Is this something to do with the SAMS?

Also I should have ordered the STR30125 shouldn't I?