#46
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OK, thanks! I'll put one in there right away!
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#47
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I got a .01 MFD put in and its working now!
I'm not really noticing much of a difference in the bass on this radio with the .01 MFD vs. .02 MFD because this thing had really annoyingly low rattley bass previously and I think the .01 has actually toned the bass down to a much more tolerable level so that the speaker isn't rattling my radio's cabinet anymore. Last edited by vortalexfan; 06-27-2020 at 11:11 AM. |
#48
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OK well I think it was a little too early to celebrate, because the volume control started acting up again all the sudden, it was working perfectly but then all the sudden the volume got loud and the tone controls quit working again and the volume control is acting like a tone control again, so something must of happened to the capacitor I just stuck in there, which is weird because it was a brand new polypropolene capacitor that was never used so I wouldn't of thought that it would of shorted out or failed open suddenly...
I'm kind of getting tired of having to take this radio apart over and over again just to keep chasing down problems that keep cropping up one after another like this, they really didn't make this radio servicer friendly seeing as you have to go through the front and the back to remove the chassis screws and the knobs on the front are a pain in the butt to remove as well and the preset panel is also a pain to remove. I can see why they didn't make this particular model of radio for very long. Last edited by vortalexfan; 06-27-2020 at 11:44 AM. |
#49
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By "got loud", you mean it went to full volume and you can't turn it down? If so, that suggests the bottom lug of the control has lost its ground connection (or rather its connection to R22).
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#50
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Quote:
And like I said it was working fine for about 15 minutes then it suddently quit working again. I don't know if this is a clue or not as to what may have happened but when I first turned on the radio (after I installed the .01 MFD cap into that spot that was missing the cap for the volume control) there was a smell of melting solder like maybe something might of gotten hot enough to melt some solder, but I'm wondering if something in that detector to volume control coupling circtui got hot enough to melt the solder on that coupling cap I installed and made that capacitor come loose? If so what would of gotten that hot in that circuit to melt the solder on that capacitor and cause it to come loose? Last edited by vortalexfan; 06-27-2020 at 12:44 PM. |
Audiokarma |
#51
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There's nothing associated with that circuit that should draw any current to speak of, let alone enough to melt solder. Anyhow, check for solid continuity (zero ohms) from C11 to where it connects to the IF can, and to the 1 meg resistor (R11).
From the other side of C11, check for continuity to the top lug of the vol control. There's gotta be an open on one side or the other of C11. Doubtful, but maybe the cap itself has gone open(?) |
#52
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Quote:
Last edited by vortalexfan; 06-27-2020 at 01:31 PM. |
#53
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I have a .047 MFD capacitor, would that be ok in that spot if it turns out that the .01 capacitor did end up going bad?
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#54
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It'd work, but with excessive bass.
But by all means, first check continuity as suggested, from C11 to where it enters the IF can, and to resistor R22. And from the other end of C11 to the top of the vol control. Measure from right where the leads exit the capacitor body |
#55
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Quote:
I don't know if this would cause a problem or not but one of the wires coming out of one of the IF cans has crumbling rubber insulation and it does have some exposed wire although it's not touching anything. Last edited by vortalexfan; 06-27-2020 at 04:45 PM. |
Audiokarma |
#56
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Not sure what O.L. means. But if you suspect the capacitor, just parallel your .0033 and .0047. That'll make .008 which will give a tad less bass than the .01. Be sure and test the caps first.
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#57
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Quote:
Going between the side of the capacitor that attaches to the side going into the IF can and R22 I get 2.5 Meg, and then from the same side of the capacitor to the lower volume control lug (B- lug) I get the same reading 2.5 Meg, and then from that side of the cap going to the IF can to the top lug on the volume control I get 0.3 Ohms. |
#58
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Just need to verify solid continuity (zero ohms) as indicated by the red lines in the shetch:
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#59
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Which I'm assuming is what you wanted to know. |
#60
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If it does, this suggests C11 is bad. Try the paralleled .0033/.0047 caps for C11. |
Audiokarma |
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