Absolutely essential test equipment.

[Jon A.]

I'm for protecting one's investment. Not that I haven't fumbled this my share of times. Who knows when something like that would break and the whole thing would have to be replaced because parts are NLA. I'd rather pony up extra for a quality item. Also, my equipment has to look good to me to be worth purchasing, and that hardware is like, ewww...

[jr_tech]

Anybody here using a station that includes hot air for large surface mount parts, or should the hot air wand be a separate piece of gear from the de-solder/solder sucker unit?

http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Profesio...ir+desoldering

Edit add: It appears that the Hakko 808 has been discontinued, so it might be prudent to buy soon if one is desired.

http://www.hakkousa.com/detail.asp?C...PID=838&Page=1

Newer model Hakko:

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FR-300-H...ko+desoldering

no affiliation,
jr

[NoPegs]

Originally Posted by jr_tech

Anybody here using a station that includes hot air for large surface mount parts, or should the hot air wand be a separate piece of gear from the de-solder/solder sucker unit?

http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Profesio...ir+desoldering

Edit add: It appears that the Hakko 808 has been discontinued, so it might be prudent to buy soon if one is desired.

http://www.hakkousa.com/detail.asp?C...PID=838&Page=1

Newer model Hakko:

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FR-300-H...ko+desoldering

no affiliation,
jr

I prefer my hot air wand to be a standalone unit. If I had to do it all over again though I'd get one with the fan/pump/blower/compressor/bellows/whatever in the tabletop box and just a thicker umbilical to the hand-piece. Either that or I'd buy one with a higher build quality blower in the hand-piece. The vibration from mine at *certain* speed settings makes my hands tingle after 5-10 minutes of use. I usually just pop a mechanic's glove on and that takes care of things. I'll also add "Lowest setting of ~50C instead of 100C" to my wish list next time. (Hot shouldn't automatically mean at least boiling.)


If you don't have one already, holy crap get one. Even if you only ever use it for heat-shrink, thermal fault troubleshooting, or re-stuffing caps they're awesome and affordable. (Hell, RadioShack even sells one now for $30. I can't speak for that one but it can't be terrible.)

[davet753]

Since I first cut my teeth on television work, I have always used a VTVM more than anything else on the bench. While I have owned all manner of VOM's and digital meters, I always go back to my B&K VTVM.

The shop had three of them when I bought it that were purchased in the 1960's. The range switches were almost completely worn out, but I lucked up on a new-old-stock one in the late 1990's from a local distributor. I wouldn't trade it for anything!

[kcvet]

Originally Posted by davet753

Since I first cut my teeth on television work, I have always used a VTVM more than anything else on the bench. While I have owned all manner of VOM's and digital meters, I always go back to my B&K VTVM.

The shop had three of them when I bought it that were purchased in the 1960's. The range switches were almost completely worn out, but I lucked up on a new-old-stock one in the late 1990's from a local distributor. I wouldn't trade it for anything!

before I retired from Sony we were using Fluke auto rangers. no switch's. it auto detected what ever you used it on

[Popester]

Old post, my two cents. I like xelite hex driver tools for removing backs from sets. Also need chain nose and diagonal cutters. Hemostats can be handy and polarized and non polarized male to male cheater cords. I wore a tool belt with various tools back in my twenties. Couldn't wear it now unless I got a much bigger belt. Insulated hex adjust tools if your going d
To do any sweep or IF alignment. But not an estential.