#31
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While I certainly understand everyone's point of view on this, I did ask for everyone's opinion on the first practical color roundie. By the time the rectangular screen sets made it to market, the typical color set required about as much maintance as the typical monochrome set of that era. In other words, they were reliable, and therefore, practical.
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#32
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Quote:
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Personal website dedicated to Vintage Television https://visions4netjournal.com |
#33
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My vote is for the Zenith 29JC20. One fine set!
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#34
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http://www.oldtechnology.net/colour.html#hmv2000 |
#35
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Quote:
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
Audiokarma |
#36
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My 21-CT-55 draws 525w from the wall, the cord gets warm if you run it for very long.
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Evolution... |
#37
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In early color TV, a 1962-1964 Zenith roundie in high end chassis would be my nod for practical daily driver. No PC boards, far more reliable than RCA and engineered for reliability.
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#38
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The shock wore off after a few seconds. I remembered the CTC2 is peppered with tubes, and I reckon the 2B isn't much different.
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#39
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475 watts is a Merrill's draw. RCA had gotten kinda chintzy by this time, apparently. My 9TW333 has a beefy 16 gauge cord like one of those clocks you could plug a percolator into, yet it draws about 350 watts max.
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tvontheporch.com |
#40
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I run my CTC10 and CTC11 as daily runners. My 11 has a Cataract and not so great emission but my 10 is great. I must admit I use the 10 more.
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Tom Smrz |
Audiokarma |
#41
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The 475 watt figure for the CTC-2, and the 525 watt figure for the CTC-2B are both apparent power; you're being billed for less. IIRC, the power factor for a CT-100 is about 0.85 or so.
Last edited by benman94; 12-12-2016 at 02:36 PM. |
#42
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I'd use my blonde CTC-16X.
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#43
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Quote:
I have a 1964 Zenith metal cabinet job that a while back was familiar to this forum due to both that and a popped resistor under an arching (to the point of ruin) HV rectifier socket. I finally found a coil and a socket, but it wasn't easy. And understandably there weren't a lot of enthusiasts with spare chassis wanting to sell off vital parts. Someone finally came to the rescue with the rectifier socket and for the record, the resistor isn't even necessary. Can't remember why to explain, but a very reliable source told me to run a jumper where the resistor was and all would be well. And it was. I still have the set, but the project got put to the side by the acquisition of a new woman and all of her (MANY) belongings. No room to pull a TV chassis, so I shifted my interests to restoring old test equipment like Heathkit C3s, Sprague TelOhmikes, and Solar stuff. The type that test for leakage at full rated voltage. Great, if not essential for people doing what we do here at VK and NO a modern DVOM with capacitance WILL NOT tell you the condition of any capacitor; only the uuf or uf value with it's 9V battery. Don't want to go off topic so yes the set sits waiting for it's day in the sun of the right buyer. It works pretty good. Needs a little convergence work and I run it on my Variac with a milli ammeter hooked up to the cathode of the horizontal output tube to keep an eye on the current. I don't want to lose a flyback! The current gets a little higher than I feel good about at full wall potential, so I need to replace a few caps in that circuit and all will be fine.
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"Face piles of trials with smiles, for it riles them to believe that you perceive the web they weave, and keep on thinking free" |
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