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  #31  
Old 10-27-2018, 12:16 PM
Tony F Tony F is offline
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I finally got the manual in my hands. I've scanned only the schematic into pdf format so far. It is too large to post here. I think if I try to reduce the resolution to post it, it will probably be unreadable. Anyway, there are 3 selenium rectifiers in the power supply labeled X1,X2, X3. The only reference to them in the parts list is Part-No 130-044 rated at 400 mA. Is there a suitable silicon diode that I can use to replace them, when I am doing a re-cap on the set ? I am familiar with the voltage increase using a silicon replacement. Do I need to use a resistor in series with them to drop the voltage back to what the selenium part would produce ? The only other "modern" components in the set is a pair of matched IN34 Germanium Diodes in the Phase Discriminator (Horizontal Oscillator) sync circuit.
Tony
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  #32  
Old 10-28-2018, 06:58 AM
ronl ronl is offline
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Hi Tony.i send all the Canadian data I scan to Steve Mcvoys early tv museum site and he archives them in good resolution for all to see.that way,you can post a link on this forum for members to download and view the schematic as well. A great service.if interested,here is his link.
http://www.earlytelevision.org/tv_sc...ams_b-c-d.html. RonL

Last edited by ronl; 10-28-2018 at 07:05 AM.
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  #33  
Old 10-30-2018, 07:20 AM
Tony F Tony F is offline
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Ron, I was able to scan the entire manual (into individual sections) and send them to Steve at earlytelevsion.org so hopefully he will make it available to everyone.
Tony
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  #34  
Old 10-31-2018, 10:16 AM
Tony F Tony F is offline
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I just checked the earlytelevision.org web site and Steve was kind enough to post the service data for the various models in the manual. Under Rogers Philips Canadian.
Thank-you Steve
http://www.earlytelevision.org/tv_sc...iagrams_r.html
Tony
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  #35  
Old 11-02-2018, 07:47 AM
ronl ronl is offline
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Great that you shared your data on Steve's site Tony.that way anybody can find it now.i send whatever I scan for members here and arf to Steve as well. Good luck with that set. RonL
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  #36  
Old 11-17-2018, 02:57 PM
Tony F Tony F is offline
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Well, I finally got the time to remove the picture tube and take some photo's of the bottom. I was surprised to see that the electrolytics are the type that have a nut on the bottom to secure them. It should make restuffing them much more easy going than having to deal with the "twist" tab style. Also the 6 caps that are in the middle of the 2 chassis halves can be unplugged, unscrewed and worked on as a sub section. The yolk itself has it's own plug and can be removed without having to desolder wires.
Tony
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DV1050-Power-1of2.JPG (50.7 KB, 35 views)
File Type: jpg DV1050-Power-2of2.JPG (48.9 KB, 28 views)
File Type: jpg DV1050-I.F.-1of2.JPG (52.3 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg DV1050-I.F.-2of2.JPG (52.2 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg DV1050-Cap-Pac.JPG (52.5 KB, 32 views)
File Type: jpg DV1050-Split-Chassis.JPG (51.1 KB, 32 views)
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  #37  
Old 11-24-2018, 01:34 PM
Tony F Tony F is offline
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Can someone tell me if it is ok to replace a 1000 mmf @500V -CERAMIC- cap with a mica of the same value ? As for the application, it is C49 in the schematic here: (page 21 of the pdf or page 20 of the manual itself).
http://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/r..._dv1050_tv.pdf
It is located between the Video output of the 6V6 V10 (pin 3) and (pin 1) of the 6AU6 V11. The one leg has broken off. I spotted it while I have been gutting the electrolytic cans to re-stuff. I did not break it, as it is buried too deep in the chassis to get damaged.
I am also wondering about the best way to go about doing the ground connection with this style of electrolytic cap (they are all dual style). Both "positive" leads come out the center and the ground is only "friction" between the base of the can and chassis. This being a "hot" chassis of all the "cans" only 4 of them actually are insulated from the chassis. The rest are all grounded to the chassis. I thought about maybe drilling a small hole close to the outer area and using "desoldering braid" (copper) to make a friction ground like original. I'd prefer a soldered connection, but there are a lot of wires in the way, on a lot of the "cans". This style using the "nut" to tighten makes it a little more challenging to run the third wire for the negative side. It would be a lot easier if you could solder to aluminum. I will probably have to use the new "skinny" style Nichicons, as the caps I have are too large to fit back in the original cans. I know Bob A. did a video on them, so I'll have to do a search on that style. As a "plus" they are also rated at much longer hours.
I'm also using 2/56 bolts and nuts in place of the original aluminum press pins that secured the "solder lugs" on these caps.
Tony
Attached Images
File Type: jpg CeramicCap.jpg (76.0 KB, 26 views)
File Type: jpg NutStyleCap.jpg (67.6 KB, 22 views)
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