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  #106  
Old 12-31-2018, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by etype2 View Post
Update from Mike, December 30, 2018. Day 152

Greetings Marshall. We are finished with the bottom of the chassis, at least FOR NOW. Picture #1 is the top of the chassis again, and it shows nice clean capacitor cans that have been replaced. The rest of it still needs a lot of cleaning and yet, some more components replaced. For now, it is time to rebuild the tuner since the lubricants have long ago turned to something more like plastic rather than grease or oil. But first, I have snapped a picture of the “HUE” control that you speak of and have asked it to be moved to the front of the chassis. This is not going to happen. The HUE control is NOT a POT. It is a coil. There is a flexible cable that is manufactured to fit the top of the slug of the coil and that is their method of changing the phase relationship of the colors. I do not see a “good” way to move this control. It would be problematic since the controls on the front panel are all below the “plane” of the chassis. Anyway, Picture #1 shows this issue. Picture #2 shows the chassis with the nice new electrolytic cans and a “somewhat” dirty chassis. This will be cleaned up a bit during the next restoration phases.

Picture #3 is before the tuner removal.
Picture #4 is the tuner removed.
Picture #5 is the cover removed and you can now see the corroded condition of the contacts on the channel elements.
Picture #6 Channel strips removed.

Picture #7 Inside tuner main shaft removed.

Picture #8 Tuner contacts and body cleaned. And all resistance values checked.
Picture #9 Main shaft and Fine Tuning shaft before cleaning.
Picture #10 Fine tuning shaft, contact spring and detent wheel before cleaning.
Picture #11 Parts ready for re-assembly.
Picture #11 Parts ready for re-assembly.
Picture #12 Drum and detent installed.
Picture #13. All strips re-installed, the cover is on and the tuner is ready to re-install.

Tap on images to enlarge. See this link to view 13 images full size. https://visions4netjournal.com/westinghouse/




I think there is a doable reasonable method of achieving front tint control on that model. Drill a hole on the side of the large main chassis, unbolt the tint knob shaft and linkage on the back of the sub chassis, fish the knob shaft end of the flexible linkage through the hole you just made, build an angle bracket to hold the end of the linkage at some practical point under the main chassis with the shaft pointing towards the pencil box controls area, then run a shaft extension from the pencil box area all the way back to that bracket you made somewhere mid under chassis. The flex shaft looks a bit short so where you put the hole and bracket will probably need carefull planning...you may also need to put a universal flex joint (just like on some of the original under chassis shaft extensions) between the the extension shaft and the shaft on the original flex shaft if the mounting arrangement causes them to meet at an angle.






I recently had reason to do a power relay mod similar to yours (and found a better way to do it) on an audio console I was souping up. I don't like those exposed above chassis relay treminals, and found a nice way of eliminating them in my work....They still make relays with octal bases on them for industrial automation (I think they use a different name than octal). I took the back shell from an eye tube socket from a scrapped radio console and an octal socket that the shell fits and put my connections inside the shell with the relay unplugged it looks like an eye tube socket and with the relay connected it still looks much more like a stock part of the set. For those curious: the console had a switched outlet that was getting extra load in the course of fixing the tuner chassis I had to change the power control pot and beefed up it's switch. However the original design did not allow the record changer to control the power of the chassis...I wanted the phono's power switch to have logical OR behavior with the chassis power switch without forcing the phono to spin if the radio was on and the easiest way (a safest for the phono switch) to implement it was a 115V relay coil in parallel with the phono motor with it's contacts inparallel with the chassis power switch.
Photo graphic summary: this is safer and better looking



Than this:
[/QUOTE]
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Last edited by Electronic M; 12-31-2018 at 11:39 AM.
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  #107  
Old 12-31-2018, 02:39 PM
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My initial thought was to unfasten the hue control from the chassis bracket and simply let the cable drop down to the bottom of the cabinet and fasten it to the inside of the cabinet. No holes on the side of the cabinet!! The cable looks to be about 15 inches long. There is sufficient room for the hand to reach the control if itís long enough. I think Iíd still need a mirror and we would have to unfasten the mount every time we pull the chassis.

I decided not to drill a hole in the pencil box because it would alter the physical appearance. The control could easily be replaced to its original position for purest collectors.

We placed the restored cabinet in the room anticipating the gymnastics of adjusting the hue control. :-)

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Last edited by etype2; 12-31-2018 at 02:43 PM.
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  #108  
Old 12-31-2018, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by etype2 View Post
My initial thought was to unfasten the hue control from the chassis bracket and simply let the cable drop down to the bottom of the cabinet and fasten it to the inside of the cabinet. No holes on the side of the cabinet!! The cable looks to be about 15 inches long. There is sufficient room for the hand to reach the control if itís long enough. I think Iíd still need a mirror and we would have to unfasten the mount every time we pull the chassis.

I decided not to drill a hole in the pencil box because it would alter the physical appearance. The control could easily be replaced to its original position for purest collectors.

We placed the restored cabinet in the room anticipating the gymnastics of adjusting the hue control. :-)
I never suggested adding holes to the cabinet.

Infact you could bring the control into the pencil box without adding a hole in the pencil box...Just remove one of the pots in the pencil box, and replace it with a new concentric shaft dual pot with the same resistance on the front element (outer shaft), remove the back element of the new pot and couple it's shaft (inner shaft) to the flexible linkage or a shaft extention going to it as outlined in my last post...There would be no new holes in the cabinet or pencill box, all the original pencil box controls would exist, and hue would be added....

I kind of want to get my own westinghouse to try ths modification on...
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  #109  
Old 12-31-2018, 03:54 PM
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.... as in the 21CT55. Persuasive. I know you did not suggest drilling a hole in the side of the cabinet, just for anyone thinking I would do such a thing.

Edit: If you try this, let us know how it worked out. Thanks.
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Last edited by etype2; 12-31-2018 at 04:11 PM.
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  #110  
Old 01-19-2019, 03:35 AM
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Update, January 18, 2019

Hi Marshall. Now that I have things squared away on the *“mountain tops”*, I am back to the Westy. During the dismantling of the set you might remember that I mentioned a powdered iron core slug that I found in the ventilating screen after removing the chassis. Well, I FOUND OUT where it came from. It came from the Hue control coil (Burst amplifier). I will need to remove the transformer and likely manufacture a new slug assembly for it. The pictures are as follows. 1) and 2) The broken piece that I found. 3) and 4) Shows more cleanup of the top part of the chassis. The deflection yoke has been removed so it can be cleaned and serviced separately. There is still one large axial type capacitor that I need to find and it is seen just above the white wires from the new VDC transformer. 5) and 6) shows the burst amp transformer bottom view and top view that I will need to remove in order to rebuild the iron core that is broken. The 2 horizontal output tubes (6BG6) are separate manufacturers and the date codes are many years apart and they should be replaced with a matched pair. Also, there are 2 damper tubes which by design are 6AX4 type. These are really tubes from the “black and white days” and that is why they used 2 in parallel instead of the usual 1. One has been replaced with a 6AU4 type , which is the “stronger” version of the 6AX4 and was designed for use in the newer color sets that were made after the Westy. Bottom line is, these should also be replaced with a matched pair of 6AU4. I will be purchasing these for replacements before I fire up the chassis to do any further sweep circuit testing. My next steps will be to “look” into the high voltage section and do a lot of work in there. I have already purchased a new matched set of 3 high voltage rectifier tubes for that section. I originally was going to convert these to solid state however I have changed my course of action on that decision for a number of reasons.

Cheers, Mike

*Author: Servicing the various communication repeaters in Mohave County, Arizona.













More information at this link: https://visions4netjournal.com/westinghouse/
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Last edited by etype2; 01-19-2019 at 03:42 AM.
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  #111  
Old 01-19-2019, 10:23 AM
Tom9589 Tom9589 is offline
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Do you think the slug might have broken due to the constant adjustment of the hue?
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  #112  
Old 01-19-2019, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom9589 View Post
Do you think the slug might have broken due to the constant adjustment of the hue?
Hard to say. It has a sharp break. It could have been there lying on the screen prior to shipping or it broke during shipping.

I think itís possible that constant adjustment may have weakened it.
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  #113  
Old 02-02-2019, 02:52 AM
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Update, February 1, 2019, Day 185

Next! The high voltage cage. I have received the matched pair of 6BG6 JAN (joint army navy) mil spec tubes for the horizontal output stage of the sweep circuit. I still need to find a nice pair of 6AU4 damper tubes to compliment the output tubes but the damper tubes are not as critical as the outputs as far as “matched pairs” go. The focus rectifier tube will be replaced with a solid state selenium type such as what was used in the CTC15 RCA sets. I have purchased a matched set of qty 3 (1B3) rectifier tubes to replace the High Voltage rectifier/tripler set. I will be replacing the capacitors in the high voltage cage and I will be replacing the resistors with modern type film resistors as well. After these restoration procedures I will be ready to start powering up the chassis with the sweep circuits disabled in order to test the individual circuits. I will use an oscilloscope for that process. The signal source will be either antenna TV signals or crosshatch signals from a color generator.

Cheers, Mike.

Go here at the bottom of page for photos. https://visions4netjournal.com/westinghouse/
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Last edited by etype2; 02-02-2019 at 03:44 AM. Reason: Typo
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  #114  
Old 02-04-2019, 03:51 PM
kvflyer kvflyer is offline
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Mike, I am going through my tubes right now. If I find some 6AU4 NOS tubes, I will get in touch with you. They will be gratis. Just give me a few days, please.
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  #115  
Old 02-04-2019, 03:53 PM
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I show 2 6AU4GTA tubes in my inventory but have not found them yet. I moved...
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  #116  
Old 02-04-2019, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by kvflyer View Post
Mike, I am going through my tubes right now. If I find some 6AU4 NOS tubes, I will get in touch with you. They will be gratis. Just give me a few days, please.
Much appreciated. Iím Marshall, Mike is the tech working on the chassis. I did the cabinet.
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  #117  
Old 02-05-2019, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by etype2 View Post
Much appreciated. Iím Marshall, Mike is the tech working on the chassis. I did the cabinet.
Gotcha. Thanks for the update. I have gone through many of my tubes, testing as I go, all "audio" first. I have boxes of tube yet to go through. Some have tatty boxes but as you know, that usually doesn't affect the tube unless subjected to too much moisture.

More to come this week...
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