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  #1  
Old 07-11-2018, 01:16 PM
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Motorola TS-4J

Can someone confirm what should attach to the selenium rectifiers? Someone replaced mine but there are a lot of loose connections and I'm not sure what goes where. The schematics don't match the spare chassis I have (TS-4J as well).

Thanks,
Zach
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Old 07-11-2018, 04:35 PM
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I've restored several of these and the published schematics are correct. What differences are you seeing in your spare chassis ?
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Old 07-11-2018, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bandersen View Post
I've restored several of these and the published schematics are correct. What differences are you seeing in your spare chassis ?
Maybe I'm reading this wrong, but the positives of C2A and C1 should never touch right?
20180711_175753.jpg

20180711_181009.jpg
This is the actual wiring of the spare. I realize this isn't in proper schematic form, but I didn't wanna confuse myself.
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Old 07-11-2018, 05:25 PM
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Right the positives do not touch - the rectifier goes in between. Your spare isn't wired right. Maybe someone was trying to fix it ?
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Old 07-11-2018, 06:41 PM
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We can only guess. The spare had numerous evident repairs. It blew both the diodes when I installed it in the main chassis, but hopefully all of the caps are still within tolerance.
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Old 07-12-2018, 06:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zsuttle View Post
We can only guess. The spare had numerous evident repairs. It blew both the diodes when I installed it in the main chassis, but hopefully all of the caps are still within tolerance.
If the caps you mention you hope are still good, then if they are original they won't be.
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Old 07-12-2018, 11:21 AM
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If the caps you mention you hope are still good, then if they are original they won't be.
Even if those caps are new if the wiring errors put reverse polarity or AC across any of those caps the ones that got it are done for.
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Old 07-12-2018, 05:26 PM
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Even if those caps are new if the wiring errors put reverse polarity or AC across any of those caps the ones that got it are done for.
And if you don't take that into consideration, you may have headaches in the future. I realise it is difficult to throw away a "new" capacitor. But they are really not that expensive and there is security in knowing that they are new, and not stressed.
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Old 07-13-2018, 09:21 PM
mrjukebox160 mrjukebox160 is offline
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If C79 shorted the 200 ohm part of the ballast resistor should of burned up very quickly.
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Old 07-13-2018, 09:33 PM
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If C79 shorted the 200 ohm part of the ballast resistor should of burned up very quickly.
If that isn't the case, if anything at all had shorted, then the ballast should be blown right?

What should the voltage coming off of pin 4 and pin 3 be?
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Old 07-14-2018, 06:53 AM
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I don't find a c79 power supply cap on the ts4j schematic.
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Old 07-14-2018, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
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I don't find a c79 power supply cap on the ts4j schematic.
I think he meant C97.
I just spent a half hour trying to find the B+ source. It seems it's sourced from the cathode of the 12SN7, 2nd clipper.
Slightly harder schematic to understand! Even the Sams isn't much better.
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Old 07-14-2018, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
I think he meant C97.
I just spent a half hour trying to find the B+ source. It seems it's sourced from the cathode of the 12SN7, 2nd clipper.
Slightly harder schematic to understand! Even the Sams isn't much better.
The TS-4 family created the B+ rail by using several stages between B++ and B- as a voltage divider. You know how some makes used the audio output as a voltage dropper instead of a resistor...Moto took it a step farther by using several tubes in series-parallel to make a voltage divider. Crazy but it worked.
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Old 07-14-2018, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
I think he meant C97.
I just spent a half hour trying to find the B+ source. It seems it's sourced from the cathode of the 12SN7, 2nd clipper.
Slightly harder schematic to understand! Even the Sams isn't much better.
I was referring to C79 on the SAMs schematic(TS-4J Late). It's a little rf bypass connected to pin 3 on the ballast though it's located right behind the tuner.
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Old 07-14-2018, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zsuttle View Post
If that isn't the case, if anything at all had shorted, then the ballast should be blown right?

What should the voltage coming off of pin 4 and pin 3 be?
Almost full line voltage because of no load.
That set's a little trickier to troubleshoot because it uses a floating B- line instead of a hot chassis.
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