#31
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My B&K dyna-jet 606 has served me well on everything octal and newer.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#32
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Already got a set of spares. I could use a tester for some other projects anyway, so it wouldn’t be wasted money. I’m starting to think maybe I bit off more than I can chew, and should have started with black and white tv first. I’m learning that color has a lot more going on.
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#33
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What about the other set you mentioned as having for parts. Does it work? |
#34
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Sorry for the confusion-yes, the restored set is working like brand new and has the upgraded polarized cord to avoid a hot chassis. I just like to have spares of everything, hence my search for parts. I’d like to start cutting my teeth on the donor set to learn what I’m doing.
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#35
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It seems that every transformerless GE set, B/W and color was equipped that way. Also, most other US makes from the early 60's did as well. Probably easier to get U/L approval. |
Audiokarma |
#36
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#37
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#38
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#39
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Is the purpose of the polarized cord solely for safety, or are there any other reasons as well?
My set's plug was replaced at one point, and the replacement plug is non-polarized. Is there any concern/risk of damage to the set if it's operated with the polarity flipped? I wouldn't think so, but just wanted to ask. |
#40
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The interlock on the back of the set it's self is polarized. The plug on the cord should be to if original or correct replacement.
The main advantage of a polarized cord is that the building neutral ( which is grounded) can be always wired to chassis (assuming the electrician that wired your building wired the outlet polarity correctly) making the set safer. Since the 50's the UL required hot chassis sets to not have any exposed metal cabinet hardware with connection to the chassis so the polarized cord is redundant. The set does not care about polarity given to it.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
Audiokarma |
#41
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I had a number of customers in the early 60s who had cheap record players that their kids used in the basement, often with bare concrete floors. While they only got a tickle and not a full shock, I nevertheless installed polarized plugs on these record players. No more tickle.
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#42
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#43
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My earlier PortaColor didn't come with the proper cord. Driving down the street, I saw a small B/W GE solid state portable next to the trash. I wasn't going to stop, but I saw it had the perfect power cord for my PortaColor that was in perfect condition. Not too many later model sets came through with interlocking power cords. |
#44
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All kidding aside we changed all modified cords as a CYA step. They are redundant as everything is plastic. No effect on operating the TV. BTW some chassii are hot either way...... As for doing a B&W first just get your set to be as good a B&W first then worry about color. Series string sets to find open filament do this. Meter on AC, ground one lead. Go along pin 1 & 12 til you find one with no AC on one pin. BTW you will measure 120VAC all along the string. That will not match the data. Its because with the open there is no current so no voltage drop along the string. 73 Zeno LFOD ! |
#45
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BTW, those PortaColors sure are nasty to totally disassemble to replace the CRT. |
Audiokarma |
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