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  #31  
Old 09-29-2011, 04:58 PM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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I've got a newer "wired remote" for 120VAC outlets that was bought for use with christmas lights a few years back (the thing is green).
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  #32  
Old 09-30-2011, 10:11 PM
doogie812 doogie812 is offline
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RE: Welding open filaments. I did that years ago back in the 80’s. I have had a few junkers with open filaments that whacking the tube would make it work for a while. I charged a 10mfd cap to 250 volts (no math here I had a 250 vdc regulated power supply and a 10mfd pigtail cap). Wired it up and whacked it! The tubes lasted for years after that. I do recall some color tube filaments being wired in series. I don’t remember what types…
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  #33  
Old 12-26-2011, 12:48 PM
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Getting back on track (finally) - I started to look at the set after a long time of ignoring it, and I find none of the tubes are listed on my old Realistic tube tester.

Anyway, my planned order of business:
Test all tubes and order replacements if needed
Pull TV chassis on both sets (coffin and CRT donor console) and stereo chassis on coffin
Pull dead CRT and get rid of it
Pull donor CRT, remove glass and clean/replace gasket
Install donor CRT
Cap census - purchase caps
Recap coffin TV and stereo chassis

Estimated time of completion August??

Besides finding a tube tester, I think I need someone to help put the coffin on its face for CRT replacement.
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  #34  
Old 01-05-2012, 04:35 PM
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Chassis number in a Zenith Coffin

Yes, the tube chart in a Zenith would definitely have the chassis model.

Last edited by wkand; 01-05-2012 at 04:37 PM. Reason: Wanted to make sure it stayed posted. Some Quick Replies have not in the past.
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  #35  
Old 01-06-2012, 09:33 AM
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That will be a really nice set when you get it going. I just wonder what killed the filament? I've rarely seen dead CRT filaments.
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  #36  
Old 01-01-2013, 09:14 PM
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Well, I started to look at this set again, and immediately got stuck. The manuals have nice diagrams of what on the control panel connects where on the chassis, but no instructions on what to disconnect or unscrew from the cabinet to remove the chassis - that is, what has to go with the chassis and what stays in the cabinet, and what do you remove first. Some things have obvious plugs, but others, like the color controls, SEEM to be hardwired to the chassis. So now what?

My planned first step was to pull the chassis so I can swap CRTs and also begin work on caps, but I'm still scratching my head.

Anybody know how this set is supposed to come apart? Am I thinking of it backwards and the bezel should come off somehow first?
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  #37  
Old 01-02-2013, 10:29 AM
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nasadowsk nasadowsk is offline
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look in the compartment up front where the controls are. There SHOULD be 2 phillips screws. Remove the knobs, remove those two screws. The box unhooks in back from the bezel! The power/volume knob is (2) 1/4 inch screws. The speaker unplugs from the chassis. as does the convergence and tuner. Watch the HV suction cup! Unplug the yoke wires, and the chassis should ease out.

If it's like my 25LC20, the controls box can be hooked onto the front of the chassis and secured with a screw to hold it in there so it doesn't flop around.

Just look it over carefully, and it's pretty obvious once you do it the first time.
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  #38  
Old 01-02-2013, 12:36 PM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nasadowsk View Post
look in the compartment up front where the controls are. There SHOULD be 2 phillips screws. Remove the knobs, remove those two screws. The box unhooks in back from the bezel! The power/volume knob is (2) 1/4 inch screws. The speaker unplugs from the chassis. as does the convergence and tuner. Watch the HV suction cup! Unplug the yoke wires, and the chassis should ease out.

If it's like my 25LC20, the controls box can be hooked onto the front of the chassis and secured with a screw to hold it in there so it doesn't flop around.

Just look it over carefully, and it's pretty obvious once you do it the first time.
It must be 30 years ago, since I pulled the chassis from one of those. I'd probably remember the proceedure.
BTW, looking over the entries on this thread, we haven't heard from Electronic Memory in a long time. He must be taking his College education seriously.
For a young man, he seemed to be well versed.
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  #39  
Old 01-02-2013, 02:25 PM
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Glad you are working on the coffin again.

I am still curious about the tube and how all three filaments would simultaneously open. Perhaps a bad internal weld? My thought was perhaps a bad solder joint at the socket. Did you further investigate this?

I assume you must have ascertained the tube to be bad?
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  #40  
Old 01-02-2013, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Penthode View Post
Glad you are working on the coffin again.

I am still curious about the tube and how all three filaments would simultaneously open. Perhaps a bad internal weld? My thought was perhaps a bad solder joint at the socket. Did you further investigate this?

I assume you must have ascertained the tube to be bad?
I remember your question about the filaments and will retest to see if I can find out what's what.
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  #41  
Old 01-09-2013, 07:25 PM
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I tried resoldering the filament pins, and they still test open. At some point (probably after swapping in the known good tube) I may completely remove the socket and test directly to the wires. For now, it's just no go. The socket is a bit loose, and I tried wiggling it, but no success.

Both this 21FJ and the replacement 21FB are marked Zenith, but have RCA EIA codes (274)
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  #42  
Old 05-23-2015, 03:36 PM
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I got back to trying to clean the donor faceplate, and nothing seemed to work - there was always a residue, until:

I got some nail polish remover (acetone) and that seemed to be loosening the hazy stuff and moving it around (but still leaving something). So then I tried full concentration dish soap, and voila! It removed everything this time, I guess because the acetone left stuff that was now removable.

Since the donor faceplate rubber gasket seems in decent shape, I intend to use it.

I am wondering if (with the set on its face) I can drop the faceplate in first, then set the regunned tube in on it, rather than trying to fasten the faceplate to the tube first?

I also have all the restored chassis back (TV, radio, audio amp, remote), along with the turntable, which I am told is working only in manual mode as of now, and needs a new stylus. (It's a long saga, the guy who was working on everything got a full-time job, also had some health problems, and scaled back time on this.)

Now waiting to make contact with the person who is supposed to help with the CRT install and re-assembly. It's just too heavy for me to be flipping over by myself.
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  #43  
Old 08-23-2015, 08:28 PM
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Doug Harland, a great guy, came over today and spent 8 hours putting all the chassis back in place and connecting everything while I acted as gofer. I'm so glad he did, because this set seems to never have used identical screws for nearly identical functions. I would have spent a week just trying to figure out which screw held what to the cabinet.

First thing, though, was to replace the picture tube with the rebuilt from Scotty and a faceplate from a donor tube. I thought the original faceplate gasket would be Ok, but it had continued oozing gunk and had to be discarded. So, there was a detour to Home Depot to look for some gasket material. We bought several kinds. Here is the stuff that worked out best:

CAM01072 by Wayne Bretl, on Flickr

CAM01073 by Wayne Bretl, on Flickr

You stick the gasket to the tube, then lay on the faceplate, and finally seal it against dust with clear packing tape.

CAM01068 by Wayne Bretl, on Flickr

CAM01077 by Wayne Bretl, on Flickr

In this set, the CRT mounts from the rear. It mounts to a plate behind the bezel, and the plate and CRT have to be removed and dropped in as a unit. The bezel itself is cast zinc.

CAM01082 by Wayne Bretl, on Flickr

CAM01084 by Wayne Bretl, on Flickr

CAM01090 by Wayne Bretl, on Flickr

CAM01093 by Wayne Bretl, on Flickr

Did I mention Doug is a great guy? He stayed 8 hours until everything was connected and could be fired up. Unfortunately, the result was not simple plug and play - some tube sockets appear intermittent; and Doug also suggested testing tubes with a better tube tester to weed out any with grid emission.

The audio amp and tuner do work, if the source switch does.

Currently needing debugging:
Audio selector push buttons switch in the stereo did not want to turn off when "off" was pushed. This is a problem because it also kills the TV sound.Finally got it to turn off after a dozen tries, but probably ready to fail any moment.
Remote control is balky - probably needs retuning, and looks like some old caps are present and may be a problem.
Cannot make cutoff - extinguishing the lines in setup mode leaves a medium bright raster even at minimum brightness setting.
No RF snow; can get audio noise intermittently by playing with tube seating.Tried Deoxit on IF tube sockets, which helped a bit, but still intermittent.
Phono works in manual mode, but won't complete automatic cycle (probably loose belt).
Convergence cloverleaf is broken in two places, currently held together with electrical tape and a tie-wrap. Need to find a replacement if possible.

So, will be investigating tubes and sockets and looking for what's wrong with cutoff.

To thank Doug, I gave him the old CRT (with the hope that the open filaments are a lead wire issue and not actually open) and an interesting Zenith portable (OOF! you call this portable?) from 1980 with continuous VHF and UHF tuners.
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Last edited by old_tv_nut; 08-23-2015 at 09:34 PM.
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  #44  
Old 08-24-2015, 08:08 AM
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Question about moving a set like this:

Do you think regular home movers are suitable (worry about necking it!) or should special movers/shippers be used?
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