#16
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It's dry so I brought it in and installed the chassis.
Still need to do some things like make up a knob panel, and get some grille cloth, also need to extend the IR sensor so I can mount it up front somewhere, I can probably hide it in the speaker grille. It needs a back too, I mounted the chassis so the inputs will just stick out, it has two sets of inputs, one was on the front, it plugs into the chassis so I may just omit it. It is a Stereo set so I'll need to mount two speakers inside, it has a great picture, the set seems to be a cut above the no name BPC junk. I'd like to get into the service menu (if it has one) and adjust the picture size to fit the opening, it's not really noticeable but it extends past the opening a half inch on the sides and maybe 1/4" on the top and bottom. Anyone know the trick to access the Service menu on a 2003 Samsung? |
#17
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Quote:
__________________
Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
#18
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Quote:
http://www.riddledtv.com/forums/sams...rptv-t291.html Cheers,
__________________
Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
#19
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CRT sets:
Selection sequence: STAND-BY - MUTE - 1 -8 - 2 - POWER ON 2. The FACTORY MODE message will be displayed. The Factory Mode has four components : Adjustment, MPX, PIP, Option Byte and Factory Reset. 3. Access the Adjustment Mode by pressing the VOLUME keys The adjustment parameters are listed in the accompanying table. Select them by pressing the CHANNEL keys. 4. After completing the Factory Mode adjustments, turn the power switch OFF. Some sets have wierd names for stuff - like East-West Amplitude would be the Horizontal size, and East-West Centering would be Horizontal Centering. Others are for Pincushion, and use the same East-West nomenclature. HS is generally Horizontal Shift, which can affect width. Write down the parameter's value before adjusting, so you can come back to it if nothing is working. Hope this helps,
__________________
Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
#20
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Brian, that worked, thank you! The key was it needed to be in Stand By first, (Green pilot light on, set off).
I was able to adjust the Vertical size but the Horizontal only seems to have Centering, it doesn't seem to affect the width. This will be a lot easier once I get the IR sensor moved to the front of the set, I have to point the remote inside the back now to turn it on and off, not the easiest way to adjust things. You don't really notice the missing side information, it's probably less than the overscan on the original set. When I get ready to try it again I'll take a picture of the adjustment screen so I have a record of the settings. |
Audiokarma |
#21
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A little more progress.
I went to Jo-Anne's and picked up some fabric that's reasonably appropriate for Grille Cloth. Next I decided what speakers to use, I have been wondering what to do with this little pair of Realistic Minimus Seven's for a long time, now I know. The TV has a pathetic 2.5 watts per channel of audio power @8 ohms, the original speakers were barely listenable without their original enclosure, also I wanted something with a crossover and a tweeter, these fit the bill perfectly. They play quite loudly so they must be pretty efficient, small enough to mount side by side on the speaker board too. I did a hack job on cutting out the openings, oh well, it was hot and dark in the garage and I just wanted to get it done, it won't be seen anyway. I need a good staple gun now so I can attach the cloth to the board, I have a regular office type Swingline stapler but it's not up to the job. Anyone have some tips on installing the cloth I'm all ears, I usually botch stuff like this up. I have plenty of extra cloth though so I can try again if needed. Oh yeah, I figured out what to do with either the extra set of inputs or the tuner, I'm going to install a Digital Converter box in the empty space at the bottom, I'll run the IR sensor up front so it can be operated with the remote. I think I can hide both IR sensors in the speaker grille area, possibly in a crevice of the cris-cross pattern in the Bakelite. Last edited by Eric H; 09-04-2011 at 09:57 PM. |
#22
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Hey, I like that cloth! It looks like a passable match for a GE810. Maybe I'll finally get rid of my burlap
Do you recall the pattern name ? Sorry - no tips from me. I'm terrible with grille cloth |
#23
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I have no idea of the name but I have gobs of it, I'll be happy to send a piece to you.
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#24
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With grill cloth you basically want to divide and conquer.
Start in the center of one edge and tack, then pull taunt and tack the opposite edge. Then go out to one corner and pull a little tension at 45degrees from center, tack. Crossover to the opposite corner, tack, then repeat for the two remaining corners. Now focus on finishing the first two parallel edges, subdividing down while alternate tacking side to side. Next tack the center of one of two remaining edges, pulling slightly outward, in an attempt to match the stretch at the corners. Repeat the dividing process as with the first two parallel sides, only now you focus on matching the stretch initialized at the corners. I generally do longest sides first, because that’s where the most stretching needs to occur. Don’t go crazy with the stretching, that only makes it more difficult to keep things even, plus the cloth will tend to pull from under the staples later on. Watch the pattern in the cloth as you stretch it, working out from the centers. Hope that makes some sense. Last edited by Kevin Kuehn; 09-05-2011 at 02:53 AM. |
#25
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I suppose you may want your grill cloth glued onto the speaker board? To do that, I've first fastened two edges of the fabric to some wood strips that act as handles. Spray the speaker board and backside of the fabric with some contact adhesive. After the glue tacks up, then gently stretch the fabric using the wood handles, all while lowering the fabric down onto the speaker board. I've even heard of some using a wood picture frame or a large needlepoint hoop for holding the fabric. Apparently hide glue was originally used for attaching some speaker cloth. I suppose the old formula hide glue sets up pretty quickly when applied hot. You probably should still staple the edges after gluing. Personally, with that size speaker board I'd just go with the staples, but it depends on how sturdy the fabric is.
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Audiokarma |
#26
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Thanks for the great tips. Maybe these should be moved to a sticky post in the tech forum ?
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#27
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There should probably be pictures of the process before a sticky.
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#28
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OK, out with the Red, in with the Ivory, I think this is a huge improvement!
A big Red TV is OK if you're furnishing a Retro Diner or a Childs room, but not in the Living Room of the average home. |
#29
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Yes, much better I really like the gold on Ivory look and the metal knobs will look great. The grille cloth looks good too.
After several layers of paint, is the recessed lettering still distinct enough to rub in paint ? I hope so. Looks like you left the feet unpainted / dark - nice touch |
#30
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I like it. Once the gold knobs (and possibly gold lettering) are added, that will look really sharp.
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Audiokarma |
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