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  #1  
Old 11-20-2016, 12:29 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Tech-Master NIB TV Kit #5516

Guys,

I won this 1955 TV kit NIB at an auction today. It does not come with a CRT.

The parts haven't even been removed from the carton! I talked to the seller and he said that he removed the instruction sheet to see what CRT it uses, but he didn't have that type. Otherwise completely unmolested. Because he already looked at the instruction sheet, I pulled them from the envelope.

What a find!

Of course the real question is should I keep it this way or build it?

Photobucket isn't cooperating so no pictures right now. I did post some pictures over on ARF.
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Old 11-20-2016, 10:40 AM
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Kevin Kuehn Kevin Kuehn is offline
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I wouldn't have any reservations building that. Looks like any 70 degree electrostatic focus CRT could work, but I'm guessing that chassis is set up for a 17" tube, like a 17HP4.

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Old 11-20-2016, 11:39 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Some pictures.













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Old 11-20-2016, 11:41 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Kevin,
Thanks for the reply. I needed that info for a CRT! Where did you get it? Was it a page from an Allied Catalog or such?
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Old 11-20-2016, 11:49 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I also think it uses a magnetic focused CRT. There is a fly-back transformer and the schematic shows a HV lead going to a 2nd anode on the CRT.

I think the ad has a typo.
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Old 11-20-2016, 12:18 PM
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Kevin Kuehn Kevin Kuehn is offline
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The listing is from my 1956 Burstein Applebee Co. Radio Master catalog.

Magnetically deflected, but electrostatic focus, unless your kit came with a electromagnetic focus coil? Your build manual must share some information on compatible picture tubes?
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Old 11-20-2016, 05:56 PM
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wa2ise wa2ise is offline
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Get new caps instead of using the wax caps that came with it, also use new electrolytics too.

Be careful, it looks like a hot chassis set.

And be sure that the CRT you use has the same heater current as that of the heater string.
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Old 11-20-2016, 10:33 PM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wa2ise View Post
Get new caps instead of using the wax caps that came with it, also use new electrolytics too.

Be careful, it looks like a hot chassis set.

And be sure that the CRT you use has the same heater current as that of the heater string.
It's a low B+ hot chassis design, similar to the AC-DC Emerson set I just restored.
The CRT used would be a 17HP4, 20HP4 or a 21YP4. I would stick with the 17HP4 type, as the design is a slightly lower high voltage supply, intended for smaller screen sets.
I see it uses the tried and true synchro-guide horizontal circuit.
All the CRT's at the time were 600 ma, 6.3volt heaters.
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Old 11-20-2016, 11:52 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
It's a low B+ hot chassis design, similar to the AC-DC Emerson set I just restored.
The CRT used would be a 17HP4, 20HP4 or a 21YP4. I would stick with the 17HP4 type, as the design is a slightly lower high voltage supply, intended for smaller screen sets.
I see it uses the tried and true synchro-guide horizontal circuit.
All the CRT's at the time were 600 ma, 6.3volt heaters.
Yeah, I checked the specs and a 19QP4 is a 12K CRT. That would be a good one too...right?
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Old 11-21-2016, 10:45 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crist Rigott View Post
Yeah, I checked the specs and a 19QP4 is a 12K CRT. That would be a good one too...right?
Isn't the 19QP4 a Dumont type round tube?
The number is not familiar to me and I've seen a lot of old TV's, but not real many Dumonts.
Unless you meant, 14QP4?
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Old 11-21-2016, 11:18 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
Isn't the 19QP4 a Dumont type round tube?
The number is not familiar to me and I've seen a lot of old TV's, but not real many Dumonts.
Unless you meant, 14QP4?
No, it is not a round tube.

Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-03-2016 at 12:05 AM.
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  #12  
Old 11-20-2016, 11:50 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wa2ise View Post
Get new caps instead of using the wax caps that came with it, also use new electrolytics too.

Be careful, it looks like a hot chassis set.

And be sure that the CRT you use has the same heater current as that of the heater string.
Will do on all counts. Thanks
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  #13  
Old 11-23-2016, 01:36 PM
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benman94 benman94 is offline
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I've found that the 17, 20, and 21 inch tubes that specify a minimum ultor voltage will usually work WELL below the minimum recommended; a slight twist of the brightness control will usually suffice. Hell, my Philco 48-1000 refuses to put out more than about 6.5 kV, but the 10BP4 in it still shows a nice watchable, if not terribly bright, picture.
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Old 11-23-2016, 01:46 PM
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Kevin Kuehn Kevin Kuehn is offline
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I agree, although I believe there becomes more of a focus issue as the deflection angle increases.
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Old 11-27-2016, 08:18 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I checked my Riders index and they cover the 5516! The index lists 18-3 and 21-13. I have Riders for TV vol. 2 thru 12. IIRC Tech-Master 630 chassis is covered in volume 4. Riders included not only the electrical but also mechanical info. Screw sizes etc. I'm thinking that maybe this information would also be included for my 5516 chassis.

Does anybody have these volumes and could you check to see what Riders shows? It would be really appreciated if I could get a copy of those pages.

Thanks.
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