#16
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Help! Wire gone astray!
Okay CTC-9 owners.... I need some help. I've got a stray wire just chillin out with nothing to do. I'm trying to figure out where he goes.
It's located on the top side of the chassis towards the rear. It comes thru a hole right between the two 6CG7 tubes in the color section. It has brown insulation. I am assuming it connects somewhere around the fuse block and that heavy duty resistor. If anyone could take a look at their 9, I would appreciate it!
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Charlie Trahan He who dies with the most toys still dies. |
#17
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Could it just be a gimmick or a test point?
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#18
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eric,
I had considered that, and it looks that it could very well be. They point to a TP1 on page 14 in the Sams 459-1. The picture is not entirely clear right there and it's kinda hard to make out exactly what the arrow points to. I had traced the other end to the underside and it connects to the same place as R159. In the schematic, there is a test point on one side of that R159.
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Charlie Trahan He who dies with the most toys still dies. |
#19
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strange wire
it is indeed a test point. i believe you ground that wire for the adjustment of the 3.58mhz oscillatar. steve
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#20
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Cool! Then a test point it is! Thanks for your help guys.
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Charlie Trahan He who dies with the most toys still dies. |
Audiokarma |
#21
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Very Nice Find
Hey Charlie, very nice find, congrats! I haven't even begun work on my Windslow yet, I'm saving that for my winter project. Keep up posted.
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#22
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Thanks, Uni. I am in the process of gathering caps for it right now. I've got everything I need except that 2 mfd cap that goes on the video board.
I think I will find my problem in the HV. I've let the chassis run without the horz and HV tubes in place, and everything seems OK. The flyback looks like it might be at fault. I see a little burn spot on one side of it that looks like might have leaked HV. Doesn't look severe, but just enough to probably cause a problem. I'll wait till I get the new caps in before turning on the HV. There is one thing about this set I've learned so far... getting the chassis in and out of the cabinet requires holding it prefectly straight! If you tilt it ever so slightly, it gets wedged in the cabinet. There is a piece of wood just above the tuner that gives almost ZERO clearance when trying to remove the chassis.
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Charlie Trahan He who dies with the most toys still dies. |
#23
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Making progress
Got my first picture out of the CTC9. It ain't great, but at least it's alive. Not much audio either. Still have some things to go through. Picture is pretty unstable and obviously isn't filling the screen completely. Later tonight I will try swapping some tubes out.
Main problem turned out to be a high voltage leak at the flyback. A temporary piece of cardboard in the path of the arc stopped that. Will get some silicon caulk to fix that. Also, the 2mfd lytic on the video board was completely shot. Two of the electrolytic cans turned out being backwards in the set compared to the layout in the Sams diagram. Didn't realize it till I had half of them changed. Talk about pissed off! So, that gave me an excuse to go drink a few beers before rewiring everything a second time around. My attitude was a little better after a few drinks! I fly out Monday to meet the ship in Bayonne, NJ, so today is probably the last time I get to play with the set till I return. I have to spend this weekend getting ready to go. That sucks... just when I felt like I was making progress! Oh well... I'll have something to look forward to when I return in late August.
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Charlie Trahan He who dies with the most toys still dies. Last edited by Charlie; 06-27-2003 at 07:36 PM. |
#24
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flyback
the set is looking good. i have an extra flyback for my 2 ctc9,s and my 2 ctc10,s and one for the sears silvertone i bought of ebay. moyer electronice probley has one for your ctc9. i would buy an extra even though you might fix yours. i always try to buy an extra fly for my sets just in case. try moyer at. www.moyerelectronics.com tell them steve sent you.
also remember to solder the boards in your ctc9 most important is the ground connections at the chassis. steve |
#25
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Thanks, Steve. I will look into that. This flyback has already been worked on before, so an extra spare would probably be a good idea.
Here's another shot without the camera flash turned on. The previous photo kinda got washed out from the flash.
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Charlie Trahan He who dies with the most toys still dies. |
Audiokarma |
#26
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Knobs
Also,
If anyone happens to have any spare knobs they wouldn't mind parting with, I could use a few. My channel selector and vol/bright knobs are a bit worn. Most important, I am missing a color/tint knob (the one on the left in the photo). Thanks
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Charlie Trahan He who dies with the most toys still dies. |
#27
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charlies ctc-9
hi charlie,you say your picture tube is an "21CYP22A"
how do the reds look on it..?,it looks great so far,nice set!! I have a ctc-5 coming yet and put my ctc-7 up for sale,but not on e-bay,i just dont know yet what kinda room i will have once i move.. terry |
#28
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Terry,
It does have the 21CYP22A. Here are some quickie colors. The reds seem okay so far. The screen needs to be demagnetized. Haven't had much to do any further work to it. Been itchin' really bad to go out there and change the last few caps, but I spent most of today tieing up loose ends before returning to sea. Will be packing and shutting down stuff in the house tomorrow. I hate getting ready to go back to work!
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Charlie Trahan He who dies with the most toys still dies. |
#29
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vertical lineraty
my ctc 9 chass i restored also had vertical hight problems after all electrolytic caps were changed. i changed all the orange drops on the vertical output board and everything is fine now. i guess they had a lot of stress on them even though they were orange drops {or mine were brown} steve
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#30
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horrizontal board
there is also a black beauty cap on the horizontal osc. board change that also. i believe it is .01 @ 600v steve
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Audiokarma |
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