#31
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That's probably what I'm going to do, however it makes a nice test jig for some crazy ideas and figuring out how to adapt a CRT tester via homemade connections and rejuvenation attempts. Figure of I was going to waste a CRT on accident, this would be a good learning curve. It was free after all. All in the name of science..lol. I'm going to use the chassis for an RGB mod possibly for a NEO GEO arcade unit.
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Honey, turn on the tv.. I'm cold! Last edited by freakaftr8; 09-10-2019 at 11:21 AM. |
#32
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One way to make a universal universal (as in should work on any tester and CRT) is to find a junk scope that uses the same base as a 10BP4 (and 90% of CRTs pre1960), Rob the base off the scope tube and populate clip leads onto the pins for the gun of a 10BP4. Nearly all testers had settings and socket to test a 10BP4 so if you build a socket that adapts that to clip leads that socket will adapt almost any tester to almost any CRT...It will only one gun at a time, and you'll have to label your clip leads and consult the pinout of the tube you want to test, but it sure beats having no adapter at all.
This is exactly the universal adapter I made when I decided I wanted one. I color coded my leads based on the color code for the red gun leads in a color CRT, and have a good enough handle on which of those are what element that I can hook them up to a monochrome the (which used a different color code than a color tube) if I know or can see the pinout through the glass. Most testers only need 2 H leads, a K, a G1, and a G2 to work.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 Last edited by Electronic M; 09-10-2019 at 12:17 PM. |
#33
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Got bored today while waiting on some caps on order for my CTC-16..
With the junk CRT tester I have connected to the heater voltage on this Sony, I performed something that came to mind.. A little experiment of sorts. I notice that when I jump the voltage up to around 8V, I get green saturation that seems to lack at 6.3v. With heaters running at normal voltage I get green smearing to the right and in kind of reddish whites. I would jump the CRT voltage to around 12 and without hitting the tube with a rejuvenator, I would hold it there in tap the back of the neck well I bring it the heater voltage back to 6.3v. I did this roughly 10 times and when to hold it at the 12v for about 10 minutes each time. And every minute I would tap the neck with the handle of a screwdriver. (This is because every time at high heater voltage, the green would flicker in if I tapped the neck) Every time I would bring it back down to 6.3, the picture Room go back to a murky reddish color with greeny whites with some smearing. After about the 5th or 6th time running at 12 V I had a massive amount of green saturation, Then the picture went bright green with retrace lines. At that point I brought it back down to 6.3 and the green screen with the retrace slowly faded back down. Suddenly I had the picture you see here. No more blur Or smearing at all. On a neck of the CRT by measuring a 143 V on the green where I had a 111 V before . Blue and red measure about a 148 V. Is this the AKB circuit balancing the guns? I didn't thing. Set of this vintage has auto kine bias.. But man, surprisingly it looks way better. I had to rebalance the drives to compensate for the sudden green gun improvement. Red seems better too from early on with the crazy chassis derived rejuvenation I did. Lol. I'm close to dumping this thing off to e waste, but thought I'd have some fun with it. Now it looks really good... Wonder for how long. It's been on all day and still looks surprisingly good. oh well.
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Honey, turn on the tv.. I'm cold! |
#34
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Can almost guarantee this set dont have AKB. It has adjustments.
Besides Sonys AKB will cause the video to blink on & off with a jug as soft as this one especially when cold. I asked Sony why once & they said they didnt want sets with soft CRT's cause they are like billboards screaming "Sony pixs suck!". 73 Zeno LFOD ! |
#35
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I kinda figured. that system was not implemented till the late 80s early 90s.
Left it on all night again. Still really good! Drastic improvement from when I first got it. Looks almost as good as the CRT on my Sony KV3000R (which is perfect). Neat technique I came up with. Possibly overheating the cathodes temporarily in bursts may have burned away some of the contamination on the cathodes. of course this is purely speculation. Lol kids playing Donkey Kong Super Nintendo.
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Honey, turn on the tv.. I'm cold! Last edited by freakaftr8; 10-08-2019 at 12:05 AM. |
Audiokarma |
#36
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Maybe I did something close to what this VKer did except I used no transformer on the G1 circuit since the G1 was already activated with the TV on during my process.
http://www.videokarma.org/archive/in.../t-257458.html It appears that the Trinitron cathodes, being paper thin, can actually be cleaned by non destructive CRT whacking with a full on rejuvenation, but merely by burning the cathodes clean with extreme heater voltage. In sessions. Not sure how or why, but heck, it worked, and unlike Alastair's design, I was actually seeing this happen since it was on ar the time.
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Honey, turn on the tv.. I'm cold! |
#37
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Btw. Never posted a pic of how it looked when I got it. This is after I turned down the B drive. It was really blue and looked nasty.
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Honey, turn on the tv.. I'm cold! |
#38
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I have however, have really crappy poor outer focus. Any ideas? Possibly a poor flyback or divider block?
Btw, heres a shot of the KV3000R in the same room.
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Honey, turn on the tv.. I'm cold! Last edited by freakaftr8; 10-08-2019 at 11:01 AM. |
#39
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Quick question as to screen readings? Is this an inclusive test to show how much the CRT is biasing each gun? I've always thought the closer these readings are to each other, the better the CRT is. Am I correct?
It seems that the longer I run this thing, the better the picture is getting and these readings are coming closer together. in the last day I've had to back off on the green and red a bit.
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Honey, turn on the tv.. I'm cold! Last edited by freakaftr8; 10-10-2019 at 01:44 AM. |
#40
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I tested the screen grids on a small 14 inch Trinitron CRT computer monitor I have here at work that's built into a CNC machine. They range all from 131v to 138v. Pretty close to each other. This CRT puts out a great picture. Guess that answers that. If one is low, that's the cathode in trouble.
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Honey, turn on the tv.. I'm cold! |
Audiokarma |
#41
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Ok.. so that outer focus problem just cured itself. Well I mean it's alot better.. it's been slowly getting better over the last 2 days.
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Honey, turn on the tv.. I'm cold! Last edited by freakaftr8; 10-12-2019 at 12:58 AM. |
#42
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No, I think the KV-2601 was out before this one, that one was more stripped down (it's not even a remote control set). However this is the one of the Poltergeist TVs, which is pretty cool.
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#43
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Lol I did this. I was bored. Even the time in the clock is matched. First pic is from the movie, second is mine.
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Honey, turn on the tv.. I'm cold! |
#44
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Btw, CRT is still holding strong. Had to make a correction on the red and back it off slightly.
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Honey, turn on the tv.. I'm cold! |
#45
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Still looking like a Trinitron should look. Ran about 3-4 hours a day. Picture seems really good after spending a few hours with convergence and pincushion corrections.
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Honey, turn on the tv.. I'm cold! |
Audiokarma |
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