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#1
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http://www.walshcomptech.com/repairf...une.htm#rcasuc
Write down all numbers before you make a change. Dont touch tuner settings BUT do record them just in case. |
#2
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hey if you can live with it that's all that matters.
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#3
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I always liked those set, mostly made a lot money off them and zeniths with the (maybe) 9-169 modules. its been a long time ago.
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#4
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can you post some pics
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#5
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Pictures of Issue
Pictures have been posted in my Album. If you click on my name. I added three pictures. I didn’t get picture of TV Flashing & Fluttering when turned on in morning when a Set is Cold. I turn it off & wait a few minutes then comes on & works fine. I presume that may be an issue in tuner soldering since it doesn’t do that on S Video?
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Audiokarma |
#6
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well the tuner issues is popping off station, TV turn off and back on just strange things. when RCA built the sets they used solder that was not the best quality and poorly soldered the grounds in the tuner. the solder will break apart and cause the voltage to go crazy and the microcomputer to change data in the e prom where the data is stored and the e prom would go bad.
from what i can tell it needs a setup, but 99% of the adjustments are the serve menu, but i suggest turn the picture control or contrast control down until it stops smearing or use s-video. let it play and see what happens. i looked the model no up and the chassis no is ctc177, maybe zeno or john can chime in. |
#7
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I was able to get into the Service Menu to where you can adjust your bias and Drive settings. I turned the Blue down on both of them. Also, made slight adjustments to the green. I do not seem to have the Blue bleeding out. I still do have a slight outline of some objects in blue if looking real close to set. However, when setting in my easy chair the picture to me looks better. This was done with the Picture Level turned down and the brightness increased. I guess, I talked to a Local TV Repairman and he told me not to run the set too much until I get the connections at my tuner fixed. He said it may make the e prom go out totally.
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#8
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Quote:
I still have a couple of dozen of those stupid eeproms if something goes wrong. Most were the same except for features. I used to stock most of the higher featured ones to cover all the models. John |
#9
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I think, my Parents 1991 Zenith Console Set had a somewhat similar issue with the tuner ground. I can remember how it worked and worked with no known issues. Then one day in about 2011 or so we turned it on and we had a picture then in a few minutes when to snow. I fiddled around with the tuner on the main board and could get a picture if I propped up the tuner with a pencil or something. I can remember it was all going good until I was going to take it to a TV Shop. Then I somehow messed with it and hit something and the set went totally dead. We ended up having a replacement main board put in it. It ran for several more years after that. This set will only go to snow or start rolling, etc. usually after it's been on a few minutes the first thing in the morning. Then it seems to not act up the other times during the day when it's turned back on. I can't get it in the Shop until next week. I was hoping to get by with it until then?
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#10
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RCA Connection Versus Coax Cable Connection
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Thanks. |
Audiokarma |
#11
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Quote:
I remember the first time we saw one of these in warranty shortly after they were in production- it came in with no sound. Back then, we didn't have the tricks we used later to recover the eeprom but just replaced the chip. It came back a week later with no sound. I changed the eeprom again and while it was running, I tapped the chassis board with the back end of a 1/4" driver like I did for years. The picture blinked and came back, but sound went out. Eeprom corrupted again. I called RCA tech support and they told me about resoldering the two heatsink tabs. This was before the tuners started acted up. Later on they issued a "goldenrod" bulletin on that. John EDIT: it's time consuming, but as long as the TV is running, I'd go in the service menu and write down every value, particularly the tuner parameters if you ever plan to use the tuner again. There were places selling "pre-programmed" eeproms but there is no such thing. On an analogue TV, every one is unique and quite different. If your eeprom goes bad, you can certainly readjust the grey scale, horiz osc, vert, etc., but the tuner will need to be aligned with a generator. RCA equipped the ASCs with a very clever device (frequency agile generator) that would output any channel on VHF Lo, Hi, UHF, and all cable bands. It had three attenuator switches and all you needed was a voltmeter to do a perfect tuner alignment. Using the attenuators, you could actually do it by eye. I still have the tuner aligner, one of the few things I didn't toss when we switched from CRTs to flats virtually overnight. Last edited by JohnCT; 12-30-2020 at 05:22 PM. |
#12
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Blue Outline
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Thanks. |
#13
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Those RCAs were built for cost, but I have to tell you, design wise they were very well sorted. There were no "that's just the way they are" performance issues. Even when put behind a 35" tube, they produced a very nice artifact free picture. As far as convergence, all RCAs of that era used a pre-yammed yoke and a flexible magnetic convergence/purity band in place of the mechanical beam bender that everyone else used, and I can state categorically that in the thousands of those I had repaired over the years, I never had a convergence issue on any of them. Generally, a blue outline is a weak CRT, but the halo would not be static: it would change and flare outward with contrast and brightness level. If you see the halo at very low brightness levels, I would say it's not a weak tube. If the tube is strong, I'd lean towards a bad jungle IC causing that. Uncommon but I've seen them. I can't think of anything in the eeprom that would cause that. John |
#14
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The set is 25 years old and i believe the tuner has been done. When new they went a couple of years before they grounds had to be redone. make sure your color is off and you have a good grayscale when setting drives and bias and enjoy it. The blue out line is convergence and it was never perfect. Those were one of my favorite sets. in Atlanta they were everywhere. those sets and the zenith system 3 sets has a place in my heart.
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#15
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The parameter for each would stay at 0. I’m thinking blue is caused from weak CRT. Blue really flames outward around lettering etc. when TV is set back to original setting of the blue drive & leaving picture level at factory setting. No luck of eliminating excess blue color in some pictures even with picture, bright, & color tweaked way down. The only way to get it as good as I can is leave blue drive & bias down which in turn gives a somewhat greenish cast to white.
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Audiokarma |
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