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#1
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are recapped tube radios safe?
I have just done my second recap and I plan on using this radio it's an Admial clock radio since it's a clock it will need to be plugged in 24/7. I heat shrinked almost every cap and the radio seems to work well altho it took awhile to "fire up". I do not have a tube tester so I do not know how good the tubes are. So am I safe? Can old radios be left plugged in,or are tube radios just pretty do dads for shelf clutter?
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#2
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If you recapped the radio and it's now working fine, leaving it plugged in is not problem at all. You mentioned that it took a while to fire up. What do you mean? That it took days/weeks to finish the recap? Or that it took more than 60 seconds or so to turn on? Tubes don't turn right on like solid state, they take a minute or so to warm up. Part of the magic!
How many kitchens do you imagine had one of these on top of the "ice-box" over the last half century? How many have you heard of catching fire? I know this one is older, now, but I wouldn't worry a bit. I had one in the bookcase headboard of my bed when I was a kid, turned way, way down late at night listening to White Sox games. I may just start looking for one of my own!
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I may be growing older, but I refuse to grow up. |
#3
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The radio section shouldn't see any power when off, only the clock would remain on and that doesn't have any circuitry.
Curious as to why you heat shrinked the capacitors....that COULD retain heat and possibly lead to early failure although that remains to be seen. All tube type devices require a warm up period to get them to function (except for some TVs from the early 70's which kept the picture tube filament slightly powered up) Anthony |
#4
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it took weeks to get the parts but the recap only took a few hours. It just took a bit longer then my other tube radios to come on the first time but I didn't count the seconds so I'm not sure hmm I could do a turn on drag race lol
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#5
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o I just heat shrinked the leads. I had the heat shrink and was trying to be "neat"
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Audiokarma |
#6
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If you're a natural "neatnik" you'll be great at this!!
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I may be growing older, but I refuse to grow up. |
#7
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As for fire safety, recapped tube radios in cabinets of that size and material should be fine. I don't think bakelite will burn that easily, and resistors overheated are not likely to light anything else on fire. Think of it as any other box that produces 30 watts of heat to be vented.
As for electrical safety, some older radios are not up to modern standards. Some sets that had the chassis directly tied to the line had screws protruding thru the bottom of the cabinet. Or hot volume control shafts that depended on the knob never getting lost for user protection. If the screws are machine type, you should be able to replace them with plastic screws. Sheet metal screws are more difficult. Maybe you can cut a machine screw thread in the sheet metal screw holes, or solder or glue on machine nuts. |
#8
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Quote:
Anthony |
#9
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OIC, that makes more sense to me! There's something called Liquid Electrical tape that comes in a can with a brush in the cap that is pretty slick for "painting" on exposed leads in tight areas...I use it on old cars with crumbling cloth covered wires for a quick and dirty patch job.
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#10
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They're *really dangerous* !!!! Wrap them all up in plastic and duct tape and send them directly to me.
All kidding aside, I used one of these for years. I unplugged it if i went on vacation or something. Unlike modern equipment, when you shut an old radio off, it is really off. The exception is the clock. These telchron clocks are of such a design that if the armature gets stopped, the coil doesnt overheat. I also have never heard of one of these catching on fire. I've seen them pretty old and cooked, even burned out, but no fire. Of course there are plenty of them out there with no clock if it concerns you. Enjoy it. |
Audiokarma |
#11
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Well my slow start seems to be worse then I thought The first time I plugged it in it wouldn't work so I pulled the tubes and cleaned the connections then it worked! but when I moved it into the bedroom it was dead so I pulled the back off of it and no tube glow. I'm thinking check the solder joints and wiring
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#12
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But I would check all of your tube connections again. If they have the heaters connected in series it will only take a bad connection on one of them to knock out the entire string. |
#13
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Didja spray any Deoxit in the tube sockets?
Anthony |
#14
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I don't have any deox so I used a cleaner for r/c cars (I love this stuff it's safe on plastic) I cleaned the tubes with alcohol. I did find one bad solder joint (not mine ! but it's still dead no tube glow. Should I try jiggling the tubes while it's on? I am almost thinking it's the power "switch" , I'll check it out with a multimeter whenever I'm not tired
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#15
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Don't jiggle the tubes while it's on, too much risk of touching something else and gettin your ass shorted out... If it worked after pulling and replacing the tubes, it prolly is just a bad connection there. Do any of the tubes feel at all loose in the sockets? Maybe try a narrow screwdriver down in the pin sockets to tighten up those little grabber contacts.
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Audiokarma |
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