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Just Found an Admiral T102
Hello everyone,
I just couldn't pass up a fairly clean 1957 Admiral model T102 which was looking for a new home at the Charlotte CC-AWA meet this weekend. I'm brand new not only here but to the vintage television hobby also because this T102 is my first. While searching the Internet for Admiral info I discovered Videokarma and joined up right away. I want to thank banderson for making his Admiral T102 restoration videos available and many others also for the excellent info which has been posted. I will probably need to learn more about television before I attempt to restore this as I'm more comfortable inside an antique radio right now but I can at least do the basics and maybe power it up for a baseline to see what we have. Work done up to this point is disassemble to clean dust away and make initial observations. What I see so far: Appears to be in pretty good shape overall but evident that it has been in the repair shop a couple of times. Paint is original but hex head screws have replaced the original phillips truss head cabinet screws. C1 and C2 have both been replaced with axials. C1 replacement axial was routed through the original's bakelite mounting plate, left hanging and is not secured. C3, C4, and C5 are the originals. The selenium power supply rectifiers have both been bridged with diodes and are still in circuit. Dual diode M3 is a service replacement and is mounted on the opposite side of the circuit board now. It can be seen just under the round cutout in the chassis brace under the CRT. Fuse resistor R83 is open which might have helped out here. Outside of recapping I like the hot chassis mods also mentioned and am planning to add those. Your thoughts? Thanks, Rusty Last edited by Rusty34; 04-15-2012 at 11:12 AM. |
#2
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As far as unrestored metal cabinet portables go that one looks as clean as one could hope for.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#3
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Welcome to Videokarma Rusty. I'm glad you enjoyed my videos. Yeah, that sure is clean. Nice score!
I think you meant to say you have a 10" model T102, rather than 1402. There is also model T142 as well with a 14" picture tube using the same chassis, but yours looks like the 10". Although it was a pain, pulling the CRT does allow you full access to the PC board between the seleniums. Once you can get at it, replacing the caps and out of spec resistors is a snap. Good luck! Last edited by bandersen; 03-26-2012 at 01:08 AM. |
#4
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Tuner is a weak spot. It is a big rotating disc that breaks loose from the shaft. It is usually repairable by pinning and/or epoxy. Make sure the disc is on the correct position and take some tension off the detent spring when done.
The Sangamo electrolytics are terrible. I see after market caps tacked in. Restuffed electrolytics will clean up the insides. Note ion trap position before removing the CRT. The set is a decent performer and should turn out well. |
#5
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Thanks for the replies and tips, much appreciated. More questions now though:
Would you do a short a baseline test after replacing the power supply caps but before going through all the caps and resistors in order to find out if there is any working order first? I don't have any experience with selenium rectifiers or the nasty failures I've heard about but I wonder why a past service tech soldered diodes in parallel with the original rectifiers? I just noticed it still has most of the original Admiral branded tubes. Should I test the CRT before initial power up? Don't have a CRT tester yet and don't know what to look for. What do you suggest? I do have a TV-7/DU and a Heathkit TT-1 and a Tektronix 453. Sorry about the model number mix-up. I edited my post to correct the mistakes but am unable to correct the title in the list of threads. Do the missing rabbit ear parts ever show up for these? Thanks, Rusty |
Audiokarma |
#6
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For sure I'd take those seleniums completely out of the circuit. Having them in parallel with diodes is a bad idea.
I'm always paranoid about damaging a CRT. Especially when it's a series filament wired set like this. If there's excessive current for some reason, there goes your CRT. So I like to take it out of the circuit and substiture for the filament with a 10 ohm 5+ watt resistor. It's normally 6.3 VAC @ 0.6A. That's where I got the 10 ohm value. You can just pull the plug off the CRT and stick the resistor in the filament holes. Those are on either side of the key: http://www.bunkerofdoom.com/tubes/sy...S/10ABP4_1.JPG I don't think these sets came with an antenna. I think the ones we've seen in photos are after market accessories. |
#7
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I'm buying a nice clean Admiral 102 through one of my audio associates who inherited his. It isn't as clean as the one here, but is close.
Can't wait to dig in and restore it...Tired of working on solid state. The tube tests good on a B&K 470 adapter socket for life-test at 6.3V heater and those selenium rectifiers are present. |
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