#16
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Wrong. Zenith did make 25" screen hybrid sets (I know your set is solid state). I have a Sam's folder that shows that my hybrid chassis was used in both 23" and 25" sets.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#17
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PS I thought Black Matrix, and Black Stripe were references to the material between the color dots, and tri-color box groups, being a black non reflective, or light absorbing color, as opposed to being reflective to try and transmit more light out the front of the screen..... I had a Toshiba hybrid set where the material between the dots looked silvery, it had a poor quality picture, and colors were not that great either.... Those were the years when tv ads had the tv at one end of a football field, and they were making a point of how bright they made the picture.....
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Yes you can call me "Squirrel boy" Last edited by Username1; 03-03-2014 at 06:28 PM. |
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So Tom (zeno), what do the stickers tell you? I'm still a bit confused. I'm not sure what year the Chromacolor came out; I think '72 was the first year for the flat chassis Super Chromacolor. BTW, where's the volume stepper in this thing? I've got to find out where to shoot the DeOxit once I get some. EDIT: Well, finding the problem with the tuner drive didn't take long. I was trying to find the rocker you spoke of when I noticed that the tab wheel was missing its screws. I don't have many around here, but I managed to borrow one from my 600X remote. That was enough for testing before it went out of alignment. The 600X remote works everything just fine, I just have to think of the button layout of a 500 when I use it. The orange button does nothing on this set, check. I guess it's off to the hardware store to get proper screws and lock washers. Last edited by Jon A.; 03-03-2014 at 10:50 PM. |
#19
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Chromacolor came out in 1969. Flat chassis sets were referred to as Super Chromacolors but I dont remember if the sets were marked that way. Supers were also an improved Chromacolor CRT but I think its only the HV went from 25KV to 30KV & maybe better phosphers. Flat chassis probably started in 1971 B line but probably only used as a test & show set, not known to be sold. C line 1972 (25CC55) first year. D line 1973 (25DC56) saw change in power supply. E line 1974 ( ? 25DC56 again ?) last year, was replaced by upright chassis (25EC45) part way through the year. Stickers give the important details but I dont know the run # scheme. Maybe a minor change in suppliers etc. to pinpoint problems. I do know the 4 lead caps were only on sets run 401 & higher E line uprights. before that they used seperate caps like yours. Volume stepper is only exposed relay in box on L side of set. I dont remember them getting dirty so a little light tapping around should pinpoint it. BTW The rocker is under the cardboard. Caps: 2 on FBT & 3 underneath IIRC. Marked 22-5001. White bad, orange good. Bad ones are hard on the HOT, tripler, focus divider & CRT socket. If enuf go you get a spectacular arc show ! 73 Zeno |
#20
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Yup, got to replace those caps for sure just to be safe. At least that's one thing I don't need specialized equipment for. What exactly would I replace them with, and how much voltage is running through them? Should I just short them to drain the charge?
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Audiokarma |
#21
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If you need to substitute get advice from the cap expert here, but I dont remember his name. You HAVE to use the right thing unless you want to see fire trucks........... 73 Zeno |
#22
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Yup, I certainly don't want to burn up this set. The replacement caps will have to wait for now as I'm pretty broke from moving expenses, and I would like to find a local source for leaded solder. Of course I'll avoid running the set until the caps are replaced. In the meantime though, it would be nice to know the substitute cap number. BTW, are these caps polarized? I don't want to swap ends and blow it up even with the right caps.
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#23
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Alright, I received the OEM safety caps recently, bought out the last of Talon Electronics' stock. They had just enough. Does it matter which way these go in?
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#24
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If they have a stripe match it but the are not polarized.
Will work anyways...... 73 Zeno |
#25
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At long last I got some Kester and installed the new safety caps. There's only one under the chassis. I also cleaned the crud off the back of the CRT and the 2nd anode cap and cleaned the volume control and now the set works fairly well. I hooked up a pattern generator and finally got vertical size and linearity adjusted properly. There is one issue: the whole picture is shifted slightly to the right. I can't find a horizontal centering control.
The picture doesn't do the set justice. Edit: Got rid of the Garfield DVDs and re-took the picture when playing an episode of Corner Gas. I had to have a more adult version of infantile. Great, the first pic was sideways and this is worse. What gives? Last edited by Jon A.; 09-19-2016 at 11:17 PM. |
Audiokarma |
#26
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For shift look at the 9-57 board for a 330 ohm.
Change it to a 1 watt film if it hasnt been. Upright chassii with the 9-90 board have the same issue. Recheck that you changed ALL the 22-5001 caps. I am sure these had 5. Check for a 1.5 ohm at the HOT base, they drift. Be sure the hoz hold is centered. Pix should snap right in on channel change & not show lines. If its at the end pull back on the sleeve & move it past the stop. I dont remember either size or centering on these. And last it could be what you are feeding it. 73 Zeno |
#27
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Very, very nice Zenith. My 1973 Zenith set uses the 25DC56 chassis, only it is not Space Command.
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"If you wish to make an apple pie from scratch, you must first invent the universe." -Carl Sagan Last edited by TUD1; 03-12-2017 at 06:57 PM. |
#28
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Here's a photo of yours from my brochure. It's a Canadian brochure, hence the odd advertised screen size. Last edited by Jon A.; 07-23-2016 at 11:14 PM. |
#29
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I see only one film cap on that board; is that the one I'm looking for? (see pic). Also, is there any way to add a direct video input to this thing? The picture I get through that cheap Radio Shack RF modulator is rather disappointing.
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#30
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( 330) to r-r-org ( 22K). I remember where it was on a 9-90 but not a 9-57. You can put video in just after the detector. It usually works good but sometimes not. Audio I would have to see the schematic. Try using a VCR as a modulator first. 73 Zeno |
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