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  #16  
Old 11-02-2018, 10:59 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeno View Post
Wow I dont think even Shango could get this running !
What a rust bucket. Start with a vert out then some new dag coating.
Then watch it burn up..........

73 Zeno
LFOD !
I was thinking that very thing myself!
Pull the CRT, yoke, convergence and maybe the flyback and ditch the rest.
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  #17  
Old 11-02-2018, 11:55 AM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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My zombie Sylvania D16 was about that bad and it was able to run decently after a lot of work.
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  #18  
Old 11-02-2018, 05:32 PM
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There's a challenge if I ever saw one.

I would strip out every bit of metal first and give it all a good soak in white vinegar, brushing off loose rust every once in a while. When taking the stuff out of the bath hose it off immediately, the residual rust loves to stain the surface if allowed to dry. Then, just to be certain everything's okay I'd wash it off in a baking soda and water solution to neutralize any remaining acid from the vinegar. Got to hose if off again after that, the baking soda will leave streaks.
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  #19  
Old 11-02-2018, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeno View Post
Wow I dont think even Shango could get this running !
What a rust bucket. Start with a vert out then some new dag coating.
Then watch it burn up..........

73 Zeno
LFOD !

"Watch it burn up" is right! As badly rusted as the chassis is, it will probably do just that the moment it is plugged in, if the house fuse doesn't blow first, the chassis starts smoldering, or outright catches fire. This set probably sat out in the rain heaven only knows how long, which also did major damage to the circuitry. I would salvage as much as possible from the set (knobs, tubes, etc.) and put the rest out for the trash.

The CRT is likely shot as well, judging from the severe cataract. In any event, this set, IMO, is not worth repairing. I can't begin to imagine what other severe damage, aside from what is shown here, may have been and probably was done to the chassis. If the set had been rescued before the chassis began to rust, it may have been repairable, but not in its present condition. As I said, salvage any good parts, then put the rest of the set in the trash. It is no good for anything else.
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Last edited by Jeffhs; 11-02-2018 at 08:23 PM.
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  #20  
Old 11-02-2018, 08:21 PM
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Jeffhs Jeffhs is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
On some of those I used to rewire those switches and just make it an on-off function. I told the owner's they didn't need that instant on feature.
In my previous entry it should have been "taken over by Sanyo".
Another way to disable the instant-on feature is to remove the diode across the power switch (I think this may be what you meant by "rewiring" the switch). These diodes often shorted after lightning strikes, effectively locking the AC switch in the "on" position. Removing the diode restored the switch function, but of course eliminated the instant-on feature. It was just as well, as instant-on kept the tube filaments on (albeit at low power), which was a waste of electricity. Remember, these TVs were made in the 1970s during the so-called "energy crisis", and many people did not like the idea of their TVs effectively being permanently "on" even when not in use, not to mention the potential fire hazard. Many folks requested that the instant-on feature be disabled when other work on the set was needed.
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  #21  
Old 11-02-2018, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffhs View Post
"Watch it burn up" is right! As badly rusted as the chassis is, it will probably do just that the moment it is plugged in, if the house fuse doesn't blow first, the chassis starts smoldering, or outright catches fire. This set probably sat out in the rain heaven only knows how long, which also did major damage to the circuitry. I would salvage as much as possible from the set (knobs, tubes, etc.) and put the rest out for the trash.

The CRT is likely shot as well, judging from the severe cataract. In any event, this set, IMO, is not worth repairing. I can't begin to imagine what other severe damage, aside from what is shown here, may have been and probably was done to the chassis. If the set had been rescued before the chassis began to rust, it may have been repairable, but not in its present condition. As I said, salvage any good parts, then put the rest of the set in the trash. It is no good for anything else.
Cataracts are fixable. And chassis rust affects nothing...As long as the chassis has not rusted through or otherwise become structurally weak.


As long as the transformers are good (70% chance) and no PCBs have lost structural integrity it can be restored...Every carbon resistor is probably off tolerance, and there are going to be some oddball problems, but that can be fixed.
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  #22  
Old 11-04-2018, 12:32 AM
dtryon dtryon is offline
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Well, if your goal is for everyone to say "Wow, how did you make that work?" then this is the one to work on! I'm not sure though what you'd have when you finished with it. Would you save it in your collection or what would you do with it? It would never really be anything safe to allow to play or watch for any period of time and it will never look nice in your collection. I admit it would be an interesting challenge but just not sure what a person would do with it when finished. I'm just thinking out loud here and not wanting to insult anyone. Once again, "Wow what a mess".

Dennis
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  #23  
Old 11-04-2018, 12:44 AM
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dishdude dishdude is offline
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Sets that don't look like they were pulled out of the ocean are a challenge enough. I'd look for another to save.
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  #24  
Old 11-04-2018, 03:05 AM
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I had a Hitachi console that was in really poor shape and ended up scrapping it, a move I later regretted as it was such an interesting set. I won't be making the same mistake with the Bradford/GE mongrel I got last year. That one's a low priority with me though as it'll probably never see regular use.

By the way, upon closer inspection of that photo I noticed that the top of the HV cage has rusted through as well as the main chassis where it meets the cage. For those spots I'd break out the Bondo, as long as the rest of the metal isn't severely compromised.

One thing to consider, tube color portables are hard to come by in any condition.
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  #25  
Old 11-05-2018, 11:51 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffhs View Post
Another way to disable the instant-on feature is to remove the diode across the power switch (I think this may be what you meant by "rewiring" the switch). These diodes often shorted after lightning strikes, effectively locking the AC switch in the "on" position. Removing the diode restored the switch function, but of course eliminated the instant-on feature. It was just as well, as instant-on kept the tube filaments on (albeit at low power), which was a waste of electricity. Remember, these TVs were made in the 1970s during the so-called "energy crisis", and many people did not like the idea of their TVs effectively being permanently "on" even when not in use, not to mention the potential fire hazard. Many folks requested that the instant-on feature be disabled when other work on the set was needed.
What you're referring to is the simple B/W portables that only used the low voltage B+ circuit and series heaters.
The color sets used a more involved switching scheme using two separate switches, one SPDT and one SPST. The SPST cut the B+ and the SPDT controlled the heaters. It seemed the SPDT side was the one that went bad.
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  #26  
Old 12-01-2018, 03:16 AM
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LADR LADR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtryon View Post
Well, if your goal is for everyone to say "Wow, how did you make that work?" then this is the one to work on! I'm not sure though what you'd have when you finished with it. Would you save it in your collection or what would you do with it? It would never really be anything safe to allow to play or watch for any period of time and it will never look nice in your collection. I admit it would be an interesting challenge but just not sure what a person would do with it when finished. I'm just thinking out loud here and not wanting to insult anyone. Once again, "Wow what a mess".

Dennis
I think I’m going to see if it does anything, after that I’m pulling the flyback, CRT and tubes and rest of the set will go to the trash.
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