Philco 37-611 Restoration

[bandersen]

Originally Posted by sean

Be careful about swapping 12V tubes out for 6V tubes. The 6V tubes generally draw 300mA on the filament while the 12V tubes draw 150mA. Same thing between a 25L6 and 50L6.

Ah, good point. I hadn't thought about that.

[bandersen]

I removed the power / tone control in the hopes i could fix it. I carefully pried back the four tabs holding the AC switch portion on. I tried a few rounds of DeOxit. but it just wasn't helping.

So I drilled out the two small brass rivets to reveal some very corroded contacts. I buffed them using a toothpick and Simichrome then flushed it clean with more DeOxit. That did the trick

I didn't have any small rivets on hand so used some small brass tubing. I bent and flattened one end, fed it through and mushed the other end. Finally, I reattached it to the main body and bent the four tabs back. I wired it back into the radio and it's working like a charm.

[GuyIncognito]

It was pointed out on another forum some time ago (I think "nostalgiaair") that smaller hollow rivets/eyelets can still be obtained in quantity for wiring up dollhouses, of all things.

Check this out:

http://www.oakridgehobbies.com/index...its--3946.html

[bandersen]

LOL - I never would have guessed dollhouses...

I did some experimenting with both diode and capacitor droppers.

The diode circuit required about 14 ohm resistor that kicked out about 1.25 W.

I used a 11 uF cap (two 22 polarized back-to-back) and a 6.8 surge resistor that kicked out about 0.6 W. It also has a softer startup than the diode circuit so this is what I'll go with.
Next time i place a parts order, I'll get a proper non-polarized cap.

I also added a 1 A fuse for safety.

Thanks for all the tips

[Reece]

Love the watchmaker's skill on that switch. Bravo!