#16
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Ah, good point. I hadn't thought about that.
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#17
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I removed the power / tone control in the hopes i could fix it. I carefully pried back the four tabs holding the AC switch portion on. I tried a few rounds of DeOxit. but it just wasn't helping.
So I drilled out the two small brass rivets to reveal some very corroded contacts. I buffed them using a toothpick and Simichrome then flushed it clean with more DeOxit. That did the trick I didn't have any small rivets on hand so used some small brass tubing. I bent and flattened one end, fed it through and mushed the other end. Finally, I reattached it to the main body and bent the four tabs back. I wired it back into the radio and it's working like a charm. Last edited by bandersen; 02-04-2011 at 12:11 AM. |
#18
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It was pointed out on another forum some time ago (I think "nostalgiaair") that smaller hollow rivets/eyelets can still be obtained in quantity for wiring up dollhouses, of all things.
Check this out: http://www.oakridgehobbies.com/index...its--3946.html |
#19
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LOL - I never would have guessed dollhouses...
I did some experimenting with both diode and capacitor droppers. The diode circuit required about 14 ohm resistor that kicked out about 1.25 W. I used a 11 uF cap (two 22 polarized back-to-back) and a 6.8 surge resistor that kicked out about 0.6 W. It also has a softer startup than the diode circuit so this is what I'll go with. Next time i place a parts order, I'll get a proper non-polarized cap. I also added a 1 A fuse for safety. Thanks for all the tips |
#20
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Love the watchmaker's skill on that switch. Bravo!
__________________
Reece Perfection is hard to reach with a screwdriver. |
Audiokarma |
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