|
|
|
#16
03-02-2012, 04:08 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
With the help of a guideline, I finished applying all the decals. Not my favorite task at all
  
|
|
#18
03-02-2012, 09:09 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Yes, they're water-slide decals. Only a small amount of water is needed to slide them off their backer. I blot most of the excess off with a soft paper napkin and the remainder dries quickly.
|
|
#19
03-02-2012, 09:37 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I tell you what, you've done a lot of work to this set and its beautifull. I am really glad that people like yourself post step by step work and problems to so we learn diagnosis and quality repair. In my town I only know one person who knows repair but they are too busy for me to rely on. Every question I ask and every thread I read is electronics school to be honest. Keep em coming!
|
|
#20
03-04-2012, 12:24 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
The radio came with replacement electrolytics. I found the original part #s, did a web search and, amazingly, found someone selling a couple
 Check out the bulge in the one on the right. I wonder if it was made that way or did that much pressure build up inside ? I'm going to be cutting them open just below the lip on top and restuffing them.  I also sprayed on the first coat of gloss lacquer. 
|
| Audiokarma |
|
#22
03-04-2012, 08:13 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Thanks! I'm still fighting with one issue. There's a really loud buzzing all through the broadcast band. It mostly fades away when a strong station is tuned in. SW band is fine. All the specified tube voltages match the service info.
I've replaced every paper and mica cap except for the triple stacked one inside the 2nd IF can. It's a sandwich of 100pF, 100pF and a variable made from exposed sheets of mica. I hope I don't have to mess with it. Perhaps it's feedback or an AVC issue ?
|
|
#23
03-05-2012, 09:24 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Philco 39-30 Questions
Good morning. Great pictorial journal. It has helped me with the 39-30 I am working on.
I am nearly done with the electronics, but I have a couple of questions: Does yours have a separate antenna, or just use a longwire off the Antenna screw on the back? I have located a guy selling repro laser-cut backs for this model, but neither mine nor another I've seen photos of have mounting holes for a back. Do you have a source for the longer push-buttons for this model? I pick up the power transformer I located tomorrow, and look forward to aligning it and hearing it play. I had to replace all the rubber-coated wiring, even inside the IF cans. But it was a great learning laboratory for me. Thanks for taking the time to document the restoration. The couple of pictorial journals and YouTube clips on 39-30 restoration helped me a lot. I was nearly finished with mine before I discovered those, but I'll do a pictorial journal of my future restorations. Regards, Clarence imacdaddy757@yahoo.com
|
|
#24
03-05-2012, 12:24 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Where did you find the repro decals?
|
|
#25
03-05-2012, 01:01 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Clarence: this set is designed for a long wire antenna, can't take a loop. Bob: the buzzing--could be local interference, fluorescent light, etc. etc. Try the radio at another location. Try a ground. All that noisy junk wasn't around in 1939.
__________________
Reece Perfection is hard to reach with a screwdriver.
|
| Audiokarma |
|
#26
03-05-2012, 02:41 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Greetings, I did find a link for the longer style push buttons the 1939s used, including many of the 39-30 models:
http://www.renovatedradios.com/parts.html#pushbuttons The down side is they are $34.00, but that's for a set of eight.
|
|
#27
03-05-2012, 02:51 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
I got the decals from Radio Daze. Controls are set #DCL-39-25. The logo decal came from set #DCL-PH-HiFi. Just trim off the "High Fidelity" part. The font and spacing on the other logo decals is just not right. I'm pretty sure I got the pushbuttons from Antique Radio Knobs: http://www.antiqueradioknobs.com/partlistings.html There was no back on this radio. I don't think any 1930s Philco table top radios had backs for that matter. Quote:
|
|
#28
03-05-2012, 09:45 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Grounding the chassis did the trick
 The noise isn't completely gone, but it's significantly reduced.
|
|
#29
03-06-2012, 06:51 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Yay! Do you have "safety" caps where the line comes in? Sometimes one from each side of the line to chassis helps, and even on top of that some will put another across the line. These are always connected so that they are after the switch.
__________________
Reece Perfection is hard to reach with a screwdriver.
|
|
#30
03-06-2012, 02:03 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Yes, 0.015 uF X2 safety caps from each side to the chassis. One is after the switch. The other one is always in circuit.
|
| Audiokarma |
 |
|
|
Linear Mode
