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  #46  
Old 05-26-2018, 02:41 PM
EdKozk2 EdKozk2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
I just acquired a CTC-5 super model from the HFH Restore. They're starting to sell items that seem to be so-called Antiques.
The back was hanging partially off so I looked inside to see if it's complete.
I moved it closer to a power source and removed the 5U4's to see the CRT heaters light, as I couldn't see any white around the getters.
Hopefully, the CRT has some life in it, as it was replaced at one time with an RCA replacement.
The cabinet is a Masonite table model and a little rough.
Hope your crt is still usable. Dave if you do decide to recap the set, I found it easier to remove each circuit board. That way you don't have to reach over the whole chassis. Maybe you can start a thread on your progress. Do you know the chassis number of your find ?
Ed
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  #47  
Old 05-26-2018, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
I just acquired a CTC-5 super model from the HFH Restore. They're starting to sell items that seem to be so-called Antiques.
The back was hanging partially off so I looked inside to see if it's complete.
I moved it closer to a power source and removed the 5U4's to see the CRT heaters light, as I couldn't see any white around the getters.
Hopefully, the CRT has some life in it, as it was replaced at one time with an RCA replacement.
The cabinet is a Masonite table model and a little rough.
Dave, if your CTC5 has a good 21AXP22 in it I'd be interested in trading you a good 21FBP22 and a wad of cash...
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  #48  
Old 05-26-2018, 09:20 PM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
Dave, if your CTC5 has a good 21AXP22 in it I'd be interested in trading you a good 21FBP22 and a wad of cash...
I probably wont get to it until the middle of the week.
I'm interested to see if the jug is good. I don't remember seeing that light of a screen color. I always remember the screen color a darker green. Naturally, it has a safety glass.
More info later!
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  #49  
Old 05-27-2018, 11:10 AM
EdKozk2 EdKozk2 is offline
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[QUOTE=dieseljeep;3200012]I probably wont get to it until the middle of the week.
I'm interested to see if the jug is good. I don't remember seeing that light of a screen color. I always remember the screen color a darker green. Naturally, it has a safety glass.
More info later! [/QUOTE

The dud 21AXp22a I removed from my CTC5 had a much lighter screen, almost white color also. It was a Sylvania.
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  #50  
Old 05-29-2018, 10:44 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
Dave, if your CTC5 has a good 21AXP22 in it I'd be interested in trading you a good 21FBP22 and a wad of cash...
The set is a CTC5A, built in the 3rd quarter of 1956.
I was mistaken about the CRT, it's original! It seems to check out very good.
PM me on this website and include a phone # where you can be reached and the best time to call.
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  #51  
Old 05-29-2018, 02:46 PM
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PM sent.
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  #52  
Old 06-26-2018, 07:47 AM
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I'm currently undertaking the same conversion. I have all the parts gathered based on the extremely helpful advice here.

One question, I need to bore a hole in the side of the plastic boot for the anode lead. based on the required orientation of the CRT and other items, the hole will be right along the rib on the 3 O'clock position. Did you guys have the same issue? Is it a problem at all?

Also, I was reading the part about keeping the CRT grounded through the plastic boot, as directly grounding the dag on the CRT with the boot on caused problems. Wouldn't that double up the capacitance for the HV (Through the glass envelope of the CRT, through the dag on surfaces, and then through the plastic)? I'm a bit confused on how that works.
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  #53  
Old 06-26-2018, 10:38 AM
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Converting to a glass CRT but still using the plastic boot to hold it in place, right?

If you ground the dag and the boot, then the voltage is between the inside dag of the tube glass and the outside dag, so it's only that pair that makes a capacitor. It doesn't matter how many layers of grounded stuff you add on top of the grounded dag, since there is no voltage between those grounded layers.
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  #54  
Old 06-26-2018, 10:43 AM
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By the way, I'm not reading back through all the posts, but I'm surprised that people use the boot from the metal tube to hold a glass tube, which has a more bulging shape than the 21AXP. IIRC, when I tried it, it seemed like it would force the deflection yoke back too far on the neck. When I converted mine (temporarily) to a glass tube, I adapted some hardware from a CTC-7 that had a metal framework that held the bell of the tube, by adding some extension threaded rods and hinges to attach to the bezel hardware and bend around the shape. I removed the boot and kept it for when I got a 21AXP, rather than drilling it or anything.
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  #55  
Old 06-26-2018, 11:02 AM
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You can still get the yoke to fit properly. You just need to extend the slots for the yoke clamp screws and remove the ring inside the boot that prevents more forward travel.
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  #56  
Old 06-26-2018, 11:34 AM
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Rereading your post, I hope you aren't planning to ground the boot and not ground the outer CRT dag. This would leave the outer CRT dag floating, and it may build up charge and arc. Also, grounding only the boot makes it act as a capacitor plate a longer distance from the inside of the CRT, thus reducing the capacitance.

Both the CRT outer dag and the boot should be grounded.
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  #57  
Old 06-26-2018, 01:46 PM
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I had planned to ground the outer dag on the CRT, like in any other TV. In one of the posts it looked as though that's what was done originally, but arced between the CRT and boot. It was suggested he remove the ground and that solved the issue. However, it didn't make sense as to why- perhaps I read it wrong. Your explanation makes more sense. If the anode is inside the glass, going to grounded exterior dag, the boot would be grounded on both sides and never build a charge.
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  #58  
Old 06-26-2018, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EdKozk2 View Post
The other is arcing that looks like lightning across the sky between the inner old plastic cover and the dag coated crt. In my case I have grounded inside and outside of the plastic cover. I also grounded the crt's dag. The charge builds up, discharges then does it again.
This is the section of the post I am referring to. It was mentioned to unground the CRT dag and let the boot "act as the HV smoothing capacitor". This was reported to correct the issue, but it seemed backwards, hence why I asked about it.
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  #59  
Old 06-26-2018, 06:47 PM
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IIRC the inside of the boot on my 5 is also dag coated and has a spring to make contact with the bell of the CRT mounted under it.
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  #60  
Old 06-27-2018, 02:13 AM
EdKozk2 EdKozk2 is offline
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The arcing problems I had were a result of the grounded dag being to close to the anode connection on the glass crt. The boot is coated on both sides as Tom C. mentioned. In a normal glass crt installation there is a region surrounding the anode connection with no dag coating. This isolates the the region from high voltage arcing. What I ended up doing was making the hole in the boot larger and getting a good anode lead suction cup. BTW, the hole I drilled for the anode lead almost cuts into the rib.
Ed
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