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  #76  
Old 05-27-2018, 10:10 AM
zeno zeno is offline
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BTW HV rectifiers & focus tube dont light up or
barely glow...........

73 Zeno
LFOD !
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  #77  
Old 05-27-2018, 10:55 AM
albanks albanks is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
If the tubes are lighting but no sound or other signs of life then you lost B+... Probably the main rail off off the rectifier. Figure out where it is dead with voltage checks.
OK thanks. I need to pick up a few basic pieces of testing equipment I should already own, then I will get in there again. Here we go again.
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  #78  
Old 05-27-2018, 10:56 AM
albanks albanks is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeno View Post
BTW HV rectifiers & focus tube dont light up or
barely glow...........

73 Zeno
LFOD !
OK, that makes sense. I was wondering about that and if it could be.
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  #79  
Old 05-28-2018, 10:08 AM
albanks albanks is offline
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While I'm waiting for the parts and tools needed to fix up the '71 portable I decided to open up the '65 Zenith and get the chassis disconnected. I have 3 questions. Please see pics for reference.

1.) This is my first time dealing with the wafer board style capacitor. Can I still use the nichicon style capacitors? My procedure is to clip from the bottom, not re-stuff. I understand the negative grounding procedure is different.

2.) The HV anode connector thing is not sitting tight against the tube it looks like its missing a metal clip on the other side. Thoughts?

3.) I turned this thing on for 2 minutes, great CRT strength but picture was turned. I understand I need to rotate the yoke. When I opened it up what I was expecting to see was not there. Can you explain to me in laymans terms what I would be doing? There is a wingnut screw on top, am I in the right area?

Thanks in advance.
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  #80  
Old 05-28-2018, 04:06 PM
Electronic M's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by albanks View Post
While I'm waiting for the parts and tools needed to fix up the '71 portable I decided to open up the '65 Zenith and get the chassis disconnected. I have 3 questions. Please see pics for reference.

1.) This is my first time dealing with the wafer board style capacitor. Can I still use the nichicon style capacitors? My procedure is to clip from the bottom, not re-stuff. I understand the negative grounding procedure is different.

2.) The HV anode connector thing is not sitting tight against the tube it looks like its missing a metal clip on the other side. Thoughts?

3.) I turned this thing on for 2 minutes, great CRT strength but picture was turned. I understand I need to rotate the yoke. When I opened it up what I was expecting to see was not there. Can you explain to me in laymans terms what I would be doing? There is a wingnut screw on top, am I in the right area?

Thanks in advance.
First, if the outer can terminals do not connect to chassis ( most cans connected like that have a card board tube that hides the above chassis portion of the can) then ground the new caps to the wires connected to the outer can leads of the original and NOT to chassis. The replacement types should be the same style you use to replace any other lytic.

Second, it looks like one of the fingers of the HV connector rusted off. Go find a cheap or free 1980's-2000's CRT TV and take the whole HV lead from that to use as a replacement... you can also transplant the connector from your new lead to the old one if you want....but keep the new wire just the same, you'll need it some day.

Third, loosen the wing nut and and slide side to side to rotate yoke.
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  #81  
Old 05-28-2018, 04:48 PM
albanks albanks is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
Second, it looks like one of the fingers of the HV connector rusted off. Go find a cheap or free 1980's-2000's CRT TV and take the whole HV lead from that to use as a replacement... you can also transplant the connector from your new lead to the old one if you want....but keep the new wire just the same, you'll need it some day.
As usual, thanks for your expertise.

So on this particular point. I didn't follow the wire on the original so I am not sure if it is self-explanatory to completely swap out the HV leads. Whether or not I just use connector or swap out the wire I may need further help on this, do they just disconnect, am I cutting something??
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  #82  
Old 05-28-2018, 06:09 PM
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Whether to swap connector or wire is a judgement call for you to make. If the original wire is damaged or significantly deteriorated it may be best to replace it...if all it needs is a clean you may want to keep it.

It typically solders to the bottom of the HV rect socket... how much of a job it is to swap the whole wire varies from chassis to chassis. Gotta look yours over and assess it to make a decision. Be aware that the solder joint under the HV socket needs to be smooth...any sharp points will encourage arcing and or Corona.

Changing the connector: typically you grab the fingers with needle nose pliers and pull the fingers and lead out from the center of the suction cup and unsolder the fingers from the wire then yank the cup off the wire...the old cup will be crusty and difficult. Most newer cups you find will be the same process ( only you have to do it twice forward and once in reverse for a swap), but there are oddballs out there. When transplanting note how the new part was put on and match the workmanship.
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  #83  
Old 06-09-2018, 12:16 PM
albanks albanks is offline
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Thanks for the answer. I have been busy but am getting around to fixing my TV's. I am back to the '71 as I study more about the '65 HV cup swap out.

Anyway, this '71 is driving me nuts! I just replaced the fuse and a bunch of other stuff Sam's recommended when there is no raster, no sound.

Now nothing has ever been wrong with this set, then one day the volume and on/off knob fell off and ever since then all hell has broken loose! I had to glue it back in but I thought nothing of this at the time but ever since a couple of days after I did that, I get no picture or sound when turning on this set. But today, I got mad and flicked the on knob with my finger and it turned on. Then I tapped the other side (see pictures, I don't know terminology) and it turned on again.

Also, please see video. What the hell is that? If I rock it, it turns on and off while it is powered on? If I set the set upright it won't power on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrJn6KWhzq0

Thoughts?
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  #84  
Old 06-09-2018, 12:23 PM
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Contacts may be bad on the switch...Not too rare on electronics of that vintage.
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  #85  
Old 06-09-2018, 01:20 PM
albanks albanks is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
Contacts may be bad on the switch...Not too rare on electronics of that vintage.
Alright, gotta look that up. Thanks a lot. Easily fixable? Procedure?

I'm soldering the new capacitors on the '65 now so they will be done when I attempt the HV cup swap.

Breathing in a lot of lead, very healthy hobby!
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  #86  
Old 06-09-2018, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by albanks View Post
Alright, gotta look that up. Thanks a lot. Easily fixable? Procedure?

I'm soldering the new capacitors on the '65 now so they will be done when I attempt the HV cup swap.

Breathing in a lot of lead, very healthy hobby!
I typically just hard wire bridge the switch terminals to the ON position and turn the set off by unplugging it...If I have a similar switch/pot combo I can swap the switch mech from or I'm really lucky and have an identical switch/pot combo on hand I'll fix it properly.

I tend not to use the power switches much on my sets I've worn them out before. Instead, I opt for remote controlled outlets or switched power strips.


Be glad you don't have 40's 50's radios and TV's...You find plenty of asbestos sheets in those then you 'have to get out the cocaine straw' as shango66 puts it. BTW: if you handle a yellow-green chassis and get that delicious looking mustardy yellow dust on your hands resist the urge to lick it...That's cadmium which is supposed to be worse than lead.
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  #87  
Old 06-10-2018, 07:24 PM
albanks albanks is offline
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Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
I typically just hard wire bridge the switch terminals to the ON position and turn the set off by unplugging it...If I have a similar switch/pot combo I can swap the switch mech from or I'm really lucky and have an identical switch/pot combo on hand I'll fix it properly.

I tend not to use the power switches much on my sets I've worn them out before. Instead, I opt for remote controlled outlets or switched power strips.


Be glad you don't have 40's 50's radios and TV's...You find plenty of asbestos sheets in those then you 'have to get out the cocaine straw' as shango66 puts it. BTW: if you handle a yellow-green chassis and get that delicious looking mustardy yellow dust on your hands resist the urge to lick it...That's cadmium which is supposed to be worse than lead.
Man that's crazy, lol. Yeah I am going to have to study or look for instructions for that contact switch problem. Such a shame, the set works flawlessly besides that.

PS, I'm dealing with resistors this time around. I'm new to them. Please see pic, are those orange bands or yellow? They looked orange before I took the picture, now they show yellow. I threw it out and can't check. I'm not digging this band system, why don't they just write the value on it? PS, are resistors like capacitors where increasing the values are OK? I want to be safe here since I can't determine the exact values.
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  #88  
Old 06-10-2018, 08:05 PM
Chip Chester Chip Chester is offline
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What light are you using to view the bands? I have noticed that some of my LED flashlights distort color perception quite a bit. Especially ones whose color temperature is pretty white, and ones that are real bright.
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  #89  
Old 06-11-2018, 12:14 AM
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Probably yellow. Orange tends to be a lot closer to red on most resistors. Find it on the schematic and double check the value.

Resistance needs to be within tolerance. The silver band indicates that that part should be no more than 10% away from it's labeled value. Wattage is fine to increase on resistors. Resistors tend to increase in resistance when they fail or age really badly...What it will do the circuit if it is substantially over rated value varies (usually it will not cause damage to other parts) depending on where and how it is used...It could be unnoticeable, or it could change a deflection time constant and make a hold control never lock...Worst case is probably if you increased a value in such a way that you lost the drive to the H output tube.
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  #90  
Old 06-11-2018, 10:26 AM
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Caution: the color is NOT yellow, it is orange.
Your camera flash and slight overexposure have turned orange yellowish.

It must be orange because orange orange brown silver is a standard value:
330 ohms 10% tolerance.
Yellow yellow brown silver would be 440 ohms 10%, which is not at all a standard value.

Resistors cannot be substituted with any higher resistance value. The substitute should be within the tolerance specified by the 4th band. For example, you could use 330 ohm 5% in place of 330 ohm 10%.

A resistor of a higher wattage may be substituted, that is you could replace a half watt by a one watt of the same resistance and tolerance.
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