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#1
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The more I look at it the more I think I should go back to White, or Antique White.
I have a can of "Ivory" out in the garage, that might look good. The White I used was really white, like Hospital White, a little too bright I think. I'll give the Ivory a shot (if it's still good) the more coats of paint the glossier it'll be! I might have to prime it again to cover the Red. Maybe all Red wouldn't look too bad? I would like Dark brown, the only brown I ever see is "Kona" Brown, too light, like Milk Chocolate and what I want is Dark Chocolate. |
#2
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i like it !!
i vote to leave it with the red/white color scheme. |
#3
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I think an off white would look nice.
Another idea; Since the screen mask is too cloudy "as-is", could you cut the center out and still use the outside mask as a border around the new CRT? You could even paint it some contrasting color to go with the lettering. |
#4
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Well I decided teh Red & White was to Gaudy, I didn't really want to redo the whole thing though so I went with all Red.
I painted the Gold trim around the CRT opening, painted the White areas Red and painted the feet Black. It looks good this way, probably look better when it's together and has some nice Brass knobs to set it off. After it dries for a day or two I'll do some wet sanding to smooth out some areas where the paint oversprayed, that's why I hate second coats, that always happens, you wind up painting the whole thing over trying to chase out the overspray but it never goes away. Here's a picture I took through the sliding glass door, that's why it's kind of spotty. |
#5
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It's dry so I brought it in and installed the chassis.
Still need to do some things like make up a knob panel, and get some grille cloth, also need to extend the IR sensor so I can mount it up front somewhere, I can probably hide it in the speaker grille. It needs a back too, I mounted the chassis so the inputs will just stick out, it has two sets of inputs, one was on the front, it plugs into the chassis so I may just omit it. It is a Stereo set so I'll need to mount two speakers inside, it has a great picture, the set seems to be a cut above the no name BPC junk. I'd like to get into the service menu (if it has one) and adjust the picture size to fit the opening, it's not really noticeable but it extends past the opening a half inch on the sides and maybe 1/4" on the top and bottom. Anyone know the trick to access the Service menu on a 2003 Samsung? |
Audiokarma |
#6
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Quote:
http://www.riddledtv.com/forums/sams...rptv-t291.html Cheers,
__________________
Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
#7
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A little more progress.
I went to Jo-Anne's and picked up some fabric that's reasonably appropriate for Grille Cloth. Next I decided what speakers to use, I have been wondering what to do with this little pair of Realistic Minimus Seven's for a long time, now I know. The TV has a pathetic 2.5 watts per channel of audio power @8 ohms, the original speakers were barely listenable without their original enclosure, also I wanted something with a crossover and a tweeter, these fit the bill perfectly. They play quite loudly so they must be pretty efficient, small enough to mount side by side on the speaker board too. I did a hack job on cutting out the openings, oh well, it was hot and dark in the garage and I just wanted to get it done, it won't be seen anyway. I need a good staple gun now so I can attach the cloth to the board, I have a regular office type Swingline stapler but it's not up to the job. Anyone have some tips on installing the cloth I'm all ears, I usually botch stuff like this up. I have plenty of extra cloth though so I can try again if needed. Oh yeah, I figured out what to do with either the extra set of inputs or the tuner, I'm going to install a Digital Converter box in the empty space at the bottom, I'll run the IR sensor up front so it can be operated with the remote. I think I can hide both IR sensors in the speaker grille area, possibly in a crevice of the cris-cross pattern in the Bakelite. Last edited by Eric H; 09-04-2011 at 09:57 PM. |
#8
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Hey, I like that cloth! It looks like a passable match for a GE810. Maybe I'll finally get rid of my burlap
Do you recall the pattern name ? Sorry - no tips from me. I'm terrible with grille cloth |
#9
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I have no idea of the name but I have gobs of it, I'll be happy to send a piece to you.
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#10
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With grill cloth you basically want to divide and conquer.
Start in the center of one edge and tack, then pull taunt and tack the opposite edge. Then go out to one corner and pull a little tension at 45degrees from center, tack. Crossover to the opposite corner, tack, then repeat for the two remaining corners. Now focus on finishing the first two parallel edges, subdividing down while alternate tacking side to side. Next tack the center of one of two remaining edges, pulling slightly outward, in an attempt to match the stretch at the corners. Repeat the dividing process as with the first two parallel sides, only now you focus on matching the stretch initialized at the corners. I generally do longest sides first, because that’s where the most stretching needs to occur. Don’t go crazy with the stretching, that only makes it more difficult to keep things even, plus the cloth will tend to pull from under the staples later on. Watch the pattern in the cloth as you stretch it, working out from the centers. Hope that makes some sense. Last edited by Kevin Kuehn; 09-05-2011 at 02:53 AM. |
Audiokarma |
#11
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I suppose you may want your grill cloth glued onto the speaker board? To do that, I've first fastened two edges of the fabric to some wood strips that act as handles. Spray the speaker board and backside of the fabric with some contact adhesive. After the glue tacks up, then gently stretch the fabric using the wood handles, all while lowering the fabric down onto the speaker board. I've even heard of some using a wood picture frame or a large needlepoint hoop for holding the fabric. Apparently hide glue was originally used for attaching some speaker cloth. I suppose the old formula hide glue sets up pretty quickly when applied hot. You probably should still staple the edges after gluing. Personally, with that size speaker board I'd just go with the staples, but it depends on how sturdy the fabric is.
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#12
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Thanks for the great tips. Maybe these should be moved to a sticky post in the tech forum ?
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#13
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There should probably be pictures of the process before a sticky.
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#14
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OK, out with the Red, in with the Ivory, I think this is a huge improvement!
A big Red TV is OK if you're furnishing a Retro Diner or a Childs room, but not in the Living Room of the average home. |
#15
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Yes, much better I really like the gold on Ivory look and the metal knobs will look great. The grille cloth looks good too.
After several layers of paint, is the recessed lettering still distinct enough to rub in paint ? I hope so. Looks like you left the feet unpainted / dark - nice touch |
Audiokarma |
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