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  #1  
Old 06-10-2018, 09:04 AM
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Philco 38-12 radio

Well just picked this radio up and seems to be common one and chanced turning it on using an inverter and it's got the typical buzzing that am radios have but it didn't pickup any stations but I'm going to recap it. I'll have to chance this after recapping because I have no clue if the tubes are good or not since these tubes are so early I gave away my tube tester that would have tested these now I have none to test them with. If anyone knows these radios , is there any known problems with these radios that need special attention.
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Old 06-10-2018, 10:46 AM
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Like most of the starter Philco sets, I think this one is relatively simplistic. Just don't forget about the bakelite capacitor block, If I recall correctly, this set uses one
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Old 06-10-2018, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmy View Post
Well just picked this radio up and seems to be common one and chanced turning it on using an inverter and it's got the typical buzzing that am radios have but it didn't pickup any stations but I'm going to recap it. I'll have to chance this after recapping because I have no clue if the tubes are good or not since these tubes are so early I gave away my tube tester that would have tested these now I have none to test them with. If anyone knows these radios , is there any known problems with these radios that need special attention.
I have two in my collection!
Standard transformer powered five tube radio.
Initial check procedure: Remove 84 rectifier tube and see if the rest of the tubes light up, of course with power applied. Replace the electrolytic caps and the coupling cap from the 75 plate to the 41 output tube. Make sure the two resistors are good in the bias line. Then try it!
Tubes are the last things I worry about in a radio that basic.
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Old 06-10-2018, 11:00 AM
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Schematic here:

https://www.google.com/search?q=phil...O2nPfkz-m59jM:

I don't see any capacitor blocks... looks pretty simple.

jr
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Old 06-10-2018, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Zsuttle View Post
Like most of the starter Philco sets, I think this one is relatively simplistic. Just don't forget about the bakelite capacitor block, If I recall correctly, this set uses one
What is that capacitor block which is listed as a compensator, whatever that is. how is anyone able to make out the colors for the values of the resistors in this radio, the colors are weird and don't make sense.

Last edited by timmy; 06-10-2018 at 01:29 PM.
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Old 06-10-2018, 02:11 PM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Originally Posted by jr_tech View Post
Schematic here:

https://www.google.com/search?q=phil...O2nPfkz-m59jM:

I don't see any capacitor blocks... looks pretty simple.

jr
It looks like the power line filter is one of Philco's bakelite blocks.
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Old 06-10-2018, 02:18 PM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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What is that capacitor block which is listed as a compensator, whatever that is. how is anyone able to make out the colors for the values of the resistors in this radio, the colors are weird and don't make sense.
Philco's name for trimmer condenser is compensator. Looks like the 2nd IF transformer is mounted on the back of the chassis with the compensator.
I don't remember the resistors used in the radio. Just use the schematic from Nostalgia Air.
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Old 06-10-2018, 05:37 PM
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It looks like the power line filter is one of Philco's bakelite blocks.
Yeah, that's the one I was referring to, however, I've had experience with Philco substituting items sometimes. I've found capacitor blocks where they shouldn't have been, and tubular caps the same. Could have been factory, or someone replacing with OEM parts, either way they were genuine philco stuff. Either way, they matched the schematic, though not the under chassis diagram provided.
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Old 06-10-2018, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zsuttle View Post
Yeah, that's the one I was referring to, however, I've had experience with Philco substituting items sometimes. I've found capacitor blocks where they shouldn't have been, and tubular caps the same. Could have been factory, or someone replacing with OEM parts, either way they were genuine philco stuff. Either way, they matched the schematic, though not the under chassis diagram provided.
ARF has a pretty good page under their resto section that translates the part numbers into cap values for the blocks (sadly it does a poor job for the ones that contain resistors and caps)....I just chip the tar out with a couple different sized screwdrivers and hide the new caps inside the block....Since the blocks act as terminal strips it is cheaper, simpler, and better looking to restuff them rather than replace with new terminal strips.
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Old 06-10-2018, 06:21 PM
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While this radio is really simple the schematic is not so clear as to the values of the resistors since some number 3s look like 5s because of ink bleed on the paper so I guess the best way is to try to compair the value of the resistor with what it shows on paper with adding more for drift.
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Old 06-11-2018, 11:05 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Originally Posted by timmy View Post
While this radio is really simple the schematic is not so clear as to the values of the resistors since some number 3s look like 5s because of ink bleed on the paper so I guess the best way is to try to compair the value of the resistor with what it shows on paper with adding more for drift.
There is very little problem reading the resistor values on the N/A Schematic, plus every part is listed by number on the parts list.
Philco is the one that started using the odd-at-the-time values of resistors, ie 47K instead of 50K, 2.2 K instead of 2K or 2.5K etc.
They claimed that some color codes were hard distinguish under the then-new Mercury Vapor lighting, being used in their plant.
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Old 06-11-2018, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
There is very little problem reading the resistor values on the N/A Schematic, plus every part is listed by number on the parts list.
Philco is the one that started using the odd-at-the-time values of resistors, ie 47K instead of 50K, 2.2 K instead of 2K or 2.5K etc.
They claimed that some color codes were hard distinguish under the then-new Mercury Vapor lighting, being used in their plant.
I have the NA schematic , even looking at it on line seemed Alittle bit of bleeding on the type. Well I don't have vapor lighting here, lol,lol
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Old 06-11-2018, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
There is very little problem reading the resistor values on the N/A Schematic, plus every part is listed by number on the parts list.
Philco is the one that started using the odd-at-the-time values of resistors, ie 47K instead of 50K, 2.2 K instead of 2K or 2.5K etc.
They claimed that some color codes were hard distinguish under the then-new Mercury Vapor lighting, being used in their plant.
Well I took out the 84 and the other 4 tubes do light. So now I'm off to check resistors and recap.
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Old 06-11-2018, 11:47 PM
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Most of the riders manuals were poorly scanned back in the 90's and no one ever bothered to fix that. The original books are much better, but the print is rather fine...One day I gotta get me the full paper riders.
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Old 06-12-2018, 10:35 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Most of the riders manuals were poorly scanned back in the 90's and no one ever bothered to fix that. The original books are much better, but the print is rather fine...One day I gotta get me the full paper riders.
Someone at the WARCI meet had some paper issues. That might've been the one you missed. I have some duplicates from the shop that closed down.
Let me know what ones you need.
BTW, the N/A scans are pretty good.
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