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  #16  
Old 01-23-2017, 01:52 PM
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DavGoodlin DavGoodlin is offline
Motorola Minion
 
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Location: near Strasburg PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bandersen View Post
I hope you never need to get those bases off. I do it with the CRT face up and just run a bead along the base. It really doesn't take much to hold it firm.
yep, having never used this product, I probably overdid it.

Doing it with CRT face-up would allow it to seep DOWNWARD into the crevice between base and glass. I've still got two more 21FJ's to do.
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  #17  
Old 01-31-2017, 03:19 PM
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DavGoodlin DavGoodlin is offline
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Both these bases are on tight now but allow a tiny bit of movement.
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  #18  
Old 02-01-2017, 12:52 AM
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MadMan MadMan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavGoodlin View Post
Half a tube was used on each base in one hole and it flowed in and around the base closest to the CRT glass. Most or all of the wires going into the CRT may be covered also. Looking into the second hole, it was showing a rising level of silicone.
You totally filled it? O_o

I mean... ok... I guess. But yeah, you're never getting that off. 1/4" bead around the rim would've been plenty. And a lot easier.
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  #19  
Old 02-04-2017, 12:13 PM
fixmeplease fixmeplease is offline
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An update. Success! That silicone is some runny stuff, lol. I had just a little trouble getting the wires from the tube to take solder even after cleaning but got them after some extra flux. The best part is after done, if my tester is correct, this is the best tube out of the 6 that I have tested.

Thanks guys! Im going to dig into this set now. Im gonna replace the electros and see what I have then. If nothing else I think I have a good 10BP4 tube. The tube is a Silvertone and the set shows considerable previous work, with many or all of the production changes having been done plus a couple newer electros. Not sure what else was replaced until I dig into it. Most the other tubes test good. Its an early model 30a14.
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