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  #16  
Old 08-19-2013, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveWM View Post
those all look pretty good, You can still try the diode (I would just unsolder and check the a DMM compare to the new one) then the resistors. This may be very late question, but do you have the brightness cranked up? or the contrast real low?
Funny you should ask. I have the contrast at a comfortable level and there's plenty of travel left on the control. You only need to turn less than a 1/4 to get the right level.

The brightness, on the other hand, is almost full. There's not headroom in the control. The full rotation gets you just over where it should be. I back it down just a bit to get to the right level. I could have sworn it had much more range before I started my repair work.

Why are you asking? Is there something in the numbers?

Also, if the numbers look okay, does that mean the resistors are probably okay as well? I will do the diode on Wed. I'm running out of steam and don't feel like flipping her over at the moment.
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  #17  
Old 08-19-2013, 05:04 PM
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well if it checks out (the blanking) then I was thinking something may be a miss in the overall bias of the CRT.

You should get that working (brightness control).


Check all the voltages on the CRT (G1 G2 and Cathodes).
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  #18  
Old 08-19-2013, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveWM View Post
well if it checks out (the blanking) then I was thinking something may be a miss in the overall bias of the CRT.

You should get that working (brightness control).


Check all the voltages on the CRT (G1 G2 and Cathodes).
The CRT checks out okay on the B&K tester and the G2 voltages were good as well. Could it be possible I didn't set the G2s high enough when I did the grayscale adjustment? I disconnected the IF, turned all G2s down and then turned red up until dim raster and backed off until it disappeared ( don't like the setup line). I did the same for the blue and Green. I didn't see a need to move the taps, so they're on medium.
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  #19  
Old 08-19-2013, 05:16 PM
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well how do the voltage look at the G2? based on your setup, warning they will be pretty high so make sure your meter can handle it.

If the brightness control is turned way high, and its part of the same circuit that has the blanking maybe there could be a problem..
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  #20  
Old 08-19-2013, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveWM View Post
well how do the voltage look at the G2? based on your setup, warning they will be pretty high so make sure your meter can handle it.

If the brightness control is turned way high, and its part of the same circuit that has the blanking maybe there could be a problem..
Each G2 measured around 752 with pot turned up and around 420 with it turned down.
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  #21  
Old 08-19-2013, 07:01 PM
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where was it when you did your setup?
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  #22  
Old 08-19-2013, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveWM View Post
where was it when you did your setup?
When did what setup? If you mean the grayscale, they were all the way CCW which would make them about 420V. I don't know what they ended up at as I didn't think to measure.
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  #23  
Old 08-19-2013, 08:31 PM
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when you did the orig CRT setup you said something about not liking to use the setup switch bur rather seting up the red raster then the other colors.

Now you have the set working but you say the brightness control must be set to max.

I presume the jail bars are happening with this setup.

So

now measure the crt pin voltages. don't move the pots I just want to know what the voltage are after you did the setup and had the picture that you say is low in brighness.
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  #24  
Old 08-19-2013, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveWM View Post
when you did the orig CRT setup you said something about not liking to use the setup switch bur rather seting up the red raster then the other colors.

Now you have the set working but you say the brightness control must be set to max.

I presume the jail bars are happening with this setup.

So

now measure the crt pin voltages. don't move the pots I just want to know what the voltage are after you did the setup and had the picture that you say is low in brighness.
Oh, I get it. That setup was the grayscale. The setup switch puts a single horizontal line across the screen and you're supposed to turn up the G2s so you get a white line. It's to hard to do this, so I used another's suggestion about pulling the IF cable and going with a full screen raster. The only difference is, and this could be the issue, is that with the IF disconnect way, you turn up till visible and then down til just off. With the setup line, you want each visible. So maybe turning back til just off is making it too dim for good brightness.

Oh, and I'm not maxed out, but just about. There's about 1/8" movement left in the control. I know on my other CCII, there's about 3/16 or more left and can get pretty bright.

When I flip her over Wednesday, I'll measure the G2 voltages as set.
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  #25  
Old 08-19-2013, 09:04 PM
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That seem odd, with a good CRT and the G2's turned up 7/8 the pic should be way bright. Something is not right. The thing with CRTs is if you the correct HV and the votages are right and the CRT has good emissons it pretty much has to work right (brighness).

should be interesting to get the readings. something is off on the bias maybe in the cathode circuit after all (back to the video amp).

if all the cathodes are too high it would cutoff the CRT, the driver transistors get there signal for the luma from the emitter circuit, the base is the chorma.

for grins check the emitter voltages of those 3 power transistors (should all be the same about 16v no signal)again be careful on slip and you will ruin the transistors.

Last edited by DaveWM; 08-19-2013 at 09:09 PM.
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  #26  
Old 08-19-2013, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveWM View Post
That seem odd, with a good CRT and the G2's turned up 7/8 the pic should be way bright. Something is not right. The thing with CRTs is if you the correct HV and the votages are right and the CRT has good emissons it pretty much has to work right (brighness).

should be interesting to get the readings. something is off on the bias maybe in the cathode circuit after all (back to the video amp).

if all the cathodes are too high it would cutoff the CRT, the driver transistors get there signal for the luma from the emitter circuit, the base is the chorma.

for grins check the emitter voltages of those 3 power transistors (should all be the same about 16v no signal)again be careful on slip and you will ruin the transistors.
Okay, the G2s are: Red=488V Green=453V Blue=456V

How are those numbers? And it's not the G2s that are turned up that far, it's the brightness control on the front of the set that up.
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  #27  
Old 08-19-2013, 11:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveWM View Post
those all look pretty good, You can still try the diode (I would just unsolder and check the a DMM compare to the new one) then the resistors. This may be very late question, but do you have the brightness cranked up? or the contrast real low?
Okay, unsoldered the leg of the diode. It measured 584 or so one way, infinity the other. So I'm assuming it's good, right? That's really the only test you can do on a diode, right?
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  #28  
Old 08-20-2013, 07:52 AM
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what does the sams say the G2s should be? that seems low to me.

before doing anymore work on the jail bars you need to get the brightness thing worked out.

do the setup per the sams, (with the service switch) then check the brightness control and the G2 voltages.

and yes the diode is fine.
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  #29  
Old 08-20-2013, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveWM View Post
what does the sams say the G2s should be? that seems low to me.

before doing anymore work on the jail bars you need to get the brightness thing worked out.

do the setup per the sams, (with the service switch) then check the brightness control and the G2 voltages.

and yes the diode is fine.
Okay, the SM shows: Red=590 Green=640 and Blue=540

So I need to bring the G2s up to roughly those values? I know they go that high and higher from testing, but didn't know I was aiming for those values when adjusting.

I'll have to do it tomorrow. Got a busy day today.
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  #30  
Old 08-20-2013, 11:11 AM
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its not that you are aiming for those that is just what sams got, my concern is if you deviated from the correct G2 setup procedure, then the bias of the tube may be off, making other things (maybe the jail bars) become an issue.

just do the setup as defined in sams, check the voltages and post back the results if brightness is still an issue then need to look at the other voltages and try to figure out why, brightness should not be an issue with a good tube with correct HV and pin voltages.
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