Recently Acquired 1969 Motorola Color Tube Tv

[old_tv_nut]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

If I couldn't prove it's not paper I'd change it...$0.50 and a minute of soldering is easier than having more things to doubt after a recap when it doesn't work.

Ditto.

Where was this in the circuit?

[Lain94]

Originally Posted by old_tv_nut

Ditto.

Where was this in the circuit?

The capacitor was physically on the top part of the chassis near the high voltage box. As far as the schematic goes it looks to be in the general area where the vertical output tube is and the other stuff related to the vertical.

[Notimetolooz]

Electronic M has a point. I could go either way with this.
However if you are a newbie to this kind of stuff (and you sound like you are) you may create more problems than solve them.
Not only do you have to get the type, value and voltage rating right but you must not make a mistake connecting to the right points. With electrolytic caps you also get the polarity right. It takes a level of concentration that someone that has done a lot of can take for granted. I have come to this conclusion after helping many newbies.
I would definitely replace the electrolytic caps, those almost always have a metal case even if that is covered with a plastic film or cardboard.
You really should get the service info on the set, that may clear up some facts like the type of capacitors and where they are in the circuit.

[Lain94]

Originally Posted by Notimetolooz

Electronic M has a point. I could go either way with this.
However if you are a newbie to this kind of stuff (and you sound like you are) you may create more problems than solve them.
Not only do you have to get the type, value and voltage rating right but you must not make a mistake connecting to the right points. With electrolytic caps you also get the polarity right. It takes a level of concentration that someone that has done a lot of can take for granted. I have come to this conclusion after helping many newbies.
I would definitely replace the electrolytic caps, those almost always have a metal case even if that is covered with a plastic film or cardboard.
You really should get the service info on the set, that may clear up some facts like the type of capacitors and where they are in the circuit.

Yeah I am going to be very careful and take my time with this recap and repair for sure. I will also check everything over before I attempt to power back on. I am taking photos of everything in the chassis as well after and before each step. I do have the sams photo fact for this tv luckily but it only seems to state if a capacitor is electrolytic or not. The part list makes no disctinction between ceramic, mylar, wax paper ect though.

[old_tv_nut]

Originally Posted by Lain94

The capacitor was physically on the top part of the chassis near the high voltage box. As far as the schematic goes it looks to be in the general area where the vertical output tube is and the other stuff related to the vertical.

I think it would be good to slow down and identify a part in the schematic before you replace it or ask questions. Then you can get better opinions on your options.

[Lain94]

Originally Posted by old_tv_nut

I think it would be good to slow down and identify a part in the schematic before you replace it or ask questions. Then you can get better opinions on your options.

Will do. The biggest concern I have at this point is not the recapping. I am pretty confident in getting that taken care of correctly. I just know that the CRT is very high hour. I don't have the equipment to test it but I can tell its is going to be probably a bit dim, since the color drivers are turned all the way up. Someone mentioned about replacing it with a superior newer RCA picture tube which I am all for doing if it is compatible.

[zeno]

If you are chasing a specific problem you can tack in a cap
of the same value & voltage as a test.
If not leave it be for now.
If you are recapping the set just do a few at a time & recheck as
you go. Its always best to get the PS running first the Hoz/HV
then vert. In other words one stage at a time. Mass recapping
very often leads to a broken set thats MUCH harder to fix.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

[Lain94]

Originally Posted by zeno

If you are chasing a specific problem you can tack in a cap
of the same value & voltage as a test.
If not leave it be for now.
If you are recapping the set just do a few at a time & recheck as
you go. Its always best to get the PS running first the Hoz/HV
then vert. In other words one stage at a time. Mass recapping
very often leads to a broken set thats MUCH harder to fix.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

I 100% agree with this. I will only start with the known bad caps first and go from there if necessary just so things will not get too mixed up. On a side note. What are your thoughts on "picture tube brighteners". I have one that was given to me and it is for 90 degree angle rectangular color picture tubes. It basically uses a small transformer to step up the voltage and increase the brightness on a dim/dark weak crt. Is there any drawback to this? I may use that as a temporary remedy for the CRT until I find a suitable replacement for the high hour crt in the set.

[Notimetolooz]

If you are sure that the problem is the CRT and you think you can find a replacement tube, I suppose as a last resort they are OK.
There have been cases where a previous person put a brightner on because they didn't correct the real problem with the set.
Brightners age the gun cathodes faster than normal so whatever life is left in the CRT is used up fast.
The proper use for them was so that a TV owner could have a brighter image while the repair shop was waiting for a replacement CRT to arrive.
Today replacement CRTs are much harder to find.
Typically on a color tube one gun wears out first making the color balance impossible to achieve. If you say all the drive controls are set near one end it suggests there is another problem that is common to all colors.