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  #136  
Old 12-08-2017, 07:20 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crist Rigott View Post
A very generous member of this Forum gave me a B&K 415 and a 1077B along with most of the cables. I wanted to use the 415 to align this set and after making up the missing cable and converting the mic connectors to BNC, I found out that the 415 doesn't work on the "sweep" function. So over the next week I'll dive into that to see if I can get it going. I'll make a post in the Test Equipment section when that happens.
I started the repair of the 415 located here:

http://www.videokarma.org/showthread...49#post3193149
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  #137  
Old 12-08-2017, 07:30 PM
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Kevin Kuehn Kevin Kuehn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crist Rigott View Post
Yeah, a typo. I'll correct it. It should be 39.3C.
So I'm still not understanding why you said:

"the can and sleeve actually acts as a barrier to the surrounding heat of the chassis as shown by about a 3 to 5 degree difference between the can being on or off."

Looks like in each case they ran cooler without the can, but not by a long shot?
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  #138  
Old 12-08-2017, 08:04 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn View Post
So I'm still not understanding why you said:

"the can and sleeve actually acts as a barrier to the surrounding heat of the chassis as shown by about a 3 to 5 degree difference between the can being on or off."

Looks like in each case they ran cooler without the can, but not by a long shot?
What I was trying to say was that the can absorbs some surrounding heat from the chassis, thus it is hotter than no can at all and measuring just the tops of the E-caps themselves. At least I think that what I meant to say.
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  #139  
Old 12-08-2017, 09:18 PM
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Kevin Kuehn Kevin Kuehn is offline
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Gotcha. Thank you for posting the data, it's very interesting. Like you said there's quite a margin considering their rated life expectancy. It would be interesting to see how much warmer they run once the chassis is back in the cabinet, although a bit more difficult to aim the heat seeking light beam. What we need is a bunch of those remote temp sensors like folks are using on their telemetry equipped RC planes these days.
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  #140  
Old 12-09-2017, 08:29 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn View Post
Gotcha. Thank you for posting the data, it's very interesting. Like you said there's quite a margin considering their rated life expectancy. It would be interesting to see how much warmer they run once the chassis is back in the cabinet, although a bit more difficult to aim the heat seeking light beam. What we need is a bunch of those remote temp sensors like folks are using on their telemetry equipped RC planes these days.
Yeah we used thermocouples taped in places all over avionics packages at work. Then we had a computer log each one every second or so IIRC. Very detailed and very eye opening as to where the heat goes. Of course we would need to come up with a custom can that would allow the thermocouple wire to exit the re-stuffed E-Cap. We could gather a ton of data and come up with a 15 page report. But then would we really do anything different than what we are doing today?
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  #141  
Old 12-09-2017, 12:17 PM
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Kevin Kuehn Kevin Kuehn is offline
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Honestly I so seldom watch my few restored TV's that component lifespan has never been a concern. Seems that most of us end up with a few favorite watchers, but for the most part there's not enough hours in the day once the collection grows past a dozen or so.
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  #142  
Old 12-09-2017, 08:53 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I decided to start work on the cabinet today. I removed the bezel and started to clean it up. I noticed that the "brass" area around the On-Off-Volume knob was quite well worn. It even has the thin plating worn off.



When cleaning the door the plating rubbed off with very little rubbing. And I mean very little. I then took all of the "plating" off. I thought Philco was the only one that skimped on the thickness of the plating. It looks like the aluminum door is bright nickel plated? Probably needs to be that way before it was brass plated. I guess I'll have to find a plating company to plate the door and the knob pieces. As a matter of fact, the bezel brass plating is gone along the most outer edge from repeated cleaning through the decades. I'll get an estimate on getting it all re-plated bright brass. Might even take my Predicta parts along too.

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  #143  
Old 12-10-2017, 12:46 AM
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Kevin Kuehn Kevin Kuehn is offline
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Looks nice in nickle, more modern. I've seen a lot of those get painted too.
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  #144  
Old 12-10-2017, 09:25 PM
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irext irext is offline
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You do lovely work. It's almost a shame to put that chassis in a cabinet and hide it from view.
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  #145  
Old 12-11-2017, 07:50 AM
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John Marinello John Marinello is offline
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I believe that's only a tinted lacquer that was applied to the door. Be careful, the bezel is the same way.
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  #146  
Old 12-11-2017, 08:32 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Marinello View Post
I believe that's only a tinted lacquer that was applied to the door. Be careful, the bezel is the same way.
John,
That makes sense. Yeah, the bezel is showing signs of the lacquer is rubbed off along the sharp edges. I look and see if I can buy some tint. We'll see.
Thanks.
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  #147  
Old 12-11-2017, 10:49 AM
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Eric H Eric H is offline
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Perhaps one of these Mohawk Toners might do the trick?

http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/cata...asp?ictNbr=171
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  #148  
Old 01-19-2018, 02:31 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I'm holding off on working on the cabinet for a bit because of the weather.

I did get a replacement flyback though. It is a Merit HVO-53. Came with instructions. Nice.



I did have to drill/file new notches to mount the new flyback.





I followed the instructions as to the wiring and reassembled the HV cage.



Then the moment of truth. It works very well. I'm getting 12.5Kv and it is dead silent! No more crackling sounds.
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