#1
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Philco 610 and Zenith X334
Got these at the SARS swap meet yesterday. The Zenith was plug-n-play. It needs nothing and sounds excellent. The Philco doesn't work right though. It squeels and howls really bad, but it has static.
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"If you wish to make an apple pie from scratch, you must first invent the universe." -Carl Sagan Last edited by TUD1; 03-12-2017 at 06:56 PM. |
#2
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Here is the Zenith.
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"If you wish to make an apple pie from scratch, you must first invent the universe." -Carl Sagan Last edited by TUD1; 03-12-2017 at 06:56 PM. |
#3
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If that Philco uses block caps they probably will need to be restuffed. To do that look up what is in the cap*, unsolder the parts and leads on it's terminals, unbolt from chassis, pry/scrape the tar/old cap guts out of the block (it is hidden in the end facing the chassis thus why you gotta remove to rebuild), remove the internal leads, put the new caps inside fishing leads through the rivet eyes to the terminals, solder the new caps to their terminals and reinstall the block.
I just got through 2 Philco model 60 chassis and a model 80 so I can gut a block in under a minute. Both the model 60s had open windings on their ant. and osc. transformers....It seems like the glue/wax they put around the finer wire coils eats the copper turning it green till it opens. On my customers' set I was able to find the breaks and fix it, but on my set I had to count the turns and rewind with phono pickup wire...Which thankfully worked. *here http://www.philcorepairbench.com/bblokcap.htm
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#4
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I really hope this thing doesn't use those block cap things. I thought they stopped that by 35. Somebody told me to check that the wires on the IF tubes are inside the shields. Otherwise it will screech and carry on.
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"If you wish to make an apple pie from scratch, you must first invent the universe." -Carl Sagan |
#5
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They were still using Block caps at least in the power line to chassis application up until 1942.
I actually like block caps better than tubular paper caps. They are almost as easy to rebuild as papers are to simply replace, but are easier than papers to rebuild by a mile. Thus paper caps rarely get rebuilt by me, but block caps always get rebuilt (since it is easier/cheaper than removing them and installing terminal strips and new caps in their place). If I had the energy I'd rebuild all caps since it looks better that way IMO.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
Audiokarma |
#6
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I think the old paper caps are ugly and I would never rebuild one. Besides a Sprague Orange Drop wouldn't fit in it anyway. I try to stay away from the yellow caps. I don't like those.
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"If you wish to make an apple pie from scratch, you must first invent the universe." -Carl Sagan |
#7
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I managed to get some audio out of the Philco yesterday, but the volume control is extremely touchy. There is only one place on the volume control where you can hear it. Too low, and there is nothing, too high and it squawks.
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"If you wish to make an apple pie from scratch, you must first invent the universe." -Carl Sagan |
#8
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I have a 37-610, I believe they made this model for several years. I worked on it back in 2003 and my set only had one of the bakelite block capacitors. It was simple to rebuild the cap. I also restuffed all the paper caps (under chassis photo is after recapping). I believe it also originally used wet electrolytic can capacitors. Be careful if opening these to rebuild as they are likely still full of fluid.
The radio performs well, and I like the modern design of the cabinet. |
#9
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Somebody already did all the capacitor work. I'll replace the volume pot one day - I think that's the problem.
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"If you wish to make an apple pie from scratch, you must first invent the universe." -Carl Sagan |
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