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  #16  
Old 02-17-2018, 11:44 AM
Electronic M's Avatar
Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
He could've bought a Cadillac Escalade and showed us some real class.
I'm disappointed that my newer model Prius only gets 44-46 MPG, where the old one always got 50+.
The target was under 150K on the clock, under 20 years old, and under $5K so I could buy it cash...It was %20 or more under all limits. The only Escalades I found (I would have preferred one) were ~double the milage or well over budget...Also, I feel better scuffing up a burban with a load of electronic junque than I do treating a caddy or Lincoln the same.

Also my burban came with the only options an Escalade has (aside from general looks) that I would want to pay for: Leather interior and Heated seats.
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  #17  
Old 02-18-2018, 10:52 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
The target was under 150K on the clock, under 20 years old, and under $5K so I could buy it cash...It was %20 or more under all limits. The only Escalades I found (I would have preferred one) were ~double the milage or well over budget...Also, I feel better scuffing up a burban with a load of electronic junque than I do treating a caddy or Lincoln the same.

Also my burban came with the only options an Escalade has (aside from general looks) that I would want to pay for: Leather interior and Heated seats.
I just wonder how much more the glorified burban called the Caddy costs new? I always think "a fool and their money".
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  #18  
Old 02-18-2018, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
He could've bought a Cadillac Escalade and showed us some real class.
Or turned it into a super fly ride with tinted windows, glitter paint and 22" chrome rims with spinners. Know what I'm sayin' homie?
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  #19  
Old 02-18-2018, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Jon A. View Post
Or turned it into a super fly ride with tinted windows, glitter paint and 22" chrome rims with spinners. Know what I'm sayin' homie?
Sorry but, 'That's not me!' -->https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_CurONBAJnk
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  #20  
Old 02-18-2018, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
I just wonder how much more the glorified burban called the Caddy costs new? I always think "a fool and their money".
They were quite a pretty penny more when new, and tend to hold their value much better than their chevy/gmc counterparts... pretty much solely because of their popularity with a certain demographic.

I will say, I quite like the Escalades more than their counterparts, at least when they've been well taken care of, and not butchered with 22s and tints and aftermarket radios. Very comfy and luxurious.

Also, I once walked into a friend's body shop, and found him putting Escalade body trim onto a Tahoe. I asked him what he was doing. He said "I'm making a Escahoe."
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  #21  
Old 02-19-2018, 05:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
Sorry but, 'That's not me!' -->https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_CurONBAJnk
My bad T, I forgot the hydros. I must have been totally tripping.

Last edited by Jon A.; 02-19-2018 at 05:12 AM.
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  #22  
Old 03-30-2019, 09:59 AM
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Well, I did something stupid yesterday. ..Pa woke me up a bit early yesterday and said "come down quick I left a light on in my car yesterday and it won't start" After a brief futile attempt to start it off a charger I pushed it outa the garage and started my burban to jump it off of and whilst turning my burban around in the driveway half asleep I backed into a tree (that bird outhouse AKA dead tree woulda been gone last fall if ma hadn't asked me to hold off).

From a distance, you can't tell, but I now need a new rear bumper and factory hitch... The structure under the plastic step in the bumper busted free on one side and got punched in ~2.5" (the plastic step mostly hides it), the hitch also got pushed in some distance, is now a bit crooked and the metal tube that is it's biggest piece of metal split open in a couple of places (If It hadn't cracked I'd probably have tow chained it to the lincoln and tried to yank it straight).

The good news is the frame appears to be fine...So I just need to find the right parts to bolt on...I'm probably going to leave it for now. I'm about a week out from paying off a student loan, and once I do that I'm going to have to save all my money for the ETF to be able to buy anything I haven't committed to yet.

I'm nota happy camper.
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Last edited by Electronic M; 03-30-2019 at 10:04 AM.
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  #23  
Old 03-30-2019, 10:15 AM
WISCOJIM WISCOJIM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
I'm not a happy camper.
But did you get your dad's car started?

.
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  #24  
Old 03-30-2019, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by WISCOJIM View Post
But did you get your dad's car started?

.
Yeah, eventually.
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  #25  
Old 03-30-2019, 01:46 PM
Chip Chester Chip Chester is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
...I'm not a happy camper.
If you are a camper, happy or not, I really recommend replacing that trailer hitch with a real one, instead of the factory issue version. That is, if you plan on towing anything and not just toting bikes or something.

I have an '03 2500, and had contact from someone from the NHTSB about those hitches. Evidently quite a few failures due to bad welds.

Just a glance when first looking at it convinced me to replace the OEM hitch with one from a real hitch mfg. and not the exhaust pipe vendor (according to the guy at NHTSB.) I opted for both high capacity and extra tongue weight capacity, because I both tow and haul things on a hitch carrier.
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  #26  
Old 03-30-2019, 07:21 PM
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I had a 3/5 tonne Urbanizer 4X3 & a Wiesel to boot. You could only get the Weasel w/a 4.11 back in '82, 45-50 MPH was the realistic top speed. 65 was possible, but it was in Major Patne at that, & anything beyond the valves wanted to float Me & Generous Motors put 3 motors in it B4 I hollered "Calfrope ! & got a Wagoneer Limited in '88. But except for the verdammte motor, its TOUGH to beat a Urbanizer, for what all they can haul. In fact, if you CAN'T haul something in one, you gotta aks yrself "Do I REALLY need this ?!?"...Boy, we had Big Fun in Sandy's Suburban Social club back in the day, too-I'm pretty sure a couple kids were conceived in it. Mine had Captain's Chairs, but I could still get a good 8-10 people in it. They'd all get in the "Back-Back"behind the 3rd seat where I couldn't swat 'em. I bought a Blaupunkt Berlin & 4 Jensen Triaxials & THAT tickled everybody, too. Had more fun in The Urbanizer than I've had in any other vehicle, before or since. Just wish that 6.2 litre Weasel hadn't been such an unmitigated POS-I might still have it...
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  #27  
Old 03-30-2019, 07:24 PM
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Gotdangit, Fat Fingered Freddie- 4X4 & 3/4 tonne... This is what happens when you have "Cadillacs" & CAN'T EFFIN' SEE.....(GRRRRRRRRRRRRRR...)
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  #28  
Old 07-15-2019, 05:12 PM
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Well I ended up buying a used bumper and hitch off of a Yukon. The corner cross brace brackets were rustier than the ones on my old bumper so I performed the punishing act of swapping them....the carriage bolts they used have such a small squared off shank that removing them with anything other than a grinder is barely possible. End result turned out nice though.

Then the weekend before the 4th and into the 4th I ended up re-repairing the driver's side rust out on the rear quarter and rocker panel. The rocker had rusted out before and had a Bondo patch with a empty bag of cheese puffs and a purchase order ticket from a crummy Mexican body shop that did the the repair. They also fixed the quarter being mashed in in a collision the previous owners were in by covering it in 1/2" thick layer of body filler....

Seeing the old repairs failing and not wanting to fill holes bigger than a quarter with body filler, but not wanting to spend $500 on buying a welder or the time to learn to weld I came up with a unique solution. I cut squared off holes removing the rusted through sections of sheet metal and grinding the edges to bare metal. I then took the bare edges and tinned them with my 80W soldering iron in roughly 1/4" perimeter around the hole, did the same for a piece of 26guage sheet steel cut bigger than the hole, painted the untinned inside surface of the patch then soldered it on and covered it with body filler and paint to hide it...it went great on the quarter (no one can tell it was patched). The rocker was tough because the bottom section I was patching had a sharp bend that my initial approach could not properly duplicate, and it is not perfect but much harder to spot than a over 2' long rust hole... I considered re-doing it but with vacation (that truck went with on) under a week away I was lucky to complete it at all...
Passenger side is the same but the rust is a bit worse... I'm probably going to fix that too.
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Last edited by Electronic M; 07-15-2019 at 05:17 PM.
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  #29  
Old 07-15-2019, 07:16 PM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
Well I ended up buying a used bumper and hitch off of a Yukon. The corner cross brace brackets were rustier than the ones on my old bumper so I performed the punishing act of swapping them....the carriage bolts they used have such a small squared off shank that removing them with anything other than a grinder is barely possible. End result turned out nice though.

Then the weekend before the 4th and into the 4th I ended up re-repairing the driver's side rust out on the rear quarter and rocker panel. The rocker had rusted out before and had a Bondo patch with a empty bag of cheese puffs and a purchase order ticket from a crummy Mexican body shop that did the the repair. They also fixed the quarter being mashed in in a collision the previous owners were in by covering it in 1/2" thick layer of body filler....

Seeing the old repairs failing and not wanting to fill holes bigger than a quarter with body filler, but not wanting to spend $500 on buying a welder or the time to learn to weld I came up with a unique solution. I cut squared off holes removing the rusted through sections of sheet metal and grinding the edges to bare metal. I then took the bare edges and tinned them with my 80W soldering iron in roughly 1/4" perimeter around the hole, did the same for a piece of 26guage sheet steel cut bigger than the hole, painted the untinned inside surface of the patch then soldered it on and covered it with body filler and paint to hide it...it went great on the quarter (no one can tell it was patched). The rocker was tough because the bottom section I was patching had a sharp bend that my initial approach could not properly duplicate, and it is not perfect but much harder to spot than a over 2' long rust hole... I considered re-doing it but with vacation (that truck went with on) under a week away I was lucky to complete it at all...
Passenger side is the same but the rust is a bit worse... I'm probably going to fix that too.
I saw the repair job you did on the one side and I was very impressed with your workmanship. Keep up the good work!
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  #30  
Old 07-15-2019, 07:41 PM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
I saw the repair job you did on the one side and I was very impressed with your workmanship. Keep up the good work!
Thanks! That patch on the front passenger fender was the trial run preceding the refresh of the drivers' side. The rear quarter patch I did I actually got better than the repair I showed you (the rocker honestly ended up worse though).

The one you saw I could find the patch with light at the right angle...the one I did since then I can't even figure out exactly where the patch is anymore.
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