#136
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All right, so you just locate a station near the top, ascertain the frequency, and
then adjust the oscillator trimmer to bring it to the correct spot. A simple comment, alignment can be done on the bench with a signal generator, just jamming the needle at either end of the range, and using the two frequencies specified (530 and 1620), or in fact just the higher one since the coil is non-adjustable. I don't think you need to worry about a bit of surface rust. I think your electrical restoration is nearly complete. Congratulations, I look forward to the update in your site. And I believe I already got all the credit due to me, which is not that much, after all you did all the manipulations! This thread possibly contains more posts over its lifetime than all the rest of videokarma, and I believe this means something... |
#137
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All right... Hope to have the set fully adjusted by tonight...
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#138
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WoHoo! was tuning the set and I noticed my 6AQ5s have a faint blue glow to them... looks exactly like the "flourescence" described here:
http://www.jacmusic.com/html/article...w/blueglow.htm Only noticeable in near-blackness. Looks pretty cool, and sounds great... hope to get some pics if I can; the dial lights give off a lot of light, so I'll have to block them with some cardstock or so. Still waiting for some fainter stations to come in so I can adjust the antenna trimmer I did, however, bump up the stations to where they belong. |
#139
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Whoops... double post, but I just _had_ to upload this (click for full resolution, ~900KB)... Enjoy! (this is a 10 second exposure, BTW, will try for a better one when there's less ambient light.
Edit: and another, for good measure (15 second exposure, near full darkness): Also, physical restoration question for you guys; how do you clean the grille cloths on these sets? I can't remove this one without completely dismantling the cabinet. Last edited by VintagePC; 07-23-2010 at 06:48 AM. |
#140
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Grille cloth: see if you can find a dry cleaning spray can called K2R. It's dry cleaning solution with chalk in it. Shake it up, spray it on, let it dry thoroughly for half an hour. The solution dissolves the dirt and the chalk soaks up the dirty stuff. Then you brush or vacuum the chalk off. Remove speakers first. If you can't find that you could try a spray foam upholstery cleaner. Before I used anything I'd try it on a little spot to make sure it wouldn't hurt anything.
Thinking about winding coils I remembered this video a guy made using a coil winder. The winder is really neat but what's neater is the trouble he went to making the video, coordinating the music right down to the scissors snip etc. I wrote and told him so a long time ago. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIOocMoRsYQ
__________________
Reece Perfection is hard to reach with a screwdriver. |
Audiokarma |
#141
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My goodness, that was incredible... and all hand built by the looks of it!
Perhaps I should dig up my Lego Mindstorms kit and build something similar Edit: Seems we can't get K2R here in Canada... I tried some PowerOut upholstry foam on a small spot, and it seems to be all right. Last edited by VintagePC; 07-23-2010 at 09:45 AM. |
#142
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All right... Just an update for those following/interested. I've emptied the cabinet, and I'm currently working on that. I've spent the afternoon with a heat gun and various scrapers getting the multiple layers of paint off. Most is done, just a side panel and the legs to go. (Edit: and the record player "box" as well)
Hope to varathane those tomorrow, we'll see how far I get. Reece: I've seen you re-veneer some stuff in other threads, what type of glue do you use/recommend? the substrate here is hardboard. (I'm not going to cover up the maple frame). |
#143
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Use any wood glue, like Elmer's or Titebond or any other brand. The process of sticking the veneer depends on the type you get. What I used was "raw" veneer, very thin (and cheap) with no backing, process described in my Firestone restoration thread down the page. Other kinds are self-stick or with a paper backing, follow mfr's. directions.
__________________
Reece Perfection is hard to reach with a screwdriver. |
#144
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"Will this thread never die?" you ask.
Small update to the build log, and layout change to the site... After being shocked at veneer prices (this cabinet needs a LOT), I'm going to go with some oak I already have on hand... Last edited by VintagePC; 07-27-2010 at 02:09 PM. |
#145
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I don't get any commission from these people, but I found this pretty cheap; it's what I used.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...&filter=veneer
__________________
Reece Perfection is hard to reach with a screwdriver. |
Audiokarma |
#146
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Yeah, I had a look at their site... the prices are much more reasonable than here (something like $19 per square meter vs $29 in store here)
Two problems though; the first is that shipping to Canada tacks on another $15 bucks, and the second is that the area I need to veneer is a bit more than is in 3 packs, so I'd have to get 4 (this is 10"). The second is that I'd like to avoid seams if I can, which 10" won't let me do... I'd need at least 24" which I already have on hand (as oak) and I'd rather use it than let it go to pot (It was wrapped in a newspaper from 1980!!) I've been experimenting with some scrap pieces to get a feel for how it behaves with the glue (bought plenty!) (My spare resistors also arrived today) ...so almost there! |
#147
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Quick status update... Started veneering; what I found works best here (espcially because there are a lot of splits; I need something a little less "instant") is to glue it to the hardboard, and weight it down (45 kg of cat litter works well!)... Then after the glue has dried for a few hours, break out the iron and smooth out the bumps (if any).
Great tip, Reece- I never thought to re-activate the glue with heat; I knew it could be done with hide/fish glues, but not with plain 'ol PVA glue. |
#148
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Hi everyone,
Unfortunately, all work on the radio is now on hold. Over the weekend, my father fell off a ladder while preparing a second-story window for painting. He suffered a major head injury, and the doctors say that the damage is so severe that there is no chance of recovery. We've spent the last two days nearby in the ICU. I'd rather everyone knew than to leave you in the dark; we have incredibly supportive family and friends, and wish to thank them, and everyone else for their support. I do intend to finish the radio (in his memory) as soon as I am able; he was very skilled with woodworking, and veneering the cabinet was the last thing he helped me with before the event. The radio is only about a decade younger than he was, but he took joy in my progress on the project, and I think it only fitting to do this. I would ask that if you wish to communicate or express condolences that you do so via PM; he wouldn't have seen any sense in cluttering this thread or going off-topic. Thank you again to everyone for their support; I only wish I could have given you all better news. |
#149
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Back to work...
My father passed away peacefully last night, and at no point did he suffer. Things are slowly getting back on track, and I find the cabinet work is rather relaxing. I just finished putting on the last large pieces of veneer. The next step is to deal with any cracks and splits that are too large. Yet another off the wall question: This set (now) has external RCA input. Would it sound significantly different if I piped in a regular FM tuner versus a tube-based FM tuner? I've got a Pioneer F-50 AM/FM tuner (no amp, just RCA-out) which sounds nice thru my PC speakers. (Logitech X-530) |
#150
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So sorry about your father, a tragedy. We never know what may happen to us.
You should be OK with your Pioneer tuner. What I would do first is plug the AC of both of them in and turn them on without connecting the audio jacks yet. See if you get any significant voltage (low AC volts range on meter) between the outer shell of the plug from the tuner to the outer shell of the jack on the Fleetwood. Try turning one AC plug over and recheck, ditto on the other AC plug. Choose the combination that gives the least voltage (if any.) Should only be just a handful of volts. If it happened to be more than that, I might consider putting a .1 mfd cap in the shield line between the units.
__________________
Reece Perfection is hard to reach with a screwdriver. |
Audiokarma |
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