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  #211  
Old 12-11-2015, 11:31 AM
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CoogarXR CoogarXR is offline
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Sure those speakers aren't 5.25? That's a common size between 6.5 and 4.
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  #212  
Old 12-11-2015, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoogarXR View Post
Sure those speakers aren't 5.25? That's a common size between 6.5 and 4.
Yes I am. The speaker hole in the door stamping is a whisker smaller than 5.25....You could not bolt a 5.25" in unless the mount tabs jut out beyond that measure. I can post pictures if you want.
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  #213  
Old 12-11-2015, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
Yes I am. The speaker hole in the door stamping is a whisker smaller than 5.25....You could not bolt a 5.25" in unless the mount tabs jut out beyond that measure. I can post pictures if you want.
Like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-G13...5+car+speakers

not affiliated,
jr
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  #214  
Old 12-11-2015, 05:59 PM
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You can search ebay, I have in the past found a few odd ball speakers normally
not available through stores.... Sometimes they have been pulled and sat around
for years and are OEM originals.... In some cases the parts may be used for years
then skipped 5 to 10 years, and the exact part is all of a sudden used on a new car
again...... My '73 mustang door handles the lift to open kind I have found in almost
exact size and design on a few Lincolns like yours.....

Also when it comes to speakers, they make some that are "Shallow" it
helps for keeping the original speaker grill and depth when it comes to
doors and window glass clearance.... Just add "Shallow" to your search
terms.... Also "Wizer cone" they are single wide range speakers that don't
include tweeters and also are in that shallow speaker dimension.....

.
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Last edited by Username1; 12-11-2015 at 06:06 PM.
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  #215  
Old 12-12-2015, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr_tech View Post
Thanks. You made me realize that speaker size does not necessarily take mount hole dimensions into account. 5.25" turned out to be the right size.

Squirrel boy, Thanks for reminding me to check window clearance (I'm surprised I did not think of it). I had plenty of it, but it is better to know than be surprised. I ended up going with dual cone like you said instead of 2 way speakers since they let the tweeters protrude from the front on those....There might have been enough room for that, but better safe than sorry.

The dead speaker in the passenger door has been changed, but I think I'll wait for the (Second!) new driver side power door lock motor to come to install the new driver side speaker (so the door is not disassembled more times than needed).

Since the old speaker had a foam seal on it's back to block air flow between it and the door frame I made a cardboard seal to approximate that.

Pictures of it.
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  #216  
Old 12-12-2015, 02:27 PM
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Looks like good work ! Those doors should have a set of 6X9's in them !
That would ROCK ! But then you would only get the window to open 4"...
Tradoffs.....

PS Maybe too late for this..... Don't forget about the plastic that keeps rain water
from getting on the speakers..... My mustang doors had that big polyethylene
sheet behind the speakers that I tore up getting it off the door frame..... At the
time I was not aware of the important role it played..... My cardboard door skin
assembly started to de-assembelate once it started getting moist.... Sucked.....

.
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  #217  
Old 12-12-2015, 03:29 PM
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The original speakers had no speaker frame openings on the top back side and no need for a rain shield. The new ones do have openings but the cone is not paper....
There is no plastic sheeting inside the doors on mine, but there is a sheet of tar paper between the door frame and door card...
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  #218  
Old 03-09-2016, 01:53 AM
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Back in early winter on a warm weekend me and a friend redid the rear brakes (the pad was so worn it's rivets were wearing groves into the rotor discs on the passenger side). We ended up having to replace the rear, pads, disc rotors, and calipers (the cylinders were stuck would barely compress enough to get the old pads and rotor back in). That went well, aside from two wrinkles: Emergency brakes don't work (and probably were bad before), and the pedal occasionally gets slightly soft. The Emergency brakes are some lever that ratchets the rear hydraulic cylinders to grab the rotor, but we could not figure out how to set it (I plan to read up and eventually revisit it), and the wire cable to one wheel was broken. The softness is not a big deal, but weird, we did a good job of bleeding the system, and it is not nearly as soft as that was when it acts up, but it does get softer than normal occasionally (and brake effectiveness drops a bit)....A partial release, and repress fixes it (or just push farther and have it suddenly stop hard) and it usually does not occur again on the same drive.

A weird thing is at a certain spot a couple miles into a drive at random times (done it twice so far) it will, taking off from a stop, suddenly start sputtering really bad like there is no fuel or spark, making almost no power, and be almost unresponsive to the gas pedal...It will go about half a block like that, stall, then not want to start. I had to floor it and crank it for a while to get it to go both times...Next time (if there is one) I plan to pop the hood, check for spark, then pull the fuel line to the carb, crank it and see if it's pumping fuel properly.

I got the other speaker in and RE-replaced the driver door power lock motor. I noticed the speakers are closed frame on top like the originals so no worries about water dripping on them. The driver lock mech is a lot more sticky with or without the motor than the passenger side (which is probably what killed the last motor) so I may have to take the lock mech apart and lube it soon.

I just had THE most fun drive I've had in it in ages, I discovered the auto-dimming high-beams work properly (boy are those fun), and picked up a 23"V-25"V Zenith TV (hard to tell the two sizes apart without a ruler) on the way. http://videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=266505

I love having a car with a cavernous trunk! I swear I had a piano in there once, and almost got the trunk lid latched with it in there.

DSCN1393 by Tom Carlson, on Flickr
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  #219  
Old 04-24-2016, 01:29 AM
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I've been planning to take da Batmobile to the ETF meet so some sprucing up has been under way.

2 weeks ago: oil change.

Last week: new master brake cylinder. The old master cyl was leaking badly on the seal facing the booster (and probably internally too). With the old master the brake fluid dropped almost 1/2" in under 20miles on it's last drive, and was spooky unreliable/spongy. The new master is not having any noticeable drop in reservoir level over a longer test span, and brake performance is perhaps the best since I've owned it. I think I've finally got the brakes right!


Yesterday: New Muffler. Unfortunately could not duplicate the tail pipe section aft of it. The stores don't stock bend sections sharper than 45 degrees and near 90 was needed....Tried to heat and bend a 45 to 90 but barely had any effect. Tried a local exhaust shop but they could not duplicate the pipe on time or within budget. Boo!


Got a chance to run it with the muffler off...It had epic muscle car sound, but it likes to backfire sans muffler...

With the new muffler it is whisper quiet. Me and my friend were joking while cruising "is the engine running? I can't hear it". Even floored there is little more than a mild "wooosh" from the exhaust with the new muffler. Now I can hear my radio without cranking it with the throttle. Part of me liked hearing the engine roar and burble too, with old bad exhaust, but a ~6 hour drive to the ETF with that volume level probably translates to hearing loss (and I've been MADE to NOT take it to interviews because the folks thought the exhaust noise made a bad impression)...

Just test packed it for the ETF and it did not seem to like being driven under that much load. I was having a hard time getting it over 50MPH. It was sputtering like (hard to tell with the exhaust squelching it) the 2 previous times it randomly sputtered and stalled (which I complained about in my last post)...Then it smoothed out after some time floored and started gaining speed. I think I'll try finding the fuel filter and if it don't have one I'll try adding one. She seems do the random sputter and sometimes stall bit when below a quarter tank I've noticed. I'll probably drive her with less than a full load of TVs (I'll stick to claimed sets) to go easy on the suspension and the less than 100% carb and transmission.

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  #220  
Old 04-24-2016, 06:01 AM
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Kamakiri Kamakiri is offline
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I'd seriously doubt that an extra ~300 lb worth of televisions is going to make any difference in the way that a 5,000 lb car performs. Definitely change the fuel filter.
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  #221  
Old 04-24-2016, 08:43 AM
consoleguy67 consoleguy67 is offline
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You may also want to check the Duraspark module. These will also exhibit the same symptoms.
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  #222  
Old 04-24-2016, 12:36 PM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakiri View Post
I'd seriously doubt that an extra ~300 lb worth of televisions is going to make any difference in the way that a 5,000 lb car performs. Definitely change the fuel filter.
Does the car use an in-tank fuel pump? That would be worth looking into as well.
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  #223  
Old 04-24-2016, 08:54 PM
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The fuel pump is mechanical, mounted on the lower front of the engine.

Is there a recommended procedure for testing the duraspark module short of replacing it?

I changed the fuel filter today. All they had was a Fram made part, which I'm not keen on. The replacement is like a cheap joke compared to the original. It is literally just a pipe with a dome of fine window screen pushed into it (and when I got it the screen was loose). Only reason I installed it is because checking it's connection point showed that if the screen comes loose it is not possible for it to get sucked into the carb...It does flow better than the old one so hopefully that did some good.

It was balking and running ruff for a spell today early on (at low speed), but after a few minutes I was able to get it over 65 on an uphill. And faster on level ground (I had to speed to test it so I did not try to keep that speed long).
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  #224  
Old 04-25-2016, 08:29 PM
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i remember these!worked for ford almost 35 years.overhauled many carbs and installed miles of timing chains.love lincolns and i drive a cadillac!
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  #225  
Old 05-01-2016, 09:49 AM
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maxhifi maxhifi is offline
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Stalling under load sure sounds like a fuel delivery problem. First make sure you're getting adequate fuel pressure to carb (I've done this by pulling HV wire off centre of ignition coil, disconnecting carb from fuel pump, putting thumb over end of fuel line and getting someone to crank engine.. It should build up a lot of pressure like a garden hose... Be careful if you do it this way though!!!) then check carb for proper operation and adjustment. Also, if you haven't recently, verify ignition timing. Actually maybe do that first since it's easy.

Last edited by maxhifi; 05-01-2016 at 09:54 AM.
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