Recently Acquired 1969 Motorola Color Tube Tv

[Notimetolooz]

That is a Motorola brand cap and I don't know whether it is paper of plastic film. It is a molded plastic case.
There were some caps by Sprague that looked similar. The ones with white printing were paper, the ones with red printing were plastic film.
That was a situation that was not very common where it was hard to tell from the general look.
Those could actually be made by Sprague but branded by Motorola, that kind of thing happened many times.
If you have a capacitance leakage tester that tested using hundreds of volts it would tell if the capacitor is good.
I'm pretty sure someone else may know how they are constructed.
I have cut similar caps apart but it can be hard to tell, the paper can be extremely thin and look transparent like plastic. They also can be very tightly wound.
Also from the time the TV is from they could be either one. Sometimes the SAMS parts list states if it is paper or plastic. SAMS also lists electrolytic caps separately.
With out knowing for sure, I would not replace those unless they were suspected to cause a problem.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Notimetolooz

That is a Motorola brand cap and I don't know whether it is paper of plastic film. It is a molded plastic case.
There were some caps by Sprague that looked similar. The ones with white printing were paper, the ones with red printing were plastic film.
That was a situation that was not very common where it was hard to tell from the general look.
Those could actually be made by Sprague but branded by Motorola, that kind of thing happened many times.
If you have a capacitance leakage tester that tested using hundreds of volts it would tell if the capacitor is good.
I'm pretty sure someone else may know how they are constructed.
I have cut similar caps apart but it can be hard to tell, the paper can be extremely thin and look transparent like plastic. They also can be very tightly wound.
Also from the time the TV is from they could be either one. Sometimes the SAMS parts list states if it is paper or plastic. SAMS also lists electrolytic caps separately.
With out knowing for sure, I would not replace those unless they were suspected to cause a problem.

If I couldn't prove it's not paper I'd change it...$0.50 and a minute of soldering is easier than having more things to doubt after a recap when it doesn't work.

[old_tv_nut]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

If I couldn't prove it's not paper I'd change it...$0.50 and a minute of soldering is easier than having more things to doubt after a recap when it doesn't work.

Ditto.

Where was this in the circuit?

[Lain94]

Originally Posted by old_tv_nut

Ditto.

Where was this in the circuit?

The capacitor was physically on the top part of the chassis near the high voltage box. As far as the schematic goes it looks to be in the general area where the vertical output tube is and the other stuff related to the vertical.

[Notimetolooz]

Electronic M has a point. I could go either way with this.
However if you are a newbie to this kind of stuff (and you sound like you are) you may create more problems than solve them.
Not only do you have to get the type, value and voltage rating right but you must not make a mistake connecting to the right points. With electrolytic caps you also get the polarity right. It takes a level of concentration that someone that has done a lot of can take for granted. I have come to this conclusion after helping many newbies.
I would definitely replace the electrolytic caps, those almost always have a metal case even if that is covered with a plastic film or cardboard.
You really should get the service info on the set, that may clear up some facts like the type of capacitors and where they are in the circuit.

[Lain94]

Originally Posted by Notimetolooz

Electronic M has a point. I could go either way with this.
However if you are a newbie to this kind of stuff (and you sound like you are) you may create more problems than solve them.
Not only do you have to get the type, value and voltage rating right but you must not make a mistake connecting to the right points. With electrolytic caps you also get the polarity right. It takes a level of concentration that someone that has done a lot of can take for granted. I have come to this conclusion after helping many newbies.
I would definitely replace the electrolytic caps, those almost always have a metal case even if that is covered with a plastic film or cardboard.
You really should get the service info on the set, that may clear up some facts like the type of capacitors and where they are in the circuit.

Yeah I am going to be very careful and take my time with this recap and repair for sure. I will also check everything over before I attempt to power back on. I am taking photos of everything in the chassis as well after and before each step. I do have the sams photo fact for this tv luckily but it only seems to state if a capacitor is electrolytic or not. The part list makes no disctinction between ceramic, mylar, wax paper ect though.

[old_tv_nut]

Originally Posted by Lain94

The capacitor was physically on the top part of the chassis near the high voltage box. As far as the schematic goes it looks to be in the general area where the vertical output tube is and the other stuff related to the vertical.

I think it would be good to slow down and identify a part in the schematic before you replace it or ask questions. Then you can get better opinions on your options.

[Lain94]

Originally Posted by old_tv_nut

I think it would be good to slow down and identify a part in the schematic before you replace it or ask questions. Then you can get better opinions on your options.

Will do. The biggest concern I have at this point is not the recapping. I am pretty confident in getting that taken care of correctly. I just know that the CRT is very high hour. I don't have the equipment to test it but I can tell its is going to be probably a bit dim, since the color drivers are turned all the way up. Someone mentioned about replacing it with a superior newer RCA picture tube which I am all for doing if it is compatible.

[zeno]

If you are chasing a specific problem you can tack in a cap
of the same value & voltage as a test.
If not leave it be for now.
If you are recapping the set just do a few at a time & recheck as
you go. Its always best to get the PS running first the Hoz/HV
then vert. In other words one stage at a time. Mass recapping
very often leads to a broken set thats MUCH harder to fix.

73 Zeno
LFOD !