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  #46  
Old 11-20-2012, 05:28 PM
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Aibo said that he never took the TR-1030p apart. I have taken every model in the Travelvision line apart, and I have several parts units.
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  #47  
Old 11-20-2012, 06:07 PM
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oh ok i got a brain fart.....lol...... well whats the deal with the 1010 and the loss of verticle, no one seems to know and 8 out of 10 have the same problem.
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  #48  
Old 11-20-2012, 06:12 PM
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Have you checked the Yoke to see if any of the coils are open? Loss of vertical is usually a bad cap, or an open trace on the circuit board - are you sure that all the caps are good?
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  #49  
Old 11-20-2012, 06:19 PM
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i changed all the electrolytic caps and did check the yoke.
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  #50  
Old 11-20-2012, 06:26 PM
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Well, the next thing would be to use a scope and check waveforms, but you probably do not have 1, and neither do I - I do not do the kind of extensive work on electronics that require the expense of purchasing a scope.
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  #51  
Old 11-20-2012, 06:46 PM
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ok well ill put it aside for now then. all i can think of what might be left thats wrong is a poly cap, tantaum cap.

Last edited by timmy; 11-20-2012 at 06:50 PM.
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  #52  
Old 11-20-2012, 06:50 PM
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If I remember correctly, the SAMS manuals have a troubleshooting section for each symptom - does it give a list of parts to check for loss of vertical?
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  #53  
Old 11-20-2012, 06:56 PM
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no the schematic i have dont list anything for troubleshooting and its not sams thats probably why. i forgot to add that there is no voltage at a 200v poly cap,either side, nor is there any voltage at the damper diode which there should be it has hv but who knows.

Last edited by timmy; 11-20-2012 at 07:07 PM.
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  #54  
Old 11-20-2012, 07:09 PM
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Yes Sandy....I did say all the "TR" sets are the same wall wart. The CT-101 is not a TR set.

I can't really speak for the TR sets that are not 1010,1020 or 1030 though. I don't have the very first one from like the early 70's (TR-001).....or the first of the 80's sets (TR-1000). I've never seen a chance to get these two sets...but at this point, I'm not sure I want those now after the horror of trying (and making MUCH worse) to fix two 1010s now.

I'm the one who never took the 1030 to bits. This set showed up FLAWLESS and works that way too.....so no reason for me to give it my REVERSE Midas touch. I love working on all the small sets, but no longer EVER look forward to taking one of these apart again.

I was lucky to fix my FIRST little 1010 just once when it lost vertical (would work when you squeezed the case). It was just crappy soldering.

I fixed the 1020 when it first showed up. It ALSO had dodgy traces.

I do remember that I saw a big electrolytic in the 1010 that was all on it's own, and did replace it, but really for no other reason than it was easy and I had no idea what that cap does all on it's own like that.
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Last edited by AiboPet; 11-20-2012 at 07:21 PM.
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  #55  
Old 11-20-2012, 07:11 PM
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Well, I am out of ideas. Try doing point to point continuity on each trace to see if there is an open circuit somewhere. Good luck.
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  #56  
Old 11-20-2012, 07:15 PM
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The Tr-1000p uses the same AC adapter as all the other models, except that it has an adjustable switch on it for 110v / 220v for worldwide use. The CT-101 uses a standard barrel connector 12v output. The TR-001 uses a completely different adapter with a special 3-pin connector.
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  #57  
Old 11-20-2012, 07:21 PM
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i did attempt point to point continuity but proved to be extremly difficult due to both sides have traces and they will change over from front to back. but i could go back at some point and try again. oh and the white paint on the board has traces under that and cant see which way they go. boy they are still getting even how many years later,lol,lol.......

Last edited by timmy; 11-20-2012 at 07:29 PM.
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  #58  
Old 11-21-2012, 01:32 AM
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Hi Timmy,

Here is the zoomed section of the TR-1010P's vertical scan section.

From reading the posts above, i understand that you don't have an oscilloscope, correct?

Have a friend, a contact at work or a neighbour that would have a scope?

Personally, i would try the following method:
V Scan energy is at 60 Hz. As power is needed to deflect the beam it generates a quite powerful magnetic field.

Do you have a telephone amplifier with a pickup coil?
do you have a small audio Amp, i'm thinking of a 1W battery powered amp with a small speaker?

My idea is to use a makeshift system with a pickup coil and an amplifier, placing the coil next to the TR-1010's deflection yoke and listening for a strong 60 cycle hum.

As the CRT shows a flat line (no V Scan) i suspect that you will not pickup a strong 60 Hz signal, but the gadget can help you while poking around in the V section, maybe you have a cut trace, bad deflection yoke connector, dry solder joint, or even a bad new capacitor.

Just a Rube Goldberg device, but it's helped me out frequently.

I used a tel pickup coil + a small cased Amp i found at Radio Shack (years ago).

Good luck!

Best Regards

jhalphen
Paris/France
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Panasonic TR-1010P-02 - V Scan Section.jpg (68.1 KB, 24 views)
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  #59  
Old 11-21-2012, 05:36 AM
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hello jhalphen, now thats interesting and 60hz i didnt know. this seems like such a common problem with these tvs and im surprised that no where on the web someone found out what it is. solder joints , traces, caps, hmm i dont know. i recapped the deflection board and got the same result, line across the screen. its so frustrating to know what its lacking, the verticle signal, but cannot find it. it could be one of those smd chip capacitors on the bottom but if i knew which one thats responsible for the signal timing i would go and change it and hope for the best.
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  #60  
Old 11-21-2012, 06:17 AM
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Hi Timmy,

I pulled from the Web the spec sheet on the AN5760, the Vertical processor & output chip of the TR-1010P. It's clipped to this message.

Quote:
im surprised that no where on the web someone found out what it is. solder joints , traces, caps, hmm i dont know. i recapped the deflection board and got the same result, line across the scree
Alas, there is a standard fault with a given model of TV. There are a fair amount of elecrolytic caps - i counted 7 in the Panasonic application note and as you said you had changed all the electrolytics, i would carefully go over each and check that one was not mounted with the + & - terminals reversed. In tight circuitry or when tired, even trained technicians sometimes make mistakes.

Of course a new Cap mais sometimes be bad but if yours are from a reputable brand, Panasonic, Nichicon,... this very seldom happens.

If you like repairing electronics, an ESR capacitor checker would be a valuable tool to have. ESR stands for Effective Series Resistance. The great advantage of this type of checker is that you can check electrolytic Caps in-circuit without desoldering them - a phenomenal time-saver when troubleshooting.

With an ESR meter you can check electrolytics from 1µF to the sky.
Under 1µ & non-electrolytic caps, the meter is useless.

to buy one, search a reputable test gear dealer such as this one:
http://www.tequipment.net/index.html

Other members may suggest a brand/model they like.

Best Regards

jhalphen
Paris/France
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