Help Identify My New Zenith

[jstout66]

also take a close up of the Zenith label on the picture tube.. THAT may have a code date.

[TinCanAlley]

Originally Posted by jstout66

also take a close up of the Zenith label on the picture tube.. THAT may have a code date.

Well this is the label, but there's no standard date on it, so maybe it's a code.

[TinCanAlley]

I just ordered a few of the 22-5001s from Talon Electronics. They NOS/OEM Zenith parts. Hopefully they'll be here early next week.

Time to break out the paint brush and vacuum and do some cleaning.

[jstout66]

Zeno.. I LOVE your posts!
Replies are always dead on, and.. you kind of remind me of my Uncle.
I worked in his shop in high-school, and I remember the recall in the CC2 line. I can still picture the replacement kit. We lucked out, and only had 1 customer ( on a set we sold) with a necked tube. Zenith did the right thing tho, and paid for a new tube, even tho the set was out of warranty.
Why you remind me of him... I think it WAS the T993 chassis on Magnavox. He hated working on ANY Magnavox, and there were a few we saw with necked tubes, and he told them the SAME thing.. ( take it where you bought it)

[zeno]

Thank you for the kind words. I do try to keep things right
but I also use a lot of IIRC's. It has been 40 yrs and if I
am wrong I dont mind being corrected.
Aside from family the TV biz was the best times of my life.
Remembering back at the first flat chassis I saw it was
love at first site. I just wanted to stare at it & fondle it !!!
( no I am NOT a sicko ) I just knew even as a snot nosed
punk teen it was something special never to be improved
or matched, a one of a kind, a last shot of balls out
bullet proof US product.

Thanks for the memories 73 Zeno

[Jon A.]

Originally Posted by zeno

Remembering back at the first flat chassis I saw it was
love at first site. I just wanted to stare at it & fondle it !!!
( no I am NOT a sicko )

I hope you discharged it first.

Seriously though, not sick, just hardcore. I think the same can be said of a lot of us here.

[jstout66]

HA. Same here (with the IIRC)
When my Uncle got back from Vietnam, he bought out the Zenith dealer. ( I think in 1971) and I always LOVED hanging out in the store. By the late 70's, I worked there thru high-school. My memories are of the CC2 line and System 3. We hardly ever had a repair on anything he sold, except for a tripler once in awhile. Not sure if Zenith's liked to eat them, or if it was just the era where not everyone had A/C, and the Nebraska summers had anything to do with it. I loved house-call day. In that era, we made TONS of money of the POS CTC-38 chasis. Our town was small, but we had 2 other shops.. the Sylvania dealer and the RCA/Magnavox dealer. The RCA dealer had been in business since 1949, but once the old man died and the sons took over, the repairs they did left much to be desired, which.. kept us busy. Grandpa worked in the store as well. The most hated sets for us ( on the bench) were any catalog store sets, and Motorola color sets....
And yep.. the flat chassis set was m favorite. Would love to find one now.

[Electronic M]

I just got the non-remote non-avanti incarnation of this set for free.

[TinCanAlley]

When I'm doing the grayscale adjustment, do I turn the color control down? It says to turn it down, but that's when you don't have a b&w program. It says to turn it to minimum if you're using a color program. But what about for the G2 adjustments? Like I said in an earlier post, I can't get the red raster line to show (even with the control at max and the tap on HI). My gut tells me that if the color control is active in setup, then that would really make it more difficult to adjust the G2s as the color control can be in many different positions at the start of calibration.

Also, it says to adjust the G2s with their taps on HI and after you've adjusted them to use a B&W program and move the taps to remove color in the white areas. What I need to know is if adjusting the taps doesn't remove the color, is that because the G2 was adjusted too hi compared to the other guns? Would I then redo the G2s or just reduce the one showing in the white areas?

I hope this makes sense.

[andy]

...

[TinCanAlley]

Originally Posted by andy

You always want to do gray scale with the color off, or with a pure B/W signal. The G2 controls adjust the brightness of each color, and the taps adjust the contrast of each color. You adjust the G2 for neutral balance of dark gray (almost black), and the (drive) taps are used to balance high brightness areas of the picture.

My one complaint about Zenith TVs from the 70's is that to save money they replaced the drive controls with those three position jumpers. It makes it impossible to get perfect gray scale unless you get really lucky with the CRT.

Having said all that, the first thing I would do is measure the G2 voltage to all 3 guns to make sure that the G2 controls are working properly. Normally, you should be able to adjust the service line from black to fairly bright on all 3 guns. If the G2 supply is low, or there's a problem with one of the controls, you won't be able to adjust it properly.

Where would I measure the G2 voltages? From the CRT socket? If so, do I just pull the socket off while it's operating, put the black probe to chassis ground and stick the red one in each socket and note the voltage? Do I move the G2 control back and forth while measuring?

I have the service manual, but it's the electronic version and it's not clear enough to note all the voltages on the socket. These are the ones I can read okay, but the 13 and 4 are blurry:

Pin:

2- 143V
11 - 142V
6 - 142V
7 - 36.4V
12 - 36.4V
3 - 36.4V
5 - 540V
13 - 640V
4 - 540V
9 - 3.5kV

If those voltages are correct, I can do all but the last 4 as my meter only goes as high as 500V. Oh, and are those AC or DC volts?

[zeno]

Originally Posted by TinCanAlley

Where would I measure the G2 voltages? From the CRT socket? If so, do I just pull the socket off while it's operating, put the black probe to chassis ground and stick the red one in each socket and note the voltage? Do I move the G2 control back and forth while measuring?

I have the service manual, but it's the electronic version and it's not clear enough to note all the voltages on the socket. These are the ones I can read okay, but the 13 and 4 are blurry:

Pin:

2- 143V
11 - 142V
6 - 142V
7 - 36.4V
12 - 36.4V
3 - 36.4V
5 - 540V
13 - 640V
4 - 540V
9 - 3.5kV

If those voltages are correct, I can do all but the last 4 as my meter only goes as high as 500V. Oh, and are those AC or DC volts?

Without going into much detail.........
I always pulled the IF jack when doing a grey scale if it was easy.
This gives a totaly dead raster or line.
Pin 9 is focus so not to worry for now. Pins 5-6-13 are G-2 and
may concern you. Measure at the chassis unless you have a test socket.
The only thing in the socket is spark gaps & 1 K resistors.
they do go bad but usually the focus pin from too much focus voltage
or constant high humditity.....
I highly recomend a rebuilt Fluke meter
off e-by. Got them for both sons & do more then the cheapo
meters. Also can drop them, hit people with it etc & will keep
running. Just be sure it goes to 1 KV DC. They run abt $75
but will last your life. Beond 1 KV you need an HV probe..........

73 Zeno

[andy]

...

[TinCanAlley]

The set is making itself at home.