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  #121  
Old 03-17-2015, 10:53 AM
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maxhifi maxhifi is offline
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Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
In the fall after I got it she was down 2 Quarts so on the advice of my friend who told me.
This is absolutely and completely wrong... there's enough types of transmission fluid it could make your head spin (it did mine), and the annoyance of my 68 Ford was that you could only get it in quarts, when I really would have preferred to be able to buy gallons!

The big difference is that the clutch packs in old fords are designed for the friction characteristics of the older fluids, and vice versa... i.e. type F, Mercon, Mercon V, etc. It's a bit of a science and not a good idea to mix and match.
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  #122  
Old 03-17-2015, 11:10 AM
WISCOJIM WISCOJIM is offline
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Is this cruiser going to make it to the WARCI meet on the 29th?

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  #123  
Old 03-17-2015, 11:14 AM
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Here's some info for you on type "F"

https://mobiloil.com/en/automatic-tr...uid/type-f-atf

Basically it says check your dipstick, but I would say probably you need type F.

Oh and another detail - most fords use whatever their transmission fluid is for the power steering fluid, NOT a separate type of power steering fluid. If you topped it up with "power steering fluid" a la general motors, it could have provoked a leak. With my old F250 the original owner had done just this and the pump leaked... I basically just topped it up regularly, losing power steering was the least of my worries with that old beast.

I just got my 86 Toyota pickup back on the road after she sat for a month with a seized caliper. Usually I enjoy mechanic's work, but when it's cold and/or sloppy outside not so much.

Last edited by maxhifi; 03-17-2015 at 12:50 PM.
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  #124  
Old 03-17-2015, 04:15 PM
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@ Jim: Not if it keeps falling apart at the rate it's been. I'll probably make that meet (even if I've got to hitch a ride with Chris) unless something odd comes up.

@ maxhifi: Thanks for the info and the link. I checked the owners manual before leaving home or reading your posts. Type F was not directly specified, and there was a long number which I did not have time to search for online. I don't remember a number on the Xmission dip stick so I'm starting to think it does use type F (I'll check it when I get home).
Quote from your link: "For the makeup and refill in power steering systems of the following Ford vehicles:
1980 and older Lincoln, Continental, and Mark".....I refilled the low power steering tank with generic power steering fluid. I'm not sure what to do about that.

The new fuel tank strap(s) will be here tomorrow. Man was it a bear to get the old one off. The bolt was turning with the nut and I could not find access to the nut head. My solution was to borrow a wheel nut off my bike (same size piece), and tighten it on to the end of the bolt with a second wrench until it stuck enough to loosen the rusted nut. I don't think I should (or can) reuse the old nut and bolt, but there is no clear indication if it is included with the new straps or not. If it is not I wonder where I can get another nut like it if the straps don't come with some...
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  #125  
Old 03-17-2015, 05:02 PM
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I would have no problem to reuse that nut and bolt. Here's my procedure for making old junk like that useful.

1. Spray it with seafoam "deep creep" and let it soak in

2. Vigorously brush the threads clean with a stiff wire brush, and wipe clean with shop rag

3. Take apart the nut and bolt

4. Slather them in penetrating oil and then mount in a vice and wire brush them until clean

5. Clean up threads with tap and die if required.

You'll get it together, that nut and bolt are completely salvageable

As for the power steering fluid, doing a "flush" isn't a bad idea anyway... basically just return hose to drain... keep topping it up until the fluid comes out clean. You can find instructions for that in many place.. it's just another fun "job"

I would be willing to bet the power steering pump wants "type F" too

Last edited by maxhifi; 03-17-2015 at 05:07 PM.
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  #126  
Old 03-17-2015, 06:48 PM
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Unfortunately I don't really have any of those tools... I also worry that even if I do get them apart and back together that next time I need to undo that bolt it will be a solid mass of rust.

The dipstick says it uses ESP-M2C138-CJ transmission fluid, so it does not seem to be type F.
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  #127  
Old 03-17-2015, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post

The dipstick says it uses ESP-M2C138-CJ transmission fluid, so it does not seem to be type F.
Dexron 3 should work fine.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0471&ppt=C0207
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  #128  
Old 03-18-2015, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by maxhifi View Post
I would have no problem to reuse that nut and bolt. Here's my procedure for making old junk like that useful.

1. Spray it with seafoam "deep creep" and let it soak in
You were right. I found another wrench that could hold the bolt head, oiled the nut, removed it, cleaned the oiled threads with a rag, twisted the nut on and off a few times, repeat, and voila it is about as smooth as a new nut and bolt now!
I'll might still get a new nut since I rounded the head a bit working on it.

Thanks for the motivation/advice.
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  #129  
Old 03-18-2015, 01:50 PM
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Congrats Electronic
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  #130  
Old 03-18-2015, 02:45 PM
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I just saw this thread, will have to read all of it....them 460s are happiest when the exhaust manifold are glowing a dull red. They like to work.

btw- you should have a C6 in it, that will note take type A or F fluid. Mercon should work. (and if you have to rebuild it you can do so on your kitchen table)

Id like to see you fit an E4OD in there.....
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  #131  
Old 03-18-2015, 02:54 PM
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You were right. I found another wrench that could hold the bolt head, oiled the nut, removed it, cleaned the oiled threads with a rag, twisted the nut on and off a few times, repeat, and voila it is about as smooth as a new nut and bolt now!
I'll might still get a new nut since I rounded the head a bit working on it.

Thanks for the motivation/advice.
Cool. It really did look OK to me, now in the future buy an aerosol can of "penetrating oil", and spray down whatever rusty bolts you want to loosen, and let it soak for a while. Some (exhaust manifold bolts for example) have been so bad, I have sprayed them once a day for a week before getting them off with reasonable force. I find that if the rust has started to swell, or if there's a lot of dirt on the bolt, the wire brush comes in handy.
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  #132  
Old 03-18-2015, 02:55 PM
WISCOJIM WISCOJIM is offline
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(and if you have to rebuild it you can do so on your kitchen table).
I'm not sure Jerry & Tina (his parents) would like that. Although I was always very impressed the way they supported Tom's hobbies.

Great set of parents you have there, Tom!

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  #133  
Old 03-18-2015, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by quaddriver View Post
I just saw this thread, will have to read all of it....them 460s are happiest when the exhaust manifold are glowing a dull red. They like to work.

btw- you should have a C6 in it, that will note take type A or F fluid. Mercon should work. (and if you have to rebuild it you can do so on your kitchen table)

Id like to see you fit an E4OD in there.....
Ain't got a table in there. The dining room table might be an option (the folks were refacing the kitchen cabinets and drilled right in to it by accident). Also got loads of workspace in the basement (see the My Digs thread I made a year ago).
Is it really that simple to rebuild one? I'm a bit of a neophyte when it comes to most car repair, and somehow I suspect I'd be more likely to add to the problems doing a DIY transmission rebuild....It would probably be interesting to learn though.

Those E4ODs are electronic controlled, so depending on the specifics of the control system it could be anywhere from easy to a nightmare...

Having an old car is the least parent-supported major endeavor I've yet undertaken. My Mom has often STRONGLY implied (if not outright stated) that she would rather I have new car than what I have/want to have....Like I or they (not like they would) could even afford that. Back before I got the linkn, and was searching for a car, Mom's constant unnatural looking at new/newish cars (most of which were models I find ugly) and going "that is pretty" or "you would look good in that" got nauseating real fast. There also have been a number of digging comments from her about my car that have sparked arguments.....At least Dad is fairly uninterested (better than annoying in my book) as long as nothing dangerous or funny happens.

I'm probably going to see if the wrecking yards have another Mark. I'm missing a small piece of chrome that goes on the A pillar and carries the back hood trim with the door trim, and one of the front cornering lights had the plastic cone the socket mounts to destroyed recently (I'm not sure when).

I discovered the horn also has crapped out the last drive I gave it a drive.
My new tank straps are at the auto parts store waiting for me I need to go there, get home and get going on it.
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  #134  
Old 03-18-2015, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
Having an old car is the least parent-supported major endeavor I've yet undertaken. My Mom has often STRONGLY implied (if not outright stated) that she would rather I have new car than what I have/want to have....Like I or they (not like they would) could even afford that. Back before I got the linkn, and was searching for a car, Mom's constant unnatural looking at new/newish cars (most of which were models I find ugly) and going "that is pretty" or "you would look good in that" got nauseating real fast. There also have been a number of digging comments from her about my car that have sparked arguments.....At least Dad is fairly uninterested (better than annoying in my book) as long as nothing dangerous or funny happens.
I feel the same way about newer cars. Buying and maintaining one I consider ugly would be a complete waste of money for me. Besides, newer cars are so full of airbags, sensors and cameras that they take almost all responsibility away from the driver.
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  #135  
Old 03-18-2015, 09:30 PM
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Ok now that I have read the thread...

You did get a scroe here....the 460 is a low heat chocked off version, but that can be fixed. Evilly.

First off, on the 460 you just cannot bolt on stuff to the motor. they went thru SO MANY engineering iterations that a lot of head/intake/piston/carb combos do not play well with others when broken up.

Fortunately this is the future and there are entire websites dedicated to the car itself, ford itself, the engine itself etc...you will be able to find the info.

Now for body parts, look up 'the lincoln farm' in calvin PA. I know they guy (sold him some lincolns, got my tow dolly from him) he is a resource for body and interior parts.

Mileage - its gonna be good at ridding the earth of fossil fuels. I would suspect it does worse than my EFI big block suburban...and they both have 3 speeds.

If you find a proper E4OD (93 and newer) you can retrofit it - it bolts right in - and get a PCM for it (the Baumannator comes to mind) You are gonna pay some money to do this, its not faint of wallet, but it will get you the best mileage you are EVER gonna get. If you buy magnetic fuel lines or air cleaner inserts I will beat you myself.

As for the motor, you cannot just fit EFI to it, the stock carb heads and pistons and cam it will run like crap. You need to do a lot of work to go that route, then any EECIV ECM programmed for your axle ratio and tweec the fuel curve.

So, based on any budget, any engine mods are gonna be in the carb arena. Finding the form police package parts for the year - unobtanium.

since the exhaust is on the driveway surface ANYWAY, bend a couple downpipes and rig in some duals with 2 cats (gotta have them, dont care about your state law, federal law, if it had a cat then, it must now, but it can be a modern one)

If you can find a huge plenum huge snorkled 4v air cleaner assembly (might know of one locally) then install that. then you will get all the hp you are from that motor without mechanicals and maximize its efficiency. a 4bbl? not without other engine work - all it will do it dump more fuel down the pipe.

other things...the dura spark is pretty good ignition, you can get DS2 compatible coils, 7mm good wires and by all means re-hose the motor and PAY ATTENTION to the choppers and ported vacuum switches - all are available, and they actually do work pretty well.

I noticed talk about the radio - heck with esr meters, just recap with 25v units and be done with it - they were not rocket science. if you ever get east to carlisle (like ford nats, spring, fall etc) there are guys there besides myself who fix them on the spot, or at least a few days later. some even have remand units.
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