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  #16  
Old 10-15-2011, 07:23 PM
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timmy timmy is offline
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well i got a total of 16 caps and replaced them and got no more hv then i had befor so now im really at a loss as to where to go from here. i was thinking the horiz oscillator tube 6cg7, the resistors and caps around that area, would this possibly be a cause for low hv. the cathode current on both horiz tubes are where it should be.bright down is 16kv bright up 10kv alittle lower to clear the screen is 12kv much to low. tried 2 new horiz output tubes and a vert output tube rectifier tube and hv regulator tube and still no difference in the hv, still to low.this is baffling because certain things removed to check hv usually raises the hv but nothing at all raises it.resistors i checked so far are right on where they should be. the remaining tubes in the chassis check very good so if anyone out there has any idea what i may be overlooking or what i should be looking at i would sure love to here from you,lol,lol because at this point i dont want to give up. i think if the fly was bad or going bad then with the high voltages in the fly it would have self distructed by now and the cathode current would have been threw the roof if shorted but its not. HELP.............
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  #17  
Old 10-16-2011, 04:37 AM
ctc17 ctc17 is offline
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i know the set, person not know how it so good but now the crt is ok so i want check the if and see if the hv is messing up the wiggly convergence sides and know that person that had it would not want to let it not converge unless the flyback is bad and the solid state means tubes are ok but not needed and the hv will be ok as long as the if is aligned with the regulator so i want to get it to recap and check all the resistors also because I have been told they effect the flyback circuit since its all enter relatated and so you need to check the coils for leakage and other stuff that the transistors are not shorted but can be if the diodes are open or closed and so the shorts in the tubes on the crt are always a good place to start afte checking the disk caps formica like used in the kitchen floor but that builds up static that cans zap and diode and make it closed before checking so you need to not step on the rubber mat on the kitchen lastly but before and make sure you use a ungrounded soldering iron on the wires next to the transistors or get new tran sistors from moyers first becasue the can short and ruin the alignments done on the hv regulator currrent resistor bridge that is use for the focus and can make the crt glow if not grounded to the shorts but before doing that the grids should be cleand to not overload the yoke drive to the horz hold pot unless thats not tested last.
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  #18  
Old 10-16-2011, 06:53 AM
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well one problem here is there is no transistors in this set a all, all tubes.the weird thing is the set works good but that left side converge, the twistd lines and with different pictures that pass that area you can see the colors are mixed up there. im still checking resistors and all are showing right on and there are a few diodes and they check out as well. well im trying not to throw my hands up because this is very frustrating, this loss of hv could cause this much headache both to the set and to the one trying to troubleshoot it.
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  #19  
Old 10-16-2011, 05:36 PM
ctc17 ctc17 is offline
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does it work when you got it?
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  #20  
Old 10-16-2011, 05:52 PM
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yes it did but had the hv issue and the converge issue, nothing changed with it since i got it.
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  #21  
Old 10-16-2011, 08:58 PM
ctc17 ctc17 is offline
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and you have suggested voltages that are spost to be on the grids of the output tubes? minus something or whatever it is? you can try unplugging the convergence and see if it goes up. one good thing to know about yourself is your are only a good as your test equipment to test yourself. you seem to invest in many lots of parts that are not bad and you could put that money into a scope and an eye type capacitor tester then you would have the experience and enjoyment of finding the bad capacitor. you dont need super fast scope or expensive because old tv shops going out of need to fix old tvs so they have lots of old things to test them.
you could find a way to put pictures in the site so we could have visual help you. if you look at your time as worth #5 per hour and you spend so many hours to replace capacitors that money could have gone to the scope to prove they were good before you changed them. i have lots of tvs and videos that i fix the tvs, you can view them and get an idea of problems like that. motorola had their own weird designs that were good but had parts that werent standard like couplets with the parts in ceramic chip with paint. i have black and white motorola i have been working on and when i put the couplet in the freezer the set is working now for several weeks. it could be the flyback if one of the parallel coils is open in the primary most of the time each coil in the primary has 2 or 3 wires tied together to handle the current if that goes open then the ability to carry current goes down it would be very helpfull to post the schematic for us to even if you have to go to kinkos for the scanner
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  #22  
Old 10-17-2011, 06:07 AM
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ok ill try unplugging the converge coils and see if anything happens here. i did already unplug the yoke and the hv dropped down. i also have in the sams the ohms readings for the fly so i could take that on and compare ohms on the fly maybe ill get an idea if there is anything going on with the fly itself.i checked cathode current again and its where it should be.
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  #23  
Old 10-18-2011, 11:36 PM
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zenith2134 zenith2134 is offline
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maybe i missed this, but did you ring test the flyback?

After all your efforts, i hope you get this going...also it has a nice cabinet
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  #24  
Old 10-19-2011, 05:02 AM
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no i didnt ring test it, i dont have the means to do so.right now it works great but the hv is not right and there are little things that im sure will clean up with the proper hv present.
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