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  #16  
Old 02-20-2017, 10:28 AM
WISCOJIM WISCOJIM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
Seems like a little peer-pressure.
Reminds me of the Eddie Murphy routine about the ice cream cone.
" I have a CR70 and you don't".
I bought one a while back, because I was starting to feel inferior to the rest of the group here.
Now you need to get the Sencore CR7000 to keep up with some of us!

Actually I'm not a fan of the Sencore CR70 for testing color CRTs. For testing color tubes I prefer the testers that have separate meters for each gun as they give you a better indication of comparable warm-up speed, weak guns, maximum emissions readings, life test inconsistencies, etc. Therefore I'd rather test with a B&K 467 or 490, RCA WT-333A, Heathkit IT-5230, the REM, Beltron testers, etc. There is probably no quicker tester to use on old roundie color CRTs than the Beltron units.

And even though I do have the CR7000, I prefer to watch a metered display rather than the often undefinable rows of LEDs, so it rarely gets used.

.

Last edited by WISCOJIM; 02-20-2017 at 10:32 AM.
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  #17  
Old 02-20-2017, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
Seems like a little peer-pressure.
Reminds me of the Eddie Murphy routine about the ice cream cone.
" I have a CR70 and you don't".
I bought one a while back, because I was starting to feel inferior to the rest of the group here.
The CR-70 has been on my list for a while (that demonstration I mentioned was...Hmm...6-7 years ago ). Was always too broke/cheap for one, and my B&K 466 has proved to be an accurate, comfortable and user friendly rig....Heck on all ,but CRTs with odd focus/G1/heater voltages, screw the set up manual, all you need is the right adapter and the knobs practically set themselves....If I had a monkey, a bunch of different testers, and a room full of CRTs that needed testing I'd give the monkey my B&K and tell him to have fun.
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  #18  
Old 02-20-2017, 11:30 AM
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I just gave the CR70 a real life test by opening up a 2006 Durabrand TV that was dumped upon me, and unfortunately, the A34KPUO2XX was not in the book. I looked at the universal adapter, and saw some numbers that I think might correspond to the pins. I don't have a manual, and the abbreviated instructions don't address the universal adapter.
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  #19  
Old 02-20-2017, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WISCOJIM View Post
Now you need to get the Sencore CR7000 to keep up with some of us!

And even though I do have the CR7000, I prefer to watch a metered display rather than the often undefinable rows of LEDs, so it rarely gets used.

.
Is the CR7000 for sael?
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  #20  
Old 02-20-2017, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TUD1 View Post
I just gave the CR70 a real life test by opening up a 2006 Durabrand TV that was dumped upon me, and unfortunately, the A34KPUO2XX was not in the book. I looked at the universal adapter, and saw some numbers that I think might correspond to the pins. I don't have a manual, and the abbreviated instructions don't address the universal adapter.
That TV ought to be good for a satisfying pop when dropped from a considerable height.
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  #21  
Old 02-20-2017, 06:10 PM
WISCOJIM WISCOJIM is offline
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Originally Posted by TUD1 View Post
Is the CR7000 for sael?
No, it's not. And if it was it would be more than $500.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...p2045573.m1684

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  #22  
Old 02-20-2017, 07:14 PM
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I think you'll do a-ok with the CR70. It may not have three gauges but it's not like speed matters anymore. Test enough delta tubes and and you'll only have to look at the book briefly if at all in most cases. I'd say your CR70 was a fairly decent bargain, many sellers really try to soak for them.

By the way, try an arts and crafts supply store for the foam.

Last edited by Jon A.; 02-20-2017 at 11:55 PM.
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  #23  
Old 02-20-2017, 11:17 PM
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Just found the CR70 manual online. Printed out all 55 pages, hole punched them, and put them into a 3 ring binder. Now I have some nice reading material for school.
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  #24  
Old 02-21-2017, 10:06 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Originally Posted by TUD1 View Post
I cleaned the CR70 as much as I could, and it actually cleaned up well. I went to Lowe's to try to find plastic feet for the bottom, and nobody had any idea what I was talking about. I tested it out, and aside from the fact that you have to change the settings for each color, I like it a lot.
Look in the closet or cabinet hardware area.
I bought, what they referred to as sliding closet door bumpers at a hardware store. They looked like rubber feet, but they were white. The screws, they included were wood screws. I used 6/32's.
BTW, my CR70 was missing a foot as well. I looked through my hardware and found one that was close in size.
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  #25  
Old 02-21-2017, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
BTW, my CR70 was missing a foot as well. I looked through my hardware and found one that was close in size.
Man, this is an epidemic! My good one was missing a foot and I think my parts unit was as well. Its case was in rough shape; bashed in on top, rusty hardware. I trashed it some time ago, keeping some parts for the good one.
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  #26  
Old 02-21-2017, 01:39 PM
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Lots of feet on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...ds=rubber+feet

not affiliated,
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  #27  
Old 04-01-2017, 09:32 AM
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dtvmcdonald dtvmcdonald is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TUD1 View Post
I cleaned the CR70 as much as I could, and it actually cleaned up well. I went to Lowe's to try to find plastic feet for the bottom, and nobody had any idea what I was talking about.
Neither Lowe's nor Menards (the latter usually more likely) had "plastic feet".
No idea what they were.

But Menards had "furniture slides", a very large display. Amongst them
were plastic feet of all descriptions, also a large selection.

What Lowe's does have is a large selection of misc hardware stuff that
we need, especially for boatanchors. Cotter pins, standoffs, those clips that
hold shafts in place, nice 4x4 inch sheets of metal, etc. They are in the drawers
under the bolts and nuts, look in "automotive" drawers there too. (Edit: By "there" I mean
under the bolts and nuts. If you need odd hardware, try there first. Don't believe
the drawer labels, check everything at at least once to get an idea.)

Last edited by dtvmcdonald; 04-01-2017 at 09:42 AM.
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  #28  
Old 04-01-2017, 09:54 AM
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dtvmcdonald dtvmcdonald is offline
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I have one in the mail. A separate order of eleven unused sockets, the universal
clipon, and manual arrived yesterday. Most sockets look overly modern. There
are duplicates so I would be amenable to giving a couple away at the ETF
convention. The manual is not quite "Conceptual Framework of Quantum
Field Theory", which is my bedtime reading these days, but its the sort of thing
you really do have do study all the way through.

One thing bothers me about "rebuilding" color tubes: the filaments are all
in parallel, so if it overheats one it overheats all. I would have no reticence
trying it on my 15GP22's red gun alone, but I worry about hurting the two good guns.
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  #29  
Old 04-01-2017, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtvmcdonald View Post
One thing bothers me about "rebuilding" color tubes: the filaments are all
in parallel, so if it overheats one it overheats all. I would have no reticence
trying it on my 15GP22's red gun alone, but I worry about hurting the two good guns.
I don't know if this would help, but the green gun in my Electrohome had drifted slightly out of balance with the others so I gave it a gentle jolt and brought it back up to snuff. It's been a couple of days and it still looks good. The picture had a slight yellowish tinge when I first started it but that quickly vanished.
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  #30  
Old 04-03-2017, 05:06 PM
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dtvmcdonald dtvmcdonald is offline
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I got my CR-70 today. If it is working correctly, only one out all my non-electrostatic
guns is actually good: the blue gun of my 15GP22 tests perfect. Its green gun
is a bit lacking in cutoff but emission is fine. My 10BP4 and 12LP4 both test
bad in cutoff and the 12LP4 is also a bit poor in emission. The red gun of the
15GP22 is abysmal in cutoff but about 3/4 of the way to good in emission.
This proves that the tube is indeed bad bad bad.

I'm surprised that the 12LP4 sold to me by the ETF tests poor to bad.
I tested both 5BP4s I have that are not in a TV. I don't know
what the cutoff is supposed to be, so I estimated it at 8 volts from the
spec that the "visual" cutoff should be 1 to 3% of the G2 voltage
(set at 415 v) . This proved roughly correct for both tubes,
which both tested borderline emission, though the ratio was
what I expected from use in my TT-5.

Last edited by dtvmcdonald; 04-03-2017 at 05:09 PM.
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