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  #16  
Old 01-01-2016, 06:02 PM
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Restoring an admiral c322
 
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The longest I ran it was for about 4-5 mins this was when I could get a nice bright raster. I noticed an 80uf sprague atom was tacked on to the existing 80uf section in the filter capacitor. That isn't good since the original capacitor could mess with the tacked on 80uf. I also noticed that another filter cap was leaking a bit of PCB infused gunk out of one section. This set needs a nice full recap and that is what I plan on doing before I power up the set again. Will create a separate thread about this set soon. At least I know my 21ax is good!
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  #17  
Old 01-01-2016, 09:50 PM
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Probably not related, but when I first brought home my ctc-5 it worked okay. The next day I couldn't get a raster. It took me a long (really long) time to figure out what had happened. There is a shield attached to the underside of the chassis and when I took it off there were "crispy critters". A cap/resistor that had shorted. Again, probably not your issue, but don't forget to look under that shield.
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  #18  
Old 01-05-2016, 09:56 AM
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I'm running, and working on, a CTC-7 with an original CYP22 in it.

When it's warming up, I get a momentary glow of blue in the neck of the CRT just as high voltage comes up. It's always gone before the screen lights.

The 3A3, which is an original with the set glows blue for just a moment around the gap between the plate and cathode.

This set is almost totally original... a total of 2 tubes replaced by me.

Perfectly normal for me over the years.
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  #19  
Old 01-05-2016, 09:49 PM
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I had a CTC-31 with an intermittent connection in the video output section. When it would lose the video the neck of the crt would glow bright purple. The crt was fine.
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  #20  
Old 01-06-2016, 06:57 PM
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Almost all 4 filter caps were completely fossilized. I restuffed the cans and now I have no HV with the chassis on the bench out of the cabinet. Dont see the 3a3 or the 1V2 glowing. everything else seems to be OK. No magic smoke just no HV at all I cant even hear any sort of high voltage whine from the flyback. I have been reading over the schematics and I cant seem to figure this out.
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  #21  
Old 01-06-2016, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwizzyMan View Post
Almost all 4 filter caps were completely fossilized. I restuffed the cans and now I have no HV with the chassis on the bench out of the cabinet. Dont see the 3a3 or the 1V2 glowing. everything else seems to be OK. No magic smoke just no HV at all I cant even hear any sort of high voltage whine from the flyback. I have been reading over the schematics and I cant seem to figure this out.
Probably won't do much HV wise without the yoke hooked up (The sweep circuits go out of tune without the yoke, and RCA often put jumpers that complete the HV B+ wiring in the yoke plug to prevent sweep circuits from running without it connected). Reconnect the yoke, then if it still ain't producing HV make sure the bias voltages on the Horizontal output tube are correct.
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  #22  
Old 01-06-2016, 07:32 PM
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Tom's right, RCA's and probably others won't work with the yoke disconnected. I made an octal jumper plug to replace the yoke when I run sets on the bench, just for that reason. You can make one yourself, just break any useless octal tube and harvest the socket. Remove the remnants of the old lead wires, and jumper pins 3 and 7 together. Works on all RCA chassis CTC-2 through CTC-5. CTC-7 and later had spade connectors for the yoke, so the horizontal sections will run without jumpering anything.
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  #23  
Old 01-06-2016, 07:41 PM
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That did it. Thanks Nick! 6BK4 now has its spooky green glow again!
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  #24  
Old 01-08-2016, 04:53 PM
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Changed the damper and H-out and now when hv comes up I get a bunch of weird sounds from the flyback lower pitched squeals. I put the original tubes back in and I still have this issue. Is the flyback going bad or is there arcing somewhere possibly.
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  #25  
Old 01-08-2016, 05:01 PM
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The yoke which is a coil, makes up a tank circuit with a capacitor that makes up part
of the B+ Boost, and load on part of the flyback. All of these are tuned. Jumping
a short across the coil on the yoke surly has an effect on the rest of the sweep
circuits. Even if some have jumped something and not had anything go wrong, I would
say it's not a good idea..... Especially if you are trying to troubleshoot something in
that area of the set....

For your problem, you need to check to be sure items in the area are working
as best you can... Voltages at the different points on the picture tube. (Bias -
Gx pins, Focus, HV, Horiz output tube Cathode current in range, sweep circuits
working, etc. )

.
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  #26  
Old 01-08-2016, 05:06 PM
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Restoring an admiral c322
 
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But I find it odd that it would just now start this...
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  #27  
Old 01-08-2016, 05:58 PM
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Squeals could be arcing, but also could be the H oscillator not running properly. An oscilloscope is really useful for checking this out.
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  #28  
Old 01-08-2016, 08:20 PM
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Turns out the the new 6CG7 horiz osc had a short in it and so did the new damper. Replaced those with the originals and got my HV back. Is it normal for the HV to only measure 4-6 kilovolts without the crt or yoke plugged in? I am running the chassis on the bench.
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  #29  
Old 01-10-2016, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwizzyMan View Post
Is it normal for the HV to only measure 4-6 kilovolts without the crt or yoke plugged in? I am running the chassis on the bench.
I have no idea, but I'm not surprised. Running without the yoke doesn't seem wise, as the system is tuned to resonate one half cycle during retrace with the yoke connected, and it's hard to tell if disconnecting will put less or more stress on the horizontal output and damper. I think it would be worth the effort to make extender cables.
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  #30  
Old 01-10-2016, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old_tv_nut View Post
I have no idea, but I'm not surprised. Running without the yoke doesn't seem wise, as the system is tuned to resonate one half cycle during retrace with the yoke connected, and it's hard to tell if disconnecting will put less or more stress on the horizontal output and damper. I think it would be worth the effort to make extender cables.
I agree. As someone who has run a CTC-15 without the yoke I can say that it will loose more than half it's HV without the yoke connected (and that should approximately go for the CTC-5 too). Like o_t_n, and I said earlier the yoke is part of a tuned circuit (the horizontal stage), so do not expect it to work correctly without the yoke.
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