#76
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ive never a a set go with bad caps when i used it ive had tubes go out when i was watching it, but never caps in the 2 years ive been doing this
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Looking for zenith cobramatic parts -johnny the raster master! |
#77
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That's just stupid.. Capacitors go out more than tubes.. Tubes are in a vacuum.. Capacitors aren't and they DRY up!
2 years you've been doing this, and you're already this stubborn? Good luck with frying nice old TV's. Just because someone else does it, doesn't mean it's right. |
#78
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capacitors are the number one thing in new or esp. old equitment that fail ,they can become leaky ,shorted,open,change value,become resisted ,they can cause intermitent problems, can cause unfiltered voltage's or in blocking aplacation's to damage semiconductor's or electron tube's . the old can type multi side electrolytic dry up ,are internaly leaky ,most of the time they are in a open condition. the same with the wax paper caps they failed back in day on regular base's heat & wax dont mix , im not a fan of reforming either if its bad replace it ,to say you have never had to replace a cap before or your grandpa doesnt like giving out parts when the set works ,is kinda a mystery.
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#79
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I'm going to say this. This picture says it all.
This TV is from 2008: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/blowncap.jpg And that capacitor, caused this giant problem in the video processing chip: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../blownchip.jpg Yea. So, REPLACE THOSE CAPS! |
#80
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Audiokarma |
#81
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GREAT pic of "look for any that look swolen...or are sitting oddly on the board" I had posted in another thread about a generic 5" set (forget where I posted that).
Your pic is a GREAT example of pretty much BOTH of those conditions. It's too bad only really these type of electrolytics do this very obvious fail. The rest....I am sorta having to GUESS..since I do not yet have a capacitor checker. Is an "ESR" meter really even sufficient to test the "big" caps? I ask...because I have seen that in order to check a cap correctly, you have to be able to CHARGE it to it's rated voltage. No way the little ESR meters I see with (I assume a 9V battery) can do this? I would get one for pretty much MOST the little solid state stuff I play with...but it seems not sufficient to have even a "good" meter with a capacitor checking section on the dial. Unless of course...I am wrong. Most the little "micro" sets I work with have electrolytics (just like these in most cases)...rated to maybe 16v-50v or so. Only place I have been running into "big boy" caps...are the big old Sony solid state sets ("big" being relative....since my "big" sets are 9" sets). The Sony sets with these bigger caps almost ALWAYS exhibit linearity and horizontal stability problems. I tend to recap them in a "shotgun" fashion without being able to really check 'em.
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My current "holy grail" is trying to get enough parts together to get a Singer TV6U going. Been kicking my ass for nearly a year now :-P |
#82
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Seriously, you need to replace the old electrolytic caps. They cost a lot less, and are easier to obtain than, a power transformer. Even the big multisection cap cans. You can use individual single unit caps to replace them. But don't just solder the new caps across the old caps, that won't protect you if the old caps short out (this is the failure mode to fear, this is what will ruin the power transformer). I've taken a hacksaw and cut the old can cap just above the crimp bulge (this is where the rubber gasket seal is housed), removing the old cap can and guts, and Ive drilled small holes thru the gasket and passed new cap leads from above to the terminals below. Some people will go to the trouble of carefully tucking the new caps inside the old can (after the guts are pulled out (nothing overly toxic, but don't eat it and wash your hands afterwards)) but I've just had the new caps out in the open (but take care to be sure they can't flop around and short out to something).
Flybacks and yokes and CRTs are also hard to find replacements for, so we also change out the caps around them as well. I know, as a kid you probably have no real money to get this stuff, but you risk ruining hard to obtain parts.
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#83
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"Face piles of trials with smiles, for it riles them to believe that you perceive the web they weave, and keep on thinking free" |
#84
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I agree with wa2ise, replace all electrolytic and paper caps. A while back, I restored a 1953 Emerson. There was one paper cap that was hard to get to. As it only had 4 volts across it(in the AGC circuit), I left it in. Guess what the cap failed in very short order, causing picture and sync overload. I had to go back in and replace it.
A more recent experience was with a 1958 RCA portable. In this case, there were some capacitors that were packaged like the modern orange drops, so I assumed they were still ok. No! I had to replace these to get correct vertical linearity and height(which would shrink as the set warmed up). I am not sure if they were paper inside or just heat damaged. Now I just replace these as well! 40 to 50 year old caps are no good. The technology to make good, long lasting capacitors was just not available then. (I am not sure it is available now for electrolytics!). |
#85
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Nope.. It just doesn't exist sadly.. Maybe longer than then, but not good.
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Audiokarma |
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